CSG and RCE tag-team suspension Q&A thread! Ask us anything!

[7thgear]

Originally Posted by cdrazic93

I plan on keeping the car for as long as I can, 10+ years.

No the difference between the KW and the RCE T0 is about $200. They are both stainless.

The difference between the ST (corrosion resistant) and the cheaper of the two Stainless Steel options is still $600+ more than the ST coilovers, which are already corrosion resistant.

So basically its a savings of $600+ for the difference of SS vs. Galvanized steel.

if you plan on keeping the car for 10+ years, whatever coilover set you get, make sure you can service it locally and for a good price, cross country/continental shipping + labour fees will make an "affordable" coilover's cost skyrocket after 3-4 years of ownership.

[Lee358]

so i ended up with the KW v3s and raceseng camber plates. im going to have to learn how to tune the suspension in to what i want.

[cdrazic93]

Originally Posted by 7thgear

if you plan on keeping the car for 10+ years, whatever coilover set you get, make sure you can service it locally and for a good price, cross country/continental shipping + labour fees will make an "affordable" coilover's cost skyrocket after 3-4 years of ownership.

What is the general time at which an aftermarket coilover should be serviced at? xx,xxx thousand miles?

[Malt]

Originally Posted by cdrazic93

Basically it's $1,699 for the T0's $1,499 for the V1's and $850 for the ST's.

Yes, I'm aware of the prices. I have a set of T2's on my brz. My point is do want to spend more money now and get a better product or spend money later replacing a lesser set of coils? It really boils down to what your budget is and what you intend on doing with the car.

[Calum]

Originally Posted by Malt

Yes, I'm aware of the prices. I have a set of T2's on my brz. My point is do want to spend more money now and get a better product or spend money later replacing a lesser set of coils? It really boils down to what your budget is and what you intend on doing with the car.

Why not a fixed perch? Koni, B8, B6, and the forth coming GT Worx, would all be in the right price range, and would likely give you the DDability with decent improvement for autocross.

[FastWhite]

Thanks for all the replies.
The final answer IS "B6".
Don't want to mess with a custom shim. I do not want to go to STX this year. For I am having loads of fun right now.
Being competitive in our area. Usually take top spot and top twenty or so pax. Got right courses and excellent drivers.
Makes me concentrate on driver skills. And with an automatic any AT mods, cooler, stall convertor & valve body, gives me a straight ticket to H.... er CSP. can you say Miatas. Lol



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[cdrazic93]

Originally Posted by Malt

My point is do want to spend more money now and get a better product or spend money later replacing a lesser set of coils?

Both ST and RCE (minus the valving) are made from KW or KW parts or KW specs.

My budget was basically the most quality coilover system I could find for the lowest amount of money.

It will be my DD as well as some back country roads.

[Malt]

Originally Posted by cdrazic93

Both ST and RCE (minus the valving) are made from KW or KW parts or KW specs.

My budget was basically the most quality coilover system I could find for the lowest amount of money.

It will be my DD as well as some back country roads.

I'm hoping my replies are not coming across as rash (as that's not intended), but I'm aware that ST's and RCE's are made by KW. Your defined budget is pretty vague which is probably where the confusion is coming from. All of the coilovers you listed are great entry level coils with their own benefits. You need to decide on what is important to you. The T0's, like mentioned before, have custom valving done by RCE for the BRZ, which makes them worth the extra money. Also you get amazing support from Myles if needed. If you are looking at the ST's then you should probably also consider the B8's like @Calum suggested. The downside with them is you only get a 2 year warranty. Honestly, this is one of those area's where spending a little bit more up front can mean greater returns down the road. There is no way I'd buy a coilover with only a 5 year warranty if I planned on keeping a car for 10+ years when I could get something with a lifetime warranty for just a few hundred dollars more, especially if I lived in an area that used ANY salt at all.

[cdrazic93]

hmm, duely noted. I might have to wait to do the coilover, wheel and tire trio a little longer than I thought.

Btw my budget was 1k for coilovers. Something that can be driven daily and such. But it seems i need to up my budget if i want them to last.

