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Engine, Exhaust, Transmission Discuss the FR-S | 86 | BRZ engine, exhaust and drivetrain.

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Old 02-20-2014, 05:57 PM   #29
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Oh you were knocking alright. No way you weren't. Thing is, most knock you can't hear, but knock detection does. When it gets to where you CAN hear knock in modern engines, you're probably about to get hosed.

And this car was meant to be run into high revs. Cruising is for sub 3k. Mid & upper band is above 3k.

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Old 02-20-2014, 06:24 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sshole View Post
Wants to throw money at car mods.

Can't buy the right gas.
LMFAO.

Dude just buy the FT86 CATTED UEL Header or the $1000 OFT + OFH combo. I'm planning to get the FT86 Catted UEL Header and a OFT later down the line. Don't buy a cat back first like I did. My current Cat back is quite loud imo but is still very daily drivable.
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Old 02-20-2014, 06:32 PM   #31
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Quote:
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On a serious note, a tune will help you with midrange power as well as top end. Lots of people are reporting that a simple tune can nearly eliminate that torque dip from 3500-4500 rpm. Tune + header will completely get rid of it.

I don't know about you, but most of my time in the BRZ is spent at 3000-4000 rpm and it hurts when I try to pass people on the highway.

If I REALLY need to pass, I just grab 4th, but I know what you mean. As I said before, I knew what I was getting with the car, and don't expect it to be a torque monster or v8-slayer.

Anyway, I think a tune is in the works eventually, but was trying to keep warranty in tact "just in case". Really just wanted a bit more bark to the car, so the few times that I DO get to drive it, I could enjoy the sound.

But I guess it's better to listen to Ron Swanson. Never half-ass two things; whole-ass one thing.
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Old 02-20-2014, 06:34 PM   #32
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IMO, if you can't run the minimum required fuel in the car than you shouldn't even consider modding.
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Old 02-20-2014, 06:37 PM   #33
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Hey I figured out multi-quote.

Quote:
Originally Posted by SirBrass View Post
Oh you were knocking alright. No way you weren't. Thing is, most knock you can't hear, but knock detection does. When it gets to where you CAN hear knock in modern engines, you're probably about to get hosed.

And this car was meant to be run into high revs. Cruising is for sub 3k. Mid & upper band is above 3k.
Yeah, again it was never a "OMG I can't afford the extra $$ for 93", but more of a "meh, doesn't seem like I'm losing anything, seems like a waste" test. Easy fix, will remedy at next fill-up.

And I agree about the ideal powerband. Since most of my mileage is highway, I sit in the ~3k range. It is fun to uncork 6k+ once in a while.

Quote:
Originally Posted by akahenry View Post
LMFAO.

Dude just buy the FT86 CATTED UEL Header or the $1000 OFT + OFH combo. I'm planning to get the FT86 Catted UEL Header and a OFT later down the line. Don't buy a cat back first like I did. My current Cat back is quite loud imo but is still very daily drivable.
I was reading about the OFH, and there was some concern about lack of flex joints on it, being UEL and all. I didn't get to finish the thread, but is this a real issue? I know most every header for flat-4s has flex built in, so is this how they can offer it so cheap?

But, I agree that after more thought, the RIGHT way to do this car is front to back. I just don't know that I want to do that YET. Which was why I was considering the cheap/easy route with the Berk kit. If that makes sense, anyway.
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Old 02-20-2014, 06:56 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FR-Slide View Post
I was reading about the OFH, and there was some concern about lack of flex joints on it, being UEL and all. I didn't get to finish the thread, but is this a real issue? I know most every header for flat-4s has flex built in, so is this how they can offer it so cheap?
A lot of aftermarket headers don't have flex joints. The hks, which is one of the top performers and top quality pieces, doesn't have flex joints. There's a huge debate on whether they're required or not, but hasn't been a problem thus far

Revworks also has a good rep and they don't have flex joints on their uel

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Old 02-20-2014, 06:57 PM   #35
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You want to keep your warranty intact? Yet you don't think it's worth it to put the proper fuel in it?

