Subaru BRZ STi Style Side Skirts (ABS)

[ucsmfu]

Originally Posted by OoLong

My body shop painter friend said any matte sealer from Rust-oleum or other major brand should work fine for simple body kit matte painting. He said it is good idea to seal because of the reason of easier to clean, avoid fading and longer color life.

which Sealer Spray are you using ?

thanks

[OoLong]

Originally Posted by ucsmfu

which Sealer Spray are you using ?

thanks

The paint products I used (from left to right: primer, paint, sealer)


Recommended sandpaper 220 grit, perfect!


Result:



Mistakes:


If this happens to you, be patient! Let it dry for at least 48hrs and then sand down the messed up part and respray. Do not, I repeat DO NOT try to remove the messed up paint shortly after you realize you've messed up. Wait. Sand. Spray.

Hope that answers your question.

[Vis101]

@OoLong Eager to see this installed. Let us know what you do for mounting the lip and spats. Cheers.

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[ucsmfu]

Originally Posted by OoLong

The paint products I used (from left to right: primer, paint, sealer)


Recommended sandpaper 220 grit, perfect!


Result:



Mistakes:


If this happens to you, be patient! Let it dry for at least 48hrs and then sand down the messed up part and respray. Do not, I repeat DO NOT try to remove the messed up paint shortly after you realize you've messed up. Wait. Sand. Spray.

Hope that answers your question.

damn, looks clean. I might actually sand mine, primer and use the paint spray again. Does it look like a matte black colour ? not too glossy right ? Can I directly sand over the painted part ? how many coats of each did you use ?

[OoLong]

Originally Posted by ucsmfu

damn, looks clean. I might actually sand mine, primer and use the paint spray again. Does it look like a matte black colour ? not too glossy right ? Can I directly sand over the painted part ? how many coats of each did you use ?

It is a matte finish with not much gloss at all. Yes you can sand your painted parts but make sure they've been dried for at least 48hrs before sanding (which I presume they are). For each part I've been doing at least 8-10 coats (I lose count sometimes because I'll be doing other stuff while waiting for the paint to dry) to make a perfect smooth finish.

All I have left are the side skirts and then installation time!

[ucsmfu]

Originally Posted by OoLong

It is a matte finish with not much gloss at all. Yes you can sand your painted parts but make sure they've been dried for at least 48hrs before sanding (which I presume they are). For each part I've been doing at least 8-10 coats (I lose count sometimes because I'll be doing other stuff while waiting for the paint to dry) to make a perfect smooth finish.

All I have left are the side skirts and then installation time!

wow, nice !! how many bottles of each have you used ? home depot ? for primer why did you use grey and not black ?

BTW, have you compared your painted replicas to the OEM one to see if the colours match ?

thanks

[OoLong]

Originally Posted by ucsmfu

wow, nice !! how many bottles of each have you used ? home depot ? for primer why did you use grey and not black ?

BTW, have you compared your painted replicas to the OEM one to see if the colours match ?

thanks

Got them all at HomeDepot.
1 bottle of primer (only need 1 coat per item, the flat-black also have some primer in them)
2 bottles out of 4 so far (front lip + rear aprons)

I couldn't find any black primer, all I found was white or grey. I choice grey because it will be black anyways for the top coat.

I haven't found anyone around my area with OEM, I think it is too damn expensive for pieces of plastic... Even the replicas are a little on the expensive side for me

Also, PRO TIP:

Apply the clear coat after all your pieces has been completely dried for at least 48hrs. I can't stress this enough. If you apply it just after the black dries then you will have a gray-ish color instead of more of a flat black.

[ucsmfu]

Originally Posted by OoLong

Got them all at HomeDepot.
1 bottle of primer (only need 1 coat per item, the flat-black also have some primer in them)
2 bottles out of 4 so far (front lip + rear aprons)

I couldn't find any black primer, all I found was white or grey. I choice grey because it will be black anyways for the top coat.

I haven't found anyone around my area with OEM, I think it is too damn expensive for pieces of plastic... Even the replicas are a little on the expensive side for me

Also, PRO TIP:

Apply the clear coat after all your pieces has been completely dried for at least 48hrs. I can't stress this enough. If you apply it just after the black dries then you will have a gray-ish color instead of more of a flat black.

got it, thanks OoLong, will re-do everything properly when the weather gets better

thanks

[uEih]

Originally Posted by OoLong

It is a matte finish with not much gloss at all. Yes you can sand your painted parts but make sure they've been dried for at least 48hrs before sanding (which I presume they are). For each part I've been doing at least 8-10 coats (I lose count sometimes because I'll be doing other stuff while waiting for the paint to dry) to make a perfect smooth finish.

All I have left are the side skirts and then installation time!

I'm really liking how it looks there, a little shine but not too much. If you didn't put the clear coat on would it have looked the same? I was planning to just sand without spraying primer, would primer help that much even if you sand?

[OoLong]

Originally Posted by uEih

I'm really liking how it looks there, a little shine but not too much. If you didn't put the clear coat on would it have looked the same? I was planning to just sand without spraying primer, would primer help that much even if you sand?

Having a matte seal on it will give you a little bit more sheen and depending on what angle you are looking at the piece, it can be a tad bit gray. I've decided not gonna do a clear seal and see how it goes. If it starts fading, I'll just paint it again.

[uEih]

Originally Posted by OoLong

Having a matte seal on it will give you a little bit more sheen and depending on what angle you are looking at the piece, it can be a tad bit gray. I've decided not gonna do a clear seal and see how it goes. If it starts fading, I'll just paint it again.

I'm a little torn between semi gloss and matte black, a lot of people did matte black but from what I read with the STi lip it's semi-gloss and I also wanted to get it as close to that as possible but no real world comparison to really base my decision on.

[OoLong]

So I am done painting all the parts and was install my kit this weekend. This is the only problem I ran into in terms of fitment issue... I took the weather strips off because the one that BaysonR provided was pos... What is the best way for me to hold that flap to the bumper? I was thinking just doing screws on the bottom part but I wanted to hear some 2nd opinions.

[Andrew025]

Never mind... Wrong picture

[Vis101]

@OoLong, I will be tackling the lip and rear spat install this weekend finally. Because I am doing so in part to cover up some cosmetic issues, I have no problem using screws. Curious to see more pictures, particularly of the spats from various angles. Thanks.

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