Minimal safe setup for a track day/hpde?

[Tt3Sheppard]

When I ran a track day at limerock we got about 4 sessions each with a 45min session for the last one. That was with a 07 civic si with stop-tech pads and rotors. Pads were quite worn after the day since I was a little brake heavy in the beginning learning the track and the lines etc. If the track is brake heavy I would at the very least invest in some moderate race pads and dot 4 fluid. It's better to be safe than sorry.

[Skyllz]

Like mentionned up here.

Pads, fresh high performance brake fuild of your choice(I'm partial to ATE Blue/Gold in rotation to flush).

Otherwise, SEAT TIME!!! The rest will follow.

[Felix7007]

When MotorTrend took the BRZ to Laguna Seca for best driver's car of 2012, they noted how the brakes were almost gone after just one lap.

[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=38WqRJf7So8"]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=38WqRJf7So8[/ame]

I upgraded my brakes to Cryo-Treated Slotted rotors on all 4 corners and carbon ceramic pads all 4 corners.

http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/brake...3&autoModClar=

http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/brake...3&autoModClar=

The brake upgrade worked flawlessly

[Dave-ROR]

Holy old thread bump batman.

[dradernh]

Originally Posted by Dave-ROR

Holy old thread bump batman.

No kidding.

Regarding braking, different tracks have been mentioned - some tracks will use brakes up much faster than others. Of those mentioned, Summit Point and Lime Rock Park are pretty easy on braking systems.

The biggest thing with novice drivers is how they use the brakes: many start out using them in ways that get them unnecessarily hot, and it does take some instruction to make the transition to a quite different way of braking.

--------------

The following came from the current issue of Ross Bentley's weekly Speed Secrets newsletter, which is always chock-full of very useful information. This week's issue was devoted to braking, and I'm sharing a part of it here. I have no affiliation - I'm just a satisfied subscriber, and I'll forward a copy to anyone that PMs me their email address. (Hope it isn't a violation of the rules here, plugging one of the best communicators in motorsport!)

"Braking is the aspect of driving that requires the most physical effort and practice if it is to be executed perfectly. It isn't just a question of courage: above all you need to be aware of the limits of the car and of the circuit. This is the only way to brake consistently on the limit yet with a certain degree of safety, without having to think constantly, 'I wonder if I'll get out of this...' "

-Ayrton Senna

Braking - where you start, the pressure you apply, how and where you release them - separates the consistent winners from the rest.


I don't know of a driver today, from novice performance driver to elite-level pro racer, who didn't at one point think that brakes were simply for slowing a car down.


One thing that drivers learn over time (and the very best learn a lot about), is that brakes are used for much more than slowing the car down. Primarily...

• Changing the balance of the car.
• Changing the direction of the car.

As a driver, as you progress and develop your skills, deliberately work on:

• The overall pressure you apply to the brake system.
• How quickly you ramp up to maximum pressure.
• When you begin to release brake pressure.
• How quickly, or the rate, that you release the pressure.

What? Not how late you can brake? Well, if you focus on the above, how late you begin braking will look after itself.

[YodrOne]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

...Even at 40F, the "cold" bite of race pads has always been greater than the bite of street pads.

Last weekend I had the unfortunate pleasure of driving my car from a track event in 33 degree weather with my race pads still on. It's not ideal by any means, but the car does stop just as well and it's not a safety issue. Simply didn't have time to swap before a big snow storm hit.

OP, to answer your question here's the setup I ran this weekend with which the car performed very well. I have fresh brake fluid, but didn't have a chance to install stainless lines due to a dealer f***up.

17x8 ANDROS Spec D MATTE (tirerack 18.5lb wheel)
Yokohama AD08R 225/45/18
Hawk DTC-60 race pads at all four corners
(Replaced all fluids with Redline product, but this isn't mandatory)

I would highly recommend Castrol SRF for brake fluid, and stainless steel lines. Even with the race pads my brakes were giving out towards the end of the session a bit, and it was all fluid/lines.

All of this was around $1.5k at tirerack and the car was an absolute blast. Much quicker than I expected it to be.

[YodrOne]

Haha, didn't realize this thread is from August! Oh well...

[FRSfan111]

Originally Posted by YodrOne

Haha, didn't realize this thread is from August! Oh well...

Of 2012 lol.
On topic though, my stock pads are so glazed they felt like ice after my first track event.

[Element Tuning]

Just make sure you match your brake pads to the tires you run. On stock tires I would think stock brake pads are more than enough and I would just flush the fluid with some good stuff.

I run DTC70 Hawk or Carbotech XP12 when I run slicks and they are great but they were too much for Hankook RS3s (was too easy to engage ABS due to how much bite they have).

Thanks,
Phil Grabow

[kavanagh]

In the spirit of old thread bumping, here's my 2 cents. (edit: turned into 3.5 cents)

Stock fluid, pads and rotors
Michelin PSS in 225/45-17
Drop in air filter

Went to my first HPDE1 event this weekend and ran all DE1 sessions both days plus let a FRS owning TT racer test drive my car in a DE4 session (with me as passenger) so he could play with the automatic tranny and I could learn some more. Earlier that day he had set a new track record in his own FRS for his TT class. This was at Firebird east track in Phoenix and he set a 1:04.4 if I recall. In my car he ran a 1:11.5, and thanks to watching him, by the end of the day, I ran a 1:12.9.


After about 120 track miles by a novice (me), my instructor, and a racer, the stock pads are still alright.

Pedal is a tad soft. Initial bite is lacking a little, but overall confidence is still there.

Plan on getting some street/track pads this week since my wife has her first HPDE1 event in three weeks. I got promoted to DE2 my first day, so we'll be sharing the car, and abusing her pretty well I'm guessing.

thoughts on XP8 versus HC800? or other options? I want to replace the street pads for sure and may eventually get a set of dedicated race pads, but probably not both before the next event.

[CSG Mike]

The XP8 is a better pad, IMO. I'd recommend you start with XP10 though; you'll outgrow the XP8 before you finish it off at the rate you're improving.

[kavanagh]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

The XP8 is a better pad, IMO. I'd recommend you start with XP10 though; you'll outgrow the XP8 before you finish it off at the rate you're improving.

Thanks Mike! I'll look into those!

[milhouse]

I am in the same boat with a two-day HPDE event coming up. First time, etc. Does anyone think upgrading to SS brake lines (Spiegler) are a worthwhile investment at this point? The car only has 4k miles on it, so I am leaning against it until there is an issue or I do more event, but I'd like some feedback.

Thanks.

[kavanagh]

From my experience last weekend, I wouldn't bother with it until you go test it stock and see how it is. I was blown away by the stock performance.

FWIW, I did put steel lines on my CBR1000RR and love the bite. I just prefer swapping bits after I've identified them as the weak link, and not my own ability.


Sent from a secret volcano base using trained sharks