AVO Turbo Kit Owners Topic - Page 33 - Toyota GR86, 86, FR-S and Subaru BRZ Forum & Owners Community

Sportsguy83 · 01-14-2014, 11:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by protpibe

Has anyone added a turbo blanket onto the AVO turbo? If so, which one fits?

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protpibe · 01-16-2014, 01:35 AM

Where did you guys strap the oil line to that runs off the pump? There are 2 supplied but I have no idea where they go

Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk

DAMotorsports · 01-16-2014, 03:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by protpibe

Where did you guys strap the oil line to that runs off the pump? There are 2 supplied but I have no idea where they go

Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk

Down the back of the motor. Remove one of the nuts where the tranny mounts then the other under the left head

TRD_07 · 01-16-2014, 12:50 PM

@DAMotorsports what happened to those results?

Bigmaxy · 01-17-2014, 04:37 AM

With the o2 sensors, can I confirm I have it correct?
The sensor that goes on the manifold is the grey one, it is the shorter of the two.
The black one goes on the turbo dump pipe.
The grey one does not reach unless I slide the connector from it's mount. It will then have to hang down in order to reach the o2 sensor connector.
Is this correct? Thanks. :-)

nataku · 01-17-2014, 04:41 AM

My car will be going to PTuning next week to have the MAF relocated. They're going to create custom piping to make a 3" intake pipe to the turbo, install a 100% VTA BOV, and move the MAF just before the throttle body. Also changing the tune to a primarly speed-density based one in the process. I'll post results when I get the car back by the end of next week.

All of this is because racecar... More PSSSSSHHH!! Less BOOOOM!!

Sportsguy83 · 01-17-2014, 08:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bigmaxy

With the o2 sensors, can I confirm I have it correct?
The sensor that goes on the manifold is the grey one, it is the shorter of the two.
The black one goes on the turbo dump pipe.
The grey one does not reach unless I slide the connector from it's mount. It will then have to hang down in order to reach the o2 sensor connector.
Is this correct? Thanks. :-)

I can't remember which is which, but can tell you that the O2 sensor that goes on the turbo downpipe on my car it never reached and I needed to unmount it and hang it down.

IIRC, looking into the engine bay from the front of the car, the one on the right is the one that goes to the turbo downpipe.

protpibe · 01-17-2014, 12:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bigmaxy

With the o2 sensors, can I confirm I have it correct?
The sensor that goes on the manifold is the grey one, it is the shorter of the two.
The black one goes on the turbo dump pipe.
The grey one does not reach unless I slide the connector from it's mount. It will then have to hang down in order to reach the o2 sensor connector.
Is this correct? Thanks. :-)

Grey is the primary, black is the secondary

protpibe · 01-17-2014, 01:00 PM

Once I finish my install, I'm going to take some pics to illustrate these "TIPS" that would of helped me tremendously. I hope this saves someone a bit of headache down the road.

Tighten all bolts on the header/turbo assembly when it's off the car
-BEFORE you do anything, tighten ALL bolts on the header/turbo assembly. This includes all flange bolts (header to turbo and turbo to downpipe), and the coolant banjo bolts. This will save you a giant pain in the ass later.

Removal of Fuel Computer
-Did you remove the bolts holding that black cover on and were left wondering why it still won't come off? See those 2 bolts holding the fuel computer to the black bracket? They won't help you, but a 3rd bolt BELOW and hidden beneath the fuel computer will. It's easy to get out with a ratchet and deep socket once you know it's there.

Routing of the oil lines:
-The line going from the pump on the back of the engine should route between the bottom of the block and the sway bar essentially. I'll post pics of the 2 strap locations because it's confusing. The line should run: Off the pump -> down the back of the motor -> between the bottom of the block and sway bar (here you'll find a strap mount on the transmission to block mount spot) -> Outside and around the steering knuckle -> Beside the head (second strap location) and past the header and along a coolant line.
-For the line at the front of the motor, the instructions say to mount the oil line before installing the turbo and header assembly. This is correct, but make sure you rotate and align the line correctly because it doesn't have much bend when you go to route the line itself. If you don't have it aligned where you can run the line to the left and around the head with the banjo fitting pointed down, you've aligned it wrong.
-The front oil line strap is mounted to front of the engine with on one of the silver metal bars that a wiring harness clips to. There are 2, mount it to the top one. The area should be just to the left of the dipstick
-There is a fuel injector above the oil fitting on the top front of the block. It's 100x easier to get the oil line attached with the injector wiring harness disconnected. Save yourself a pain in the ass and just unclip it first

