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#15 |
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See page 15: http://www.aemelectronics.com/Images...%2030-4900.pdf
Instead of a wire from an external boost controller, it would be a wire from the Haltech unit. The wiring is very simple to do, you shouldn't run into any issues. It's the most harmonious setup available that I know of. |
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#16 |
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Your stand-alone becomes your ebc, that controls the solenoid. I feel this is a great advantage because the tuner can control everything from one place. I'm not a tuner though, so I'm not sure how professional tuners feel about an ecu controlled boost controller vs external ebc.
It is correct to say that your AEM gauge can directly cut the boost, but you will still need a tune to run the solenoid at the pressure you want. Still should be miles cheaper than the stand alone ebc, and probably safer as it is integrated directly with your maps, so there is less opportunity for user error on having an incorrect map matched with a high boost setting. |
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#17 | ||
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Quote:
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Thank you so much for your insight, you have just saved me a crapload of cash! I will most likely go down your route with the boost solenoid
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#18 | |
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#20 | |
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Looks like you are good to go with an EBCS then:
http://www.haltech.com/product/plati...um-sport-1000/ Quote:
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| The Following User Says Thank You to King Tut For This Useful Post: | mswhong (03-21-2014) |
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#21 |
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I'm debating using my trusty old Blitz DSBC-R I've had for years or going with the Ecutek control. The benefits to the EBC is being able to switch or change boost without changing the map, shutting the car off, etc. The Blitz was always able to build boost faster and hold boost steadier than the solenoid I had on my WRX because it has two solenoids.
You can't do some trick stuff like limit boost by gear, RPM, etc. though with the simple EBC route though like you can with the ECU. |
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