SCCA Solo C Street Discussion

[Ocala FR-S]

I am sorry if this question has been completely vetted. I realize the first post and many thereafter indicate that OEM Camber "Crash" Bolts are allowed in C Street. I have them and wouldn't want to lose them. However, as I resesrch, I still find ambiguous comments about requirements to maintain alignment within stock tolerances for Street Stock which would preclude the negative camber gains from crash bolts. Are the rules specific enough to remove doubt about whether or not crash bolts and 1.x negative camber gains are definitely allowed?

[xwd]

You can run as much negative camber as you want allowed by the modifications stated in the rules. There is no requirement to stay within factory spec, although with our cars you will be, the crash bolts don't buy you much.

[Sccabrz192]

Originally Posted by Ocala FR-S

I am sorry if this question has been completely vetted. I realize the first post and many thereafter indicate that OEM Camber "Crash" Bolts are allowed in C Street. I have them and wouldn't want to lose them. However, as I resesrch, I still find ambiguous comments about requirements to maintain alignment within stock tolerances for Street Stock which would preclude the negative camber gains from crash bolts. Are the rules specific enough to remove doubt about whether or not crash bolts and 1.x negative camber gains are definitely allowed?

13.8 Section E

I think your question is related to the last statement, but that is specific to OE allowances for slotting the strut hole ONLY when a max slot size is not specified. In that instance, you are not allowed to adjust outside OE tolerance range in that scenario.

In the previous sentences shims and specialty bolts as specified by the manufacturer are legal, even outside of the normal tolerance range. It's explicitly defined as legal.

[Ocala FR-S]

Originally Posted by Sccabrz192

13.8 Section E

I think your question is related to the last statement, but that is specific to OE allowances for slotting the strut hole ONLY when a max slot size is not specified. In that instance, you are not allowed to adjust outside OE tolerance range in that scenario.

In the previous sentences shims and specialty bolts as specified by the manufacturer are legal, even outside of the normal tolerance range. It's explicitly defined as legal.

That makes sense. Thanks. (and also to dwx).

[jam0o0]

Originally Posted by u/Josh

Any videos? That's a damn good performance on stock tires.

not that weekend. i have some from dec but i can't find a place to host them.

i went to nationals last year in a friend's FRS. got middle of the pack in RTR. i'd only driven an FRS with good tires twice when i went to nat's.

[Nm86]

I'm looking to get a sway bar, thinking whiteline simply because it seems to be the middle ground bar. I am looking at the 20 or 22 mm both adjustable. Everything I find says that they are both 118 on soft and 174% stiffer on hard. Am I missing something, how can two bars with different diameters have the same stiffness? If this has already been covered I apologize.

[Sccabrz192]

Originally Posted by Nm86

I'm looking to get a sway bar, thinking whiteline simply because it seems to be the middle ground bar. I am looking at the 20 or 22 mm both adjustable. Everything I find says that they are both 118 on soft and 174% stiffer on hard. Am I missing something, how can two bars with different diameters have the same stiffness? If this has already been covered I apologize.

I can't comment as to the 100% accuracy of the list, but the most definitive one available is here... this is based on individual conversations with the manufacturers and/or published information.:
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=49659

Whiteline
Solid
Front : 20mm, 22mm
20mm Fixed or 2 position in option,
Soft Setting - 118.5%
Hard Setting - 174%
22mm 2 position
Soft Setting - 212%
Hard Setting - 288%


But to answer your more general question... there are a few things that influence the bar rate...
1) Solid versus hollow (OD and ID both play a large role)
2) Material
3) link attachment distance from pivot point (this is how the "adjustable" bars work.)

So depending on the combination of the above, you can have different OD bars with same or similar rates... although that is not the case for the Whiteline options.

[Kido1986]

On a BRZ, I'd definitely go Strano for your bar. The whiteline may work alright on FR-S, with it's softer front springs needing more help (though I'd still go for Strano likely)

[Sccabrz192]

Originally Posted by Kido1986

On a BRZ, I'd definitely go Strano for your bar. The whiteline may work alright on FR-S, with it's softer front springs needing more help (though I'd still go for Strano likely)

I agree, in fact, I ordered my Strano bar yesterday

[AustinTX]

2nd event done. First event with a Strano front bar installed (thanks DWX). The car drove much better with the bar on. Finished 13th of 149 in PAX - https://axwaresystems.com/axorm/file...eb2014_pax.htm. Still a bit disappointed with the pace, as I'm getting stomped in X class (in which I have won the championship for the last 2 years).

The course was big power. I was rev limiting at the end of each fast section. Please feel free to critique anything you see. The biggest issue mentioned so far is that I could have went a little wider in the last sweeper and entered the final slalom faster. I was rev limiting for a good bit through the finish.
[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8Rx5qI6mEHE"]CS BRZ at SASCA 2/9/14 - YouTube[/ame]

[7thgear]

it would be nice to see hand movements, but otherwise my only advice is to work on your course memorization and planning

pretty much the entire run you're stuttering in your inputs, unsure of what to do next.

which leads to slightly missed apexes, which leads to less full throttle and less comitment to corners.

[simpleisbest]

Originally Posted by Sccabrz192

I agree, in fact, I ordered my Strano bar yesterday

I am preferring the Tanabe bar now. Almost same as Strano, but is a hair stiffer, has a more stock shape (no lower arm contact issues), and comes with welded locator collars. (Yes, I have tried both)

[AustinTX]

True, I need to find a better location to mount the camera. The car does have a significant tendency to grip/slip/grip through corners which looks really janky on the vids. While I am making minor course corrections, I'm not sawing on the wheel like the vid suggests

[des]

Looks terrific! You'll get a lot more comfortable now that the bar is on -- enough to push it like your STi eventually.