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| Scion FR-S / Toyota 86 GT86 General Forum The place to start for the Scion FR-S / Toyota 86 | GT86 |
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#15 | |
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#16 |
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Do you also expect your air intake temps to be the same as ambient? The pipe through which the air is traveling has been heated by the engine. When you first turn on your car, I guarantee it's damn near ambient coming out of your vents.
EDIT: To be clear - red is hot, blue is cold. |
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#17 |
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What is the ambient temp you experience this at?
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#18 | |
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Oh boy...we've had huge arguments on this forum about the "warm air from vents, even on full cold" issue. Some of the lesser intelligent posters insisted all cars do this, while numerous others(myself included) have never owned a car that did this and we aren't retarded. Vent on full cold always equaled cool/cold air inside, as expected...not on this car.(OF COURSE WE'RE TALKING ABOUT COOL WEATHER!) The only solution I have found is to tun the temperature setting all the way to hot, then turn the vent selector all the way over to one of the last 3 settings, any of the three that has the defog icon(the little windshield icon). Then turn the temp to cold and wait a few seconds, then return the vent selector back to the setting you want. 1) temp all the way hot 2) turn vent to 1 of the 3 defog settings(last 3) 3) temp back to cold, wait a few seconds 4) vent back to... It usually works. This is the result of a cheaply designed A/C system. And when the people come in claiming all their previous cars did this too, my response is that those were also cheaply designed A/C systems. Hondas haven't done this in the 20+ years I've driven them, so obviously an A/C system CAN be built/designed where warm/hot air doesn't come in when on the full cold setting...unless of course it is hot outside, not the 60F degree or less outside air we are talking about. Last edited by fistpoint; 02-17-2014 at 06:19 PM. |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to fistpoint For This Useful Post: | blunova (02-17-2014) |
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#19 |
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You realize defrost runs the A/C compressor, right?
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#20 |
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Of course, that's why it is important to use one of the last 3 vent settings to activate the process. Doing this somehow closes the "leak" that is allowing engine air instead of actual outside air into the vents and also obviously cools the air still inside the plumbing since the compressor has come on temporarily. I've been doing it for the last 2 months, it does work and something is definitely happening in the process. However, sometimes it requires a couple attempts, but when it works the air has clearly gone from warm to cold, and yes, the vent is now on a setting that does not have the compressor running. I only use the first three(face, face/floor, floor). In the other threads about this, the people that acknowledged the issue but didn't dismiss it like the foolish ones suggested a valve that isn't closing that is designed to prevent this. All that info coupled with my own experience since then suggests to me it's simply a shitty design in this vehicle and any vehicle that exhibits the same behavior. That and the simple fact that all my previous vehicles of the same make as well as all the other people who also never had this issue before on similar makes to my cars is all the evidence I need. Some cars do it, some don't. Those that don't simply have a better design. It shouldn't be an argument. We aren't retards who forgot to move the temp dial or didn't know that red is hot and blue is cold. It's the design, period. |
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#21 |
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My 19 year old Honda does this too.
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#22 | |
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No. That is not how EVERY CAR EVER is made, and I am not an idiot. My Ford Focus did not do this and that was a very cheaply made vehicle. This is one of the things that really bugs me about this car, because in the winter I like to get the cool fresh air from the outside without having to run the AC. OP, ignore these people telling you that you are an idiot, and this is how all cars work. It might be normal for some cars, but not all cars. I hear you. It sucks - but unfortunately that's how the 86s are
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| The Following User Says Thank You to blunova For This Useful Post: | dssence (02-18-2014) |
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#23 |
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I should add this: the trick isn't 100% effective during those few weeks/months we have in Texas where we used to drive with no compressor on because it was just barely cool enough to not need it. The solution unfortunately was to begin using the compressor sooner in the season than I'm used to(last 22 years).
Where this trick comes in useful now that I've had the car almost 1 year, is when it is actually cold outside(60F and under is cold by Texas standards). Without this trick we would be using the compressor when it's 60F outside, which is absurd. Shitty design overrides vent method during warm/hot climate. Vent method overrides shitty design during cool/cold climate. We win one, we lose one. |
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#24 |
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#25 | |
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By the way can you explain me more in detail the process. What should I do to get cold air blowing shifting the knob cold blue. And why is tihs going on. Didn't get it quite clear. Thanks ! |
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#26 | |
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#27 | |
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"So, @dssence, you can either open the window, turn on the A/C or ..... punch the recirc button, to shut off the vent (which helps somewhat)". I had a miata that did this same thing and in 88,000 miles, I couldn't get cool "fresh" air through the vents. I've driven my FR-S for about 8,000 miles and I can't figure out how to get cool "fresh" air through the vent system. I suggest you quit beating this dead horse/vent thing and get on with enjoying your fine machine...... ![]() humfrz |
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#28 | |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to w.k.s. For This Useful Post: | humfrz (02-18-2014) |
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