Lets learn to drive manual! Save my clutch Season 1

[Suberman]

Originally Posted by SirBrass

You'll never catch me driving one of those "extreme mpg über alles" econoboxes... ever. ICE cars or bust till full electric performance vehicles are financially viable. None of this weak-kneed hybrid crap.

No, don't say that. We're talking free horsepower here.

This new hybrid technology is to be demonstrated in the new F1 engine regulation.

These new hybrids won't be just Prius in disguise. They'll be much better than that.

Imagine a stop light drag race and you're in the hybrid while bozo the clown is in old fangled machinery: no supercharger and no hybrid booster, you are neck and neck until you press the "push to pass" button on your steering wheel kicking in the 80 hp electric motor with peak torque at zero rpm....enjoy!

[Suberman]

Originally Posted by ZionsWrath

The number one reason to rev match on the street is because it is fun and sounds cool. Sure it is about 99% unnecessary but it helps combat the mundane commute

You should always try to rev match. The closer you get the better you are as a driver. Too bad Nissan and Porsche both have computerized systems to make this unnecessary.

[Suberman]

Originally Posted by calidus

I will give you a smiley face

So don't bother down shifting when coming to a complete stop?

Correct.

[Suberman]

Originally Posted by Pete156

Sorry. Have to respectfully disagree,
When I come down down the west side of the Central Cascades (US Rt. 2), if I coast in my BRZ in neutral or in my Jeep JK unlimited I will far exceed my MPG by coasting for nearly 26 miles in neutral as opposed to running in gear and using engine braking. The computer in the Jeep snd BRZ aren't lying, are they?

Coasting for long distances will always save fuel. I mentioned that nobody has actually studied this issue from the perspective of average conditions. There is no doubt that freewheel transmissions are coming, SAAB had one in the 50's to save fuel.

As far as your practice be aware that long distance coasting is very bad for engine wear due to excessive cooling, worse in winter.

[calidus]

I found the DIY clutch adjustment thread and I was wondering if it something I should look into since I am learning to drive manual or not?

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk

[SirBrass]

Look into it if the clutch release height is seriously bugging you. If not, leave it alone. For others of us, it's a big deal & we're glad we could address the issue.

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

[OrbitalEllipses]

Originally Posted by nataku

There's a fine line haha. I learned to drive manual on this car and started out thinking a single mistake would cause the transmission to fall out / clutch to incinerate / engine to flood. In all honesty you have to drive very terribly to do any major damage to this car.

You have to do terrible things for a long period of time. A crunch here and a crunch there isn't GOOD, but it isn't going to destroy the box. Burning the clutch because you slipped it here and there sin't GOOD, but it's not going to melt the disc. Slipping the clutch is how it wears and also unavoidable - learn when and how to slip the clutch.

[Mrpolarbear]

Originally Posted by Suberman

Finally, downshifting to first while moving is a useful high performance driving skill best learned after you can double clutch your downshift from third to second. Heel and toe is often required because even the best synchronizers have trouble speeding up the gearbox enough to allow a decent 2 to 1 downshift. I do it routinely to take very slow corners as quickly as possible especially sharp hairpins. If you can complete the 2 to 1 downshift then you have finally learned how to drive stick.

So usually the only time I double clutch down to first is when entering a parking lot lane or approaching a speedbump (assume going down to first to hit a speedbump at ~3-5mph is better than staying in second and having to slip the clutch while going over or accelerating after?
Also occasionally do it in traffic when it slows down below 6-7 mph and second starts to bog on acceleration. Any issues there?
Haven't practiced heel toe double clutching much, is practicing it 3->2 the est way? I'm assuming its not as straining on the tranny if you aren't perfect as second gear has a synchro?

[daiheadjai]

Originally Posted by Mrpolarbear

So usually the only time I double clutch down to first is when entering a parking lot lane or approaching a speedbump (assume going down to first to hit a speedbump at ~3-5mph is better than staying in second and having to slip the clutch while going over or accelerating after?
Also occasionally do it in traffic when it slows down below 6-7 mph and second starts to bog on acceleration. Any issues there?
Haven't practiced heel toe double clutching much, is practicing it 3->2 the est way? I'm assuming its not as straining on the tranny if you aren't perfect as second gear has a synchro?