Water lines:
-When you pull the factory coolant line off the throttle body, a bit of coolant will come out. As you pull it off, make sure you point the old line up to prevent it creating little pools on top of the engine. This will leak out the other end anyways once you've removed the other side of the line.
-When you pull the factory coolant line off the back of the motor, GET READY FOR A GEISER. If you're under the car, position yourself off to the side otherwise it will dump all over you. Immediately cover the hole with your finger, and have the new coolant line ready to go over top. Make sure the line is already run under the intake manifold and the other end is raised above the engine so coolant doesn't pour out
-Put two of those O-Clamps on the barb fittings on the turbo and make sure they're extremely tight. It will leak if you don't do this properly.

Heatshield
-I have no clue. Probably the worst part of the instructions. I think I have it mounted correctly, but it looks crooked? Anyways, it's supposed to shield the bottom of the passenger side head and some wiring harnesses from the turbo. Line it up make sure it's doing it's job.

Header installation
-BEFORE LIFTING THE HEADER/TURBO ASSEMBLY UP, make sure you remove the bolt in the bottom of the engine that the turbo support brace collar will go over. The support brace is the black rod off the turbo flange that goes straight up alongside the turbo itself. This will bolt to the motor for support with a long bolt. I'm still trying to figure out how that skinny bolt will go into the existing hole, but for now, make sure you don't install over the factory bolt. If you do, you'll have to undo all your hard work and start over. EDIT: There was a bag with 1 hex bolt and a washer with a filed down side in a tiny bag on it's own. It was actually wedged between the side of the box and the packing foam. This is the bolt to attach the header support collar. I had already replaced it with an M8x1.25 60mm, so just get one of those if you lose the original.

Charge pipe couplers
Good luck. These things are a TIGHT fit, which is a good thing I guess. The only thing I might suggest would be to make sure they are as warm as possible to make them plyable and expand a tiny bit, but other than that, a few of them are super hard to get on. For a couple of them, I used a utility knife and just trimmed the inside edge a tiny bit to have them slide on easier. Also, Use hairspray on the inside of the couplers and the outside of the charge piping. It will be a lubricant when wet, but then dry into a bit of an adhesive to make sure your pipes don't slip.

T-Bolt Clamps (http://vibrantperformance.com/catalo...5f6da4917dfb1e) and Fuel Injector Style Clamps (http://vibrantperformance.com/catalo...5f6da4917dfb1e)
Before installing, measure all of the charge piping couplers and order the properly sized t-bolt clamps. Also, order fuel injector style clamps for the coolant hoses. The install will look 100x cleaner, but they will also be more secure.

Prime the Turbo before first start
It doesn't have it in the instructions, so it might not be necessary but it certainly couldn't hurt. Before running the engine for the first time, it's a good idea to have it turn over a bunch of times without actually firing up. This is to make sure that oil is properly circulated through the turbo prior to it being spun by exhaust gases. You can hold down the gas pedal to the floor while turning the vehicle over and it will not start. This is called Flood Mode or something along those lines. Crank the car with the gas pedal to the floor 3 or 4 times for 5 seconds each using this method. Once that's done, take your foot off the gas pedal and start it normally.

Maybe I did some stuff wrong and just followed the instructions incorrectly, but these are some of the areas that stood out as a bit of a time waster while I tried to figure them out. I hope this helps!

protpibe · 01-17-2014, 03:38 PM

How did you guys get that bolt to go in under the engine that mounts the turbo flange bracket? Mine looks about 2 sizes to narrow to thread in there. I think I'm going to try a factory style bolt that is longer (m8 x 1.25 60mm I think)

andrewFT86 · 01-18-2014, 05:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by protpibe

Has anyone added a turbo blanket onto the AVO turbo? If so, which one fits?

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showt...t=49064&page=2

Bigmaxy · 01-18-2014, 06:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by protpibe

How did you guys get that bolt to go in under the engine

Didn't have any probs with that bolt as I realised before I bolted up the headers. The one supplied in the kit for fine. I can remove it and measure of you like.

How do you rate those dei titanium blankets and wrap? I've read mixed reviews where some have come apart in just a few months.