[Calum]

Originally Posted by cdrazic93

hmm, duely noted. I might have to wait to do the coilover, wheel and tire trio a little longer than I thought.

Btw my budget was 1k for coilovers. Something that can be driven daily and such. But it seems i need to up my budget if i want them to last.

There's very little advantage to coilovers in that price range, other than the ability to play with corner weights and saying 'yeaaahh, I gotz them coiloverz' to your buddies. Maybe you should write down what you want the suspension to accomplish, and see what the experts suggest.

[cdrazic93]

Originally Posted by Calum

There's very little advantage to coilovers in that price range, other than the ability to play with corner weights and saying 'yeaaahh, I gotz them coiloverz' to your buddies. Maybe you should write down what you want the suspension to accomplish, and see what the experts suggest.

What about something like the Bilstein PSS 14s then? Those i considered for a while, but i was unsure of the monotube design

[7thgear]

Originally Posted by cdrazic93

What is the general time at which an aftermarket coilover should be serviced at? xx,xxx thousand miles?

you'll hear the 30k number being thrown around a lot

but a damper may need a rebuilding a week or two years later. All depends on its initial quality and how you used them.

[Calum]

Originally Posted by cdrazic93

What about something like the Bilstein PSS 14s then? Those i considered for a while, but i was unsure of the monotube design

Again, without knowing what you want them to do, no one can answer that. A fun daily driver setup is different from a quick autocross setup, which is different again from a fast track setup. This isn't a ten year old beater with dead dampers, its a brand new car with a competent stock setup.

What does the car do that you don't want it to do, or what would you like it to do better? What tires will you run? How much experience do you have? What are your roads and/or tracks like? Are you planning any functional areo mods? What do you plan to run for a brake setup? What type of balance do you prefer? What sway bars do you plan to run? Will you be using sways as a tuning tool or a roll mitigation tool? Do you prefer soft sidewalls and stiff dampers or vice versa? ....?

If you don't know and you goal is simply the status symbol just say so and those that have the experience can direct you to the right choice. Your not gonna be judged for not knowing, or for wanting a status symbol if you can admit it.

Sent from my samstone

[cdrazic93]

Originally Posted by Calum

Again, without knowing what you want them to do, no one can answer that. A fun daily driver setup is different from a quick autocross setup, which is different again from a fast track setup. This isn't a ten year old beater with dead dampers, its a brand new car with a competent stock setup.

What does the car do that you don't want it to do, or what would you like it to do better? What tires will you run? How much experience do you have? What are your roads and/or tracks like? Are you planning any functional areo mods? What do you plan to run for a brake setup? What type of balance do you prefer? What sway bars do you plan to run? Will you be using sways as a tuning tool or a roll mitigation tool? Do you prefer soft sidewalls and stiff dampers or vice versa? ....?

If you don't know and you goal is simply the status symbol just say so and those that have the experience can direct you to the right choice. Your not gonna be judged for not knowing, or for wanting a status symbol if you can admit it.

Sent from my samstone

In short; i simply have no fucking idea what im doing lol

Ill answer your questions pp though,

-My roads are bumpy, but not like LA bumpy.
-I want new coilovers that dampen harder and are stiffer, but nothing like a KW CS coilover.

Eventually I will go turbo (AVO kit) so I want something that will be able to handle the added power with out loosing grip anywhere. Something that will plant the car and turn it on a dime.

-I will be running Pilot SS 255/35/18 on some RPF1 18x9.5
-I havent really considered functional aero mods, only a front lip difuser, possibly.
-As for balance, I would like something in the neutral zone.
-I havent figured out my swaybar options yet
-I would be using sway bars as a roll mitigation tool
-I would say yes, softer side walls and stiffer dampers although im not sure how soft the 35 will be on the Pilots.

Im still in the stage of just figuring out which coils are right for me. My last car had some lowering springs on it, some progressive Eibachs around 3.6k up front and 3k in the back. I could go stiffer, but i would like to not jar out my teeth

Hopefully that gives you an idea of what im looking for!!

Edit: revelation i think i just listed off the features of the T0 or T2...