Innovate (Sprintex) Supercharger Owners Topic

[Ryan86]

I've changed all oils to fully synthetic engine 5W30, gear oils and diff oils Liqui Molly during my service at the time of installing SC.
OEM oils are good fully synthetic except for the Diff for some reason, it was semi synthetic.
I fitted the GReddy magnetic oil sump plug, was surprised what was stuck to after 7500km.

[whataboutbob]

Originally Posted by xxscaxx

I don't think anyone ever answered this question I brought up: You all still using the stock weight oil or have you moved to something different after supercharging?

I spoke to a Subaru tech at the autox this weekend and he said the 2014 forester with the boosted FA20 uses 5-30. That'll be what I run next. So far used 0-20 OEM and 5-20 RP.

[Ryan86]

My apologies we on 5w30 here in SA.
Toyota change the 0W20 to 5W30 at first service.

[DriftEm]

Originally Posted by xxscaxx

I don't think anyone ever answered this question I brought up: You all still using the stock weight oil or have you moved to something different after supercharging?

5W30

[Calum]

Originally Posted by whataboutbob

I spoke to a Subaru tech at the autox this weekend and he said the 2014 forester with the boosted FA20 uses 5-30. That'll be what I run next. So far used 0-20 OEM and 5-20 RP.

Can you ask him if the bearing clearances are the same between the engines?

[whataboutbob]

Originally Posted by Calum

Can you ask him if the bearing clearances are the same between the engines?

I see him infrequently. I'll try to remember.

I was talking to Mike @infamousperformance today about the boosted FA20 and he told me they had lowered the compression on the motor. He or someone else who has access to the data might be able to chime in.

[calispec]

I am going to throw in a little more of my opinion about oils here so take it for whatever it is worth. The first number in oil is some magic number that somehow relates to viscosity when the oil is somewhere near room temperature I believe. Maybe a little colder but is beside the point. Second number is the same except for when the oil is hot. The only way we get two different numbers for hot and cold is with additives. Lucky for us, they have been getting better with synthetics and have achieved a pretty large spread ie 0w-30. 0 (something) when it is cold and 30 (something) when it is hot.

Okay get to the point.
The thinnest oil we can make is still wayyy too THICK at room temperature. So we want oil that will give us what the engineers designed for at operating temperature and as thin as possible at room temperature. I don't care what number you decide to run for the hot number but you should run the smallest number "0" for the cold number.

That's my .02 (something) the internet told me all of this somewhere.

[Calum]

Originally Posted by calispec

I am going to throw in a little more of my opinion about oils here so take it for whatever it is worth. The first number in oil is some magic number that somehow relates to viscosity when the oil is somewhere near room temperature I believe. Maybe a little colder but is beside the point. Second number is the same except for when the oil is hot. The only way we get two different numbers for hot and cold is with additives. Lucky for us, they have been getting better with synthetics and have achieved a pretty large spread ie 0w-30. 0 (something) when it is cold and 30 (something) when it is hot.

Okay get to the point.
The thinnest oil we can make is still wayyy too THICK at room temperature. So we want oil that will give us what the engineers designed for at operating temperature and as thin as possible at room temperature. I don't care what number you decide to run for the hot number but you should run the smallest number "0" for the cold number.

That's my .02 (something) the internet told me all of this somewhere.

You're talking about viscosity index. Which is the measurement of how much an oil changes it's viscosity as temperature changes. It is certainly a good point but not the whole story. Not that I know the whole story either.

Sent from my GT-S7560M using Tapatalk

[NickFRS]

i'm still running 0-20 Mobile 1. But i'm thinking about changing to 5-30 mobile one once all my 5qt's are drained out.

[NickFRS]

I have not made a post in here for a while but here is an update. My car finally has 0 issues. After much time spent it seems everything has been sorted out. I'm also running a new intake/exhaust set up. Here is what changed.

Having my tuner change me from FFS/LC map to a standard map with no FFS/LC also fixed my belt sequel on hard shifts. I didn't like the features anyway with BRZedit.

Before:
RevWorks UEL header, Nameless 2.5 OP/DP combo w/High Flow Cat, Nameless insane 3in to dual 2in catback exhaust proto type, Perrin 3in Intake (proto), and stock spark plugs.



After:
Stock Header w/Cat GUTTED, Stock OP, Stock Front pipe w/Cat delete and w/Resonator delete, Nameless insane 3in to dual 2in catback exhaust proto type, Stock Air Box w/Cosworth dry filter, and Two step colder HKS spark plugs.


@DarrenDriven my current dyno ^

[swift996]

I posted this in my thread, it's a pretty lame video but I wanted to play with my gopro and windows movie maker. I plan to make a better video after I install my intercooler. Should be able to get a dyno video up here soon too:
[ame]http://youtu.be/pa5gO5gliME[/ame]

[xjohnx]

odd, my wideband was showing a little lean this morning on my way to work when flooring it (~13.2-13.5). It usually reads right around 12.0-12.3. Hopefully it was just a fluke. I'm going to take it easy on my drive home for lunch and if it's still doing it get some logs fired off to @DeliciousTuning

[DeliciousTuning]

Originally Posted by xjohnx

odd, my wideband was showing a little lean this morning on my way to work when flooring it (~13.2-13.5). It usually reads right around 12.0-12.3. Hopefully it was just a fluke. I'm going to take it easy on my drive home for lunch and if it's still doing it get some logs fired off to @DeliciousTuning

Make sure you have no vacuum leaks after the MAF sensor. If you do this can cause the lean condition you are seeing. Otherwise send me some logs and I will review them.

Cheers,
William Knose

[xjohnx]

Originally Posted by DeliciousTuning

Make sure you have no vacuum leaks after the MAF sensor. If you do this can cause the lean condition you are seeing. Otherwise send me some logs and I will review them.

Cheers,
William Knose

none that I could see. all the hoses on the manifold and couplers seemed to be connected securely. I'll grab some starter fluid on the way home and spray around with the car idling to see if i can locate any vacuum leaks.

I took a log and sent it your way about 5 minutes ago via the ticket i opened last night, but i don't see the ticket there anymore now.