If you want to make sure any warranty claim you might have on your engine isn't denied, you'll put in the fuel the owner's manual & the gas door says you need to: MINIMUM 91, preferred 93 & up.

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Old 02-20-2014, 06:59 PM   #36
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If it's a daily driver, you definitely don't want a muffler delete with any other mods. Sure, you might gain a hp or 2 and lose some weight in the rear but you upset weight balance and only have one tip which doesn't look so good. The FT86Factory header is great both in performance, quality,etc. you can run a full exhaust with it and not get drone. It all depends on your catback. An invidia n1 will drive you crazy (pun intended) with a full exhaust and a q300 will give you no drone and will only be noticeable when you want it. Do some research. The header is definitely one if the best bang for the buck upgrades on this car. A header alone, chatted or not, will give you sound when you want it, no drone, will get rid of the torque dip, give you more power throughout the whole powerband, etc. I strongly recommend just getting the FT86 chatted if you want power, sound, drivability, no cel, no tq dip, and UEL.


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Old 02-20-2014, 08:45 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SirBrass View Post
You want to keep your warranty intact? Yet you don't think it's worth it to put the proper fuel in it?

If you want to make sure any warranty claim you might have on your engine isn't denied, you'll put in the fuel the owner's manual & the gas door says you need to: MINIMUM 91, preferred 93 & up.

I'm on my phone so if I make mistakes, blame Sportsguy83
Again, I ran 93 from when I got the car til a few months ago when I swapped over to 87 on a whim to test the difference, and never went back. When I picked the car up, dealer said to use 87.

And again, none of that really matters, since I can just switch back to 93 next time I need to fill up.

Quote:
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If it's a daily driver, you definitely don't want a muffler delete with any other mods. Sure, you might gain a hp or 2 and lose some weight in the rear but you upset weight balance and only have one tip which doesn't look so good.
There are a few dual-exit track pipes/deletes out there, which is what I was considering, but thanks for the feedback. Power gains/weight saving would be minimal I know, was really just after some sound and new/better looking tips to fill out the rear when this whole thread was started haha.
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Old 02-20-2014, 09:04 PM   #38
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Yeah the stock tips are terrible


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Old 02-20-2014, 09:07 PM   #39
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The dealer was grossly misinformed, then.

Good you're going to go back to using the good stuff. I don't advocate a tune except on e85 or 91/93 gas. Tunes can be good for improving drivability too on a stock exhaust.

Tune + header will totally eliminate the torque dip, also.
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Old 02-20-2014, 10:24 PM   #40
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It's in the owner's manual to use 93, or 91 if that's not available. . .

Kind of scary that a dealer would go against that. Might give you some recourse if it blew up and they are the ones who told you to (if they admit to it).
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Old 02-21-2014, 01:27 AM   #41
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K&N or other high flow filter ($40)
Buddy club spec II catback exhaust ($500)
Invidia catless resonated front pipe ($260)

It's going to be loud, but hopefully the resonated front pipe will help you out with drone/rasp. It'll be a very free flowing exhaust combo
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Old 02-21-2014, 08:03 AM   #42
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It's in the owner's manual to use 93, or 91 if that's not available. . .

Kind of scary that a dealer would go against that. Might give you some recourse if it blew up and they are the ones who told you to (if they admit to it).
To be honest, I haven't cracked open the manual except to find out how to fix the windows when they froze shut But yeah, that was my thinking about dealer responsibility if I ever had to make a warranty claim.

Quote:
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K&N or other high flow filter ($40)
Buddy club spec II catback exhaust ($500)
Invidia catless resonated front pipe ($260)

It's going to be loud, but hopefully the resonated front pipe will help you out with drone/rasp. It'll be a very free flowing exhaust combo
I've got a drop-in and tube, and removed the sound tube and resonators. Definitely a good and cheap fix.

You'd say go for catback and FP before header?
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