Combating the heat

[Brody602]

Originally Posted by suaveflooder

Not a good idea


"It is proven, because not just on Terminators but on many road race vehicles, which use WOT for very long periods of time, these hoods have been in use for many years and have proven to be VERY effective at increasing the cooling effectiveness of existing cooling systems and also increasing frontal downforce. They are so effective that on actual race cars that do not sit still, they do not use a radiator fan. Obviously if the car is not moving it will start to heat up.

Why not just remove the hood all together?

The radiator does not remove heat unless air flows through it. There is an air pressure difference in front of the radiator and behind it.

If you remove the hood I have often seen cars actually over heat.
This is because the turbulent air gets swirled down in behind the radiator and reduces the amount of difference between inlet air pressure and behind the rad pressure. That reduces air flow and less heat is removed.

Why this design hood works so well and why it works better than the two vents on our stock hoods, is because...

1. There is more vent area.
2. Each vent is shaped to provide a vacuum pull on the air below it in the engine bay, as air flows over the tops of the vents. There are rows of multiple vents, so there are multiple low pressure extraction points.

How's that? does that help?"

Thanks for taking the time to explain that.. But my statement about going hoodless was purely a joke.. There is more then just one reason as to why it wouldn't be a good idea, like you said, decreases the rads performance, not to mention its open to receive any objects like rocks and the list goes on.

It was a joke, sorry

[mrk1]

I want to run something like the evo factory hood, basic vent. If you put a small lip at the leading edge it would help pull the hot air out. I also comes down to how the structure is shaped in the factory hood. And if I want to cut my hood.

[Gen]

Originally Posted by Pablitomarrero

when you say mountain run... you literally mean push it up to the top? Spirited driving? Most engines will overheat in this situation. Not only are you working your engine to it max, but you are also adding a very big load by going uphill. If you go too long without letting the engine breathe in between WOT it will undoubtedly heat up... And CF hoods w/ scoops are rice IMO

I believe what he is referring to is Palomar Mountain, a climb of about 5000 feet. This is the only car I have ever owned that overheated on a spirited drive up it. I've owned an S2000, Mazdaspeed 3, Elise and an Exige S that I've taken up it with no issues.

[Pablitomarrero]

Originally Posted by Gen

I believe what he is referring to is Palomar Mountain, a climb of about 5000 feet. This is the only car I have ever owned that overheated on a spirited drive up it. I've owned an S2000, Mazdaspeed 3, Elise and an Exige S that I've taken up it with no issues.

At least the engine bay is always clean


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[mrk1]

Originally Posted by diss7

Get a turbo kit with a sensible turbo location, rather than putting band aids on poor turbo placement.

P tuning for example.

Of course we have to band aid the issue, adding a turbo to a car that was never designed to have one is going to come with side effects. I don't have any experience with the P Tuning location style but regardless its still a turbo in the engine bay so heat is going to happen, its inevitable. Maybe its not as predominate as the high mounts but heat happens. The lower mounting style puts an emphasis on heat management while compromising other elements like tubing length and lay out. High mount systems put the emphasis on tube lay out and make compromises on heat management. Everything has pros and cons and when someone looks to buy a P Tuning or a FBM kit they make there own call about what matters to them. I'm not saying either is better just that there is more than one way to skin a cat, so to speak.

I built my own setup so I could put the turbo any place I wanted, after much pondering I decided to go top mount and deal with the heat when it presents itself. I live in new england and don't track this car so its not an overwhelming concern.

[s2d4]

Run e85, dial the boost and tune down to make the same power as what you are currently running.

[Brody602]

Originally Posted by s2d4

Run e85, dial the boost and tune down to make the same power as what you are currently running.

Not everyone has e-85 readily available

[s2d4]

Originally Posted by Brody602

Not everyone has e-85 readily available

My apologies, please ignore my suggestion.

[Brody602]

Originally Posted by s2d4

My apologies, please ignore my suggestion.

No worries, the suggestion was valid, but there is a lot of people who are limited by pump gas, such as myself. I'm actually limited by 91, 94 octane is a 7 hour drive away. Lol

[suaveflooder]

Originally Posted by Brody602

Thanks for taking the time to explain that.. But my statement about going hoodless was purely a joke.. There is more then just one reason as to why it wouldn't be a good idea, like you said, decreases the rads performance, not to mention its open to receive any objects like rocks and the list goes on.

It was a joke, sorry

lol, I figured it was a joke, but you know there is gonna be that one guy who looks at it and goes, "WOW! That's a great idea!"

[CSG Mike]

CSG is working on a cooling solution.

I believe we will be the first, if not one of the first, to offer this type of solution. Drawing on our background in... cooling computers (as well as that of industry partners), we are developing a copper finned brass core radiator, which will be more efficient in pulling heat out of the engine coolant. Combined with a more powerful fan (which we are planning on packaging the radiator with), cooling issues should be solved.

We have been testing the cores on other cars, (Supercharged NSX, Supercharged S2000), and will begin validation testing on our 2014 BRZ (also going to be supercharged). We will NOT release the solution until we are sure that it works.

To add to the mix, we are NOT utilizing a vented hood. The only cooling modification will be the radiator and fan.

Testing will be performed both on track, and on back roads.


By the way, I love Palomar tight side.

[Brody602]

Found this option: http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=17921 , pricing is quite a bit higher though, but fitment looks spot on, this is the reply I got from BPAuto on pricing and fitment:

Full Carbon - $2,950 + domestic shipping.
Half Carbon - $1,995 + domestic shipping.
FRP - $1,450 + domestic shipping.

All authentic JDM parts are basically hand made. Although the quality and fitment can be good, we can't ever guarantee perfect fitment.

[SirBrass]

Originally Posted by Gen

Also counter productive from what I hear. My understanding is you don't want to create another point of positive pressure or you reduce the radiators performance.

If the car uses a TMIC, then a hood scoop is necessary and it doesn't degrade radiator performance. Otherwise also, air intake via the snorkel in WRXs would severely degrade the WRX's radiator's performance (since air is drawn in from the air coming in just under the lip of the hood) as would its TMIC.

Now, if there was no TMIC to seal the hood scoop's air passage, then you'd have a point, or if the hood scoop was too close to the radiator as well.

[TRD_07]

Another option is to have someone experienced cut small slits on the hood like RobiSpec did on his frs. I think this looks very cool.
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showt...light=robispec