Decided to slot my bumper rails thanks to this thread. Decided to test fit front under tray and found clearance was going to be an issue. Glad this was before I had plumped up all the hoses etc. Thanks everyone. Now to buy a die grinder. :-)

Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk

ZionsWrath · 01-18-2014, 07:56 AM

Anyone tracking an AVO turbo? What PSI, power, fuel are you running? What did you do for cooling? What brakes? Wheel and tire size?

protpibe · 01-18-2014, 09:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by andrewFT86

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showt...t=49064&page=2

It looks like the heat shield was removed to fit the turbo blanket. I'm not sure I would want to do that since the downpipe is right under the head and a bunch of wiring harnesses

01-16-2014, 01:35 AM	#450
protpibe Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2013 Drives: 4-Runner Sport - 13' BRZ SportTech Location: Winnipeg Posts: 1,395 Thanks: 253 Thanked 839 Times in 459 Posts Mentioned: 18 Post(s) Tagged: 0 Thread(s)	Where did you guys strap the oil line to that runs off the pump? There are 2 supplied but I have no idea where they go Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk __________________ Top Tier Imports - Check out my build journal HERE

01-17-2014, 04:41 AM	#454
nataku Negative Mass Join Date: May 2012 Drives: Orange Metallic AVO Turbo GT86 6MT Location: Arlington VA Posts: 702 Thanks: 272 Thanked 346 Times in 201 Posts Mentioned: 56 Post(s) Tagged: 1 Thread(s)	My car will be going to PTuning next week to have the MAF relocated. They're going to create custom piping to make a 3" intake pipe to the turbo, install a 100% VTA BOV, and move the MAF just before the throttle body. Also changing the tune to a primarly speed-density based one in the process. I'll post results when I get the car back by the end of next week. All of this is because racecar... More PSSSSSHHH!! Less BOOOOM!! __________________ Build thread for my Lovely Lady.

01-17-2014, 01:00 PM	#457
protpibe Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2013 Drives: 4-Runner Sport - 13' BRZ SportTech Location: Winnipeg Posts: 1,395 Thanks: 253 Thanked 839 Times in 459 Posts Mentioned: 18 Post(s) Tagged: 0 Thread(s)	Once I finish my install, I'm going to take some pics to illustrate these "TIPS" that would of helped me tremendously. I hope this saves someone a bit of headache down the road. Tighten all bolts on the header/turbo assembly when it's off the car -BEFORE you do anything, tighten ALL bolts on the header/turbo assembly. This includes all flange bolts (header to turbo and turbo to downpipe), and the coolant banjo bolts. This will save you a giant pain in the ass later. Removal of Fuel Computer -Did you remove the bolts holding that black cover on and were left wondering why it still won't come off? See those 2 bolts holding the fuel computer to the black bracket? They won't help you, but a 3rd bolt BELOW and hidden beneath the fuel computer will. It's easy to get out with a ratchet and deep socket once you know it's there. Routing of the oil lines: -The line going from the pump on the back of the engine should route between the bottom of the block and the sway bar essentially. I'll post pics of the 2 strap locations because it's confusing. The line should run: Off the pump -> down the back of the motor -> between the bottom of the block and sway bar (here you'll find a strap mount on the transmission to block mount spot) -> Outside and around the steering knuckle -> Beside the head (second strap location) and past the header and along a coolant line. -For the line at the front of the motor, the instructions say to mount the oil line before installing the turbo and header assembly. This is correct, but make sure you rotate and align the line correctly because it doesn't have much bend when you go to route the line itself. If you don't have it aligned where you can run the line to the left and around the head with the banjo fitting pointed down, you've aligned it wrong. -The front oil line strap is mounted to front of the engine with on one of the silver metal bars that a wiring harness clips to. There are 2, mount it to the top one. The area should be just to the left of the dipstick -There is a fuel injector above the oil fitting on the top front of the block. It's 100x easier to get the oil line attached with the injector wiring harness disconnected. Save yourself a pain in the ass and just unclip it first Water lines: -When you pull the factory coolant line off the throttle body, a bit of coolant will come out. As you pull it off, make sure you point the old line up to prevent it creating little pools on top of the engine. This will leak out the other end anyways once you've removed the other side of the line. -When you pull the factory coolant line off the back of the motor, GET READY FOR A GEISER. If you're under the car, position yourself off to the side otherwise it will dump all over you. Immediately cover the hole with your finger, and have the new coolant line ready to go over top. Make sure the line is already run under the intake manifold and the other end is raised above the engine so coolant doesn't pour out -Put two of those O-Clamps on the barb fittings on the turbo and make sure they're extremely tight. It will leak if you don't do this properly. Heatshield -I have no clue. Probably the worst part of the instructions. I think I have it mounted correctly, but it looks crooked? Anyways, it's supposed to shield the bottom of the passenger side head and some wiring harnesses from the turbo. Line it up make sure it's doing it's job. Header installation -BEFORE LIFTING THE HEADER/TURBO ASSEMBLY UP, make sure you remove the bolt in the bottom of the engine that the turbo support brace collar will go over. The support brace is the black rod off the turbo flange that goes straight up alongside the turbo itself. This will bolt to the motor for support with a long bolt. I'm still trying to figure out how that skinny bolt will go into the existing hole, but for now, make sure you don't install over the factory bolt. If you do, you'll have to undo all your hard work and start over. EDIT: There was a bag with 1 hex bolt and a washer with a filed down side in a tiny bag on it's own. It was actually wedged between the side of the box and the packing foam. This is the bolt to attach the header support collar. I had already replaced it with an M8x1.25 60mm, so just get one of those if you lose the original. Charge pipe couplers Good luck. These things are a TIGHT fit, which is a good thing I guess. The only thing I might suggest would be to make sure they are as warm as possible to make them plyable and expand a tiny bit, but other than that, a few of them are super hard to get on. For a couple of them, I used a utility knife and just trimmed the inside edge a tiny bit to have them slide on easier. Also, Use hairspray on the inside of the couplers and the outside of the charge piping. It will be a lubricant when wet, but then dry into a bit of an adhesive to make sure your pipes don't slip. T-Bolt Clamps (http://vibrantperformance.com/catalo...5f6da4917dfb1e) and Fuel Injector Style Clamps (http://vibrantperformance.com/catalo...5f6da4917dfb1e) Before installing, measure all of the charge piping couplers and order the properly sized t-bolt clamps. Also, order fuel injector style clamps for the coolant hoses. The install will look 100x cleaner, but they will also be more secure. Prime the Turbo before first start It doesn't have it in the instructions, so it might not be necessary but it certainly couldn't hurt. Before running the engine for the first time, it's a good idea to have it turn over a bunch of times without actually firing up. This is to make sure that oil is properly circulated through the turbo prior to it being spun by exhaust gases. You can hold down the gas pedal to the floor while turning the vehicle over and it will not start. This is called Flood Mode or something along those lines. Crank the car with the gas pedal to the floor 3 or 4 times for 5 seconds each using this method. Once that's done, take your foot off the gas pedal and start it normally. Maybe I did some stuff wrong and just followed the instructions incorrectly, but these are some of the areas that stood out as a bit of a time waster while I tried to figure them out. I hope this helps! Last edited by protpibe; 03-29-2014 at 12:26 AM.

