Forced Induction Buyer's Guide | $5,000 +/- (otd) | Daily Driver Spec

[jamesm]

Everyone arguing against electric FI is on the wrong side of history. It's an inevitability. Might not be there yet, but one day it will rule all. It's just not today.

[1086]

I'm going to be down there in about 3 weeks can I get a ride along ?

[hmong337]

I've priced out some options too and I'm sorta along the lines like you. But from what I've priced, you're looking closer to $7000 out the door. That's for an fa20club 60trim kit with all the ecutek stuff and a tune. Unless you can weld, you won't be able to go turbo under $5000. You may be able to swing an Innovate SC kit for under $5000 but that kit just won't get me to where I want to be hp wise. As well, there's not much head room for making lots of power with that kit so turbo is definitely the only option. I too would like a 260-280whp on 94 octane and be super safe and conservative. Ultimately, ~400whp is where I'd wanna be and going turbo will definitely make it easier.

[CSG David]

Originally Posted by hmong337

I've priced out some options too and I'm sorta along the lines like you. But from what I've priced, you're looking closer to $7000 out the door. That's for an fa20club 60trim kit with all the ecutek stuff and a tune. Unless you can weld, you won't be able to go turbo under $5000. You may be able to swing an Innovate SC kit for under $5000 but that kit just won't get me to where I want to be hp wise. As well, there's not much head room for making lots of power with that kit so turbo is definitely the only option. I too would like a 260-280whp on 94 octane and be super safe and conservative. Ultimately, ~400whp is where I'd wanna be and going turbo will definitely make it easier.

I want 94 octane.

[Ralph Spoilsport]

Originally Posted by jamesm

Everyone arguing against electric FI is on the wrong side of history. It's an inevitability. Might not be there yet, but one day it will rule all. It's just not today.

Feel free to explain how this is relevant to someone shopping FI options in 2014. Really, I'm all ears.

[1086]

I don't think anyone is trying to challenge superiority. Its clear its not competing with anything, rather, the P-ESC is creating a new tier in FI options, at least in 2014 that is. Whose to say the potential in the next year+ ... could be great

[jamesm]

Originally Posted by Ralph Spoilsport

Feel free to explain how this is relevant to someone shopping FI options in 2014. Really, I'm all ears.

it's not.. that's kinda the point of my post. just stating that everyone poo-pooing the people who are breaking the ground are going to feel like idiots some day soon.

[nelsmar]

It can be done for the 5-6k range.

Here is a low end turbo build:
JDL EL Precision 48mm Billet Wheel Journal Bearing Turbo $3349
Omni 3 bar MAP $95
Ecutek License & Cable $650
Innovate LC-2 Wideband + Display (if desired) $165
Dyno time & Tuning fee's $600
Exedy Stage 1 Clutch + Flyhweel $400
Koyo Radiator $329

Total: $5580.00

Sure there are more things you could add like a fan shroud, exhaust upgrades, gauges if you wanted, etc. Mind you this is all at going rates, a lot of places may cut you a deal if you are buying a bunch of stuff at once.

[nelsmar]

Also if running lower boost you could go without the Omni 3 bar and the clutch... That saves $495 making the total $5085. Although this depends on the driver. I had 360WHP/260WTQ and it took a while before my clutch started to slip. I had ordered a new one and finally started pushing it to see what it would take to make it slip and I was quite surprised how it held up. But I don't do the whole drag racing thing my self.

[jamesm]

radiator isn't necessary unless you're tracking the car. i live in florida, drive like an asshole (sometimes), and my car doesn't overheat. the wideband however is not optional. you'll need a boost gauge as well.

supporting mods really depend on how you plan to use the car. when i first did my turbo the car was 100% stock, and it worked well that way until the clutch went. the most beneficial thing i've done so far has been the full exhaust.

[SmsAlSuwaidi]

Originally Posted by jamesm

radiator isn't necessary unless you're tracking the car. i live in florida, drive like an asshole (sometimes), and my car doesn't overheat. the wideband however is not optional. you'll need a boost gauge as well.

supporting mods really depend on how you plan to use the car. when i first did my turbo the car was 100% stock, and it worked well that way until the clutch went. the most beneficial thing i've done so far has been the full exhaust.

Care to expand on full exhaust beneficence


Sent from my IBrick

[nelsmar]

Originally Posted by jamesm

radiator isn't necessary unless you're tracking the car. i live in florida, drive like an asshole (sometimes), and my car doesn't overheat. the wideband however is not optional. you'll need a boost gauge as well.

supporting mods really depend on how you plan to use the car. when i first did my turbo the car was 100% stock, and it worked well that way until the clutch went. the most beneficial thing i've done so far has been the full exhaust.

I am stuck in the phoenix mindset. Pavement hits 150+F in the summer. LOL when you get IAT's of 120-130 and think "Damn thats good"! You know its warm.

So Boom there you have it. 5k 250HP kit right there. I also figured you would jump in the boat for no boost gauge by using boost cut. I recommend having gauges personally.

[jamesm]

Originally Posted by SmsAlSuwaidi

Care to expand on full exhaust beneficence


Sent from my IBrick

sure. my first upgrade after the turbo was a j2 catless front pipe, which was the only one bigger than 2.5" available at the time. it helped spool a bit, but wasn't that dramatic. next came the motiv overpipe, which aside from being beautiful didn't really do anything at all. lastly i added the perrin 3", and everything changed. it was like a whole new car. spool was faster, noticeably more power. it seems from my experience that the exhaust mods really don't do much until you get rid of all the stock bits and free it up. kinda makes sense when you think about it.

[jamesm]

Originally Posted by nelsmar

I am stuck in the phoenix mindset. Pavement hits 150+F in the summer. LOL when you get IAT's of 120-130 and think "Damn thats good"! You know its warm.

So Boom there you have it. 5k 250HP kit right there. I also figured you would jump in the boat for no boost gauge by using boost cut. I recommend having gauges personally.

true you could always log boost.. but i've definitely had a wastegate line pop off and without a gauge, my motor would've blown up. it can happen, and gauges are cheap. zip ties and hose clamps are also cheap insurance, perhaps replacing said boost gauge once everything is dialed in lol.