Full Blown Turbo Kit Owners Topic

[Ironsquid]

Originally Posted by CSG David

I have the standard trademark suggestion: if you want one of the best brake setups with stock calipers, rotors, and lines, run Project Mu 999 F/R and Torque RT700.

At 400hp, what tire sizes are you running front and rear? What's the tire compound? How often are you doing 120 to 0? 20 times in 10 minutes?

I could care less about the weight unless you're over 3300lbs "race" weight.

I'm looking to replace stock. I do car show events for good causes.

245 front 255 rear, Dunlop dii, maybe 10 times in 10 minutes.

Again, not competing for D1 or F1 here, just want something weekend warrior style that looks great too. Brake kit A is 2% better than Brake kit B would be overkill kind of thing.

[Dave-ROR]

Originally Posted by King Tut

This is the only other thread on FT86Club I can find with information on the Buddy Club Bee Bee Kay:

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=20591

Not much useful information in there. Why in the heck didn't they design the bridge to be removable? Properly engineered a bolted bridge is just as strong and makes pad replacement much easier.

Anyways, my questions on BBKs follow a pretty standard path...
-Consumables cost
-Quality of materials, what are the calipers made out of (6061 crap or a real alloy, etc), piston material, etcc
-Weight
-Minimum amount of brake required for the job I need it to do.

The only things that link answered is that the rotors add diameter by a fair amount increasing the distance of rotating unsprung mass from the hub, and aren't 32mm wide rotors. I'd rather increase cooling with deeper vanes then throw mass further out. Also the calipers are 6lbs. Nothing else is really answered in that thread unfortunately.

[King Tut]

Originally Posted by Ironsquid

I never said that directly, I said it seems like he's treating me that way. There is a huge difference.

The only real problem I have with this thread in the last few pages is someone that should be respected tell me that Brand X (because it really doesn't matter) is crappy because they are "beefy".

That's honestly bullshit. I'm not sure I like how Tut delivered the bullshit either.

Can I edit my post and take back the cheap and crappy words I used? I probably should not have attacked them as much as I did. I was really trying to get across the reason that they are "beefy". I had previously read that the calipers were cheap though, and I believe I have confirmed that. I really can't truly speak to how stiff or crappy they are though as I have no data. I apologize for that, and I will edit my posts.

[Ironsquid]

Originally Posted by Dave-ROR

FWIW, "beefy" doesn't really mean anything. Look at high end race calipers, they are rarely beefy in design and appearance. They are incredibly rigid by design and have as much weight as possible removed from them.

Again, not an attack but that's just not the way to ID a good brake caliper.

Awesome thanks, much better response.

[Dave-ROR]

Originally Posted by Ironsquid

I'm looking to replace stock. I do car show events for good causes.

245 front 255 rear, Dunlop dii, maybe 10 times in 10 minutes.

Again, not competing for D1 or F1 here, just want something weekend warrior style that looks great too. Brake kit A is 2% better than Brake kit B would be overkill kind of thing.

120-0 10 times in 10 minutes? Street redlight to redlight racing or something?

I know the looks part are a driver here but this question is important. Are the stock brakes with real pads and fluid failing you in whatever this behavior that you are doing is? I ask because if they are it really doesn't matter what brake kit you get if you don't care about consumables cost and such (within reason, I'm sure there are some BBKs out there that are actually worse than OEM). Just remember to keep bias in mind so you don't end up with braking performance that's worse than OEM (and yes it is possible).

[CSG David]

Originally Posted by Ironsquid

I'm looking to replace stock. I do car show events for good causes.

245 front 255 rear, Dunlop dii, maybe 10 times in 10 minutes.

Again, not competing for D1 or F1 here, just want something weekend warrior style that looks great too. Brake kit A is 2% better than Brake kit B would be overkill kind of thing.

Yea, stock calipers and rotors will work on that setup performance wise. I thought you were planning to run like 265/35/18 Nitto NT01 or Maxxis RC-1 at minimum with possible Hoosier A6s or Hankook C71 slicks and doing some 120 to 0 runs like 20 times in 10 minutes.

I have a few kits in mind that I know works. I've seen people use the Buddy Club BBKs before, but then again, I've only seen them use them once before tossing them for stock systems again. So you can kind of see where this opinion is formulated. BBKs are BBKs, but the bias of alibaba kits are very inconsistent. If it works for you then go for it, but I'd advise against it.

[OrbitalEllipses]

Just get the KSport BBK and call it a day already.

[King Tut]

Originally Posted by Ironsquid

Awesome thanks, much better response.

That was exactly the point I was trying to make. Dave definitely made the argument more clearly than I did, however.

[Dave-ROR]

Originally Posted by King Tut

I would hope he is never going 120 to 0 because if he is, then he has most likely hit the wall . With that being said, I would guess that Sebring is where he plans to track his car. The only really demanding brake zone is prior to the hairpin/hotel turn where it is quite bumpy and a very tough brake zone to get correct. The turn 17 area is normally split into a couple brake zones with trail braking being best utilized. @Dave-ROR can probably better speak to the brake zones in a BRZ at that track as I have only done it in my SpecE30.

T7 is the worse. However, too much brake on these cars just causes ABS to get pissed off. I have to be pretty gentle in parts there to keep ABS from activating.

T10 is a little hard on brakes also but with proper technique you can keep on them hard there without issue.

T17 is just T17. I do love making up 5+ car lengths on GT3s with Hoosiers through 17 lol

[SmsAlSuwaidi]

@CSG David loves Alibaba parts !

[CSG David]

Originally Posted by SmsAlSuwaidi

@CSG David loves Alibaba parts !

You wanted me to mention Alibaba all along huh?

[King Tut]

Originally Posted by CSG David

You wanted me to mention Alibaba all along huh?

That is @SmsAlSuwaidi 's brother right?

[SmsAlSuwaidi]

Originally Posted by King Tut

That is @SmsAlSuwaidi 's brother right?

hahahahaahahahh

ps: @CSG David im sure you dig the signature from our former conversion

[Ironsquid]

Originally Posted by Dave-ROR

120-0 10 times in 10 minutes? Street redlight to redlight racing or something?

I know the looks part are a driver here but this question is important. Are the stock brakes with real pads and fluid failing you in whatever this behavior that you are doing is? I ask because if they are it really doesn't matter what brake kit you get if you don't care about consumables cost and such. Just remember to keep bias in mind so you don't end up with braking performance that's worse than OEM (and yes it is possible).

I want to replace the stock calipers, for looks, but also have better stopping performance than stock. Done, that's it. We can move on.

I don't know why this became a braking knowledge shitfest. A vendor asked questions, I answered them to the best of my ability for what I think I might be doing 6 months to a year from now. Now I'm being grilled...

My car my rules simple as that, some people frankly don't give a shit what their car looks like, I'm not that way. I'm not a competition driver, I don't plan on jumping into points categories. The relevance of the questions being asked don't really pertain to the reason why I want to change from stock. Nor did I even ask for advice originally.

If you want to give me advice that's fine, but don't grill me about why/if stock braking isn't cutting it. I never said it was or wasn't.

I may sound like a **** there, but come on. And I apologize in advance.