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01-16-2014, 12:50 PM	#452
TRD_07 Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2011 Drives: Firestorm 6MT Location: Texas Posts: 456 Thanks: 435 Thanked 115 Times in 94 Posts Mentioned: 6 Post(s) Tagged: 0 Thread(s)	@DAMotorsports what happened to those results?

01-17-2014, 04:37 AM	#453
Bigmaxy Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2012 Drives: Pegasus GTS86 Location: Aus Posts: 119 Thanks: 67 Thanked 28 Times in 20 Posts Mentioned: 1 Post(s) Tagged: 0 Thread(s)	With the o2 sensors, can I confirm I have it correct? The sensor that goes on the manifold is the grey one, it is the shorter of the two. The black one goes on the turbo dump pipe. The grey one does not reach unless I slide the connector from it's mount. It will then have to hang down in order to reach the o2 sensor connector. Is this correct? Thanks. :-)

01-17-2014, 03:38 PM	#458
protpibe Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2013 Drives: 4-Runner Sport - 13' BRZ SportTech Location: Winnipeg Posts: 1,395 Thanks: 253 Thanked 839 Times in 459 Posts Mentioned: 18 Post(s) Tagged: 0 Thread(s)	How did you guys get that bolt to go in under the engine that mounts the turbo flange bracket? Mine looks about 2 sizes to narrow to thread in there. I think I'm going to try a factory style bolt that is longer (m8 x 1.25 60mm I think)

01-18-2014, 07:56 AM	#461
ZionsWrath Thanks Join Date: Apr 2013 Drives: BRZ Location: NY Posts: 4,163 Thanks: 5,989 Thanked 3,100 Times in 1,498 Posts Mentioned: 38 Post(s) Tagged: 3 Thread(s)	Anyone tracking an AVO turbo? What PSI, power, fuel are you running? What did you do for cooling? What brakes? Wheel and tire size?

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