I always figured that first is one of the stoutest gears, so I never double clutch into first (of course, I never go into first unless if I'm at 5 km/h or less, and decelerating)

[calidus]

Originally Posted by SirBrass

Look into it if the clutch release height is seriously bugging you. If not, leave it alone. For others of us, it's a big deal & we're glad we could address the issue.

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

How do I know if it is bugging me and not that I just suck at driving stick? I am little jerky when it comes to release the clutch that last inch.

A large portion of my daily driving is done on roads 45 MPH in 4th gear at 3k RMPs, or I can do 47 MPH in 6th at 2k RMPs. 6th gear gets me better fuel economy, is their any advantage to staying in 4th?

[Manic]

Originally Posted by calidus

How do I know if it is bugging me and not that I just suck at driving stick? I am little jerky when it comes to release the clutch that last inch.

A large portion of my daily driving is done on roads 45 MPH in 4th gear at 3k RMPs, or I can do 47 MPH in 6th at 2k RMPs. 6th gear gets me better fuel economy, is their any advantage to staying in 4th?

It could help. I've been debating adjusting the clutch release for a while now, but laziness and the fear of a wrecked back have been stopping me. I've more or less adjusted to the high release though. Now, if the jerkiness you're referring to is the little bumping and jerking the car does between gears, I'll have to say it's expected. I was concerned when I was re-learning stick that I was just horrible at it because I couldn't get my car to shift as smoothly as my previous A/T car, but after riding with a couple M/T drivers, I've come to realize that it's just the nature of M/T. I'm sure there are people that can make the car feel like an A/T, but I don't have that level of skill or patience. So I figure, if I'm not damaging the car, I'm good.

As for staying in 4th around 45mph-ish zones, I just do it occasionally when I want more acceleration. If I'm just daily driving or commuting, I'm usually in 5th at least at that speed. High enough for fuel economy, low enough for a little hooning

But don't fret, about all the little particulars. It seems like you've been practing and doing your home work, so it'll all come together. You have enough theoretical knowledge about your manual transmission, so now you just need more experience which is where I'm at right now. Let the car teach you as you go. Despite having done all this research to best equip myself for driving my car, nothing tells you you messed up like crunching gears, jerky shifts, and popped clutches at lights

[Manic]

Originally Posted by daiheadjai

I always figured that first is one of the stoutest gears, so I never double clutch into first (of course, I never go into first unless if I'm at 5 km/h or less, and decelerating)

Honestly, considering the robustness of this car, I don't find double clutching to be all that necessary. I've done it just for the sake of practicing the technique... but the difference is negligible at best.

I have to imagine that the synchros were designed to be strong enough to handle just about anything (considering all the track-specific design decisions they made) and that if you manage to wear them out by not double clutching, the whole transmission would be worn out as well.

[Suberman]

Originally Posted by Manic

Honestly, considering the robustness of this car, I don't find double clutching to be all that necessary. I've done it just for the sake of practicing the technique... but the difference is negligible at best.

I have to imagine that the synchros were designed to be strong enough to handle just about anything (considering all the track-specific design decisions they made) and that if you manage to wear them out by not double clutching, the whole transmission would be worn out as well.

Double clutching is just not necessary. Us old farts remember how to do it from when we were young and our crappy worn out gearboxes required us to learn. Dropping down from second to first while moving at any sort of speed is much easier if you double clutch but it'll still go in if you don't. Triple cone synchronizers are just magic.

[Suberman]

Originally Posted by calidus

I found the DIY clutch adjustment thread and I was wondering if it something I should look into since I am learning to drive manual or not?

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk

I like mine adjusted to the same height as the brake pedal. Some say you can go lower but my dealer advised to stop at brake pedal height. That's about half inch lower than stock.

I like it this way.