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| Forced Induction Turbo, Supercharger, Methanol, Nitrous |
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#29 | |
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Quote:
Sure I wont have all the cool features like boost per gear etc, but setup properly load based tuning will be just fine for moderate power levels / MAF based tuning. With an EBCS ill have boost cut / boost control based on weather. Which is the more important thing, even though most boosted twin cars are probably just running spring pressure as they are mostly low boost systems. |
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#30 |
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You can alter fueling based on MAP pressure, and control boost, with no new logic in the ecu at all. The maps are already there to be used. For boost you'd just use a tactrix solenoid and the fuel vent table same as ecutek does.
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#31 | |
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the 'gotta have it custom tuned' attitude doesn't really exist where there aren't convenient options for it, and people don't seem to care much. certainly they're not popping engines left and right. they're not making every last hp they possibly could, but for most people that isn't the point. they want a good value on a safe bump in power. |
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#32 |
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Join Date: Jan 2012
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Fun fact - we created the original flying miata turbo kits for them. Originally, they just used a piggy back to handle the tune. Quite simple, quite basic, and a simple enough ecu that it didn't have to be that complex.
ECU's have gotten a lot more complex since those days. |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to AVOturboworld For This Useful Post: | Circuit Motorsports (10-27-2013) |
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#33 | |
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If they build it we will come.... but its just a foundation at the moment call me when the roof is on the building. |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to FA20Club.com For This Useful Post: | Circuit Motorsports (10-27-2013) |
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#34 | |
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Does anyone have basemaps from their Innovate/Bullet/Sprintex kits that they are willing to share? |
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#35 | |
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nothing at all. your ecu doesn't know if you're making 225whp or 550, makes no difference whatsoever. the same principles apply and work exactly the same. if you want to use electronic boost control you can do that without altering logic at all. personally i choose to stick to manual boost control, because i like my sanity. as far as tuning it, i just pulled some timing whilst smoothing out the timing map, made the open loop afr targets reasonable for boost, and went for a drive. make some runs and log all the important bits, mainly knock control. make sure afrs are stable where you want them, then begin adding about a half a degree at a time to the cells with no knock, rinse and repeat. my protune made 260whp and pulled -5deg in most FLKC cells, knocked like hell pretty much everywhere, with crazy afr's all over the place an 20+% fuel trims. my new tune, using basically this exact method (more precisely, that described by bad noodle's guide pretty much exactly), made 289whp at the same boost and has 0KC, 0 LTFT across the board. it took 54 revisions to get there, so it's not an overnight process. it takes time, and make small adjustments, no big changes at once. most importantly, when something is wrong, i can fix it myself. no email back-and-forth, waiting a week for a response bs. teach a man to fish... but us commoners can't figure out the fa20... so just pay someone to maybe possibly get it right when they find the time .
Last edited by jamesm; 11-28-2013 at 10:22 AM. |
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#36 |
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Garden variety obsessive
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Don't forget the closed to open loop delays.
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#37 |
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#38 |
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Nope - but I haven't been in touch with Mike. SkullWorks had Colby sort his rom out, maybe he has an idea? I'll shoot Mike a mail.
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#39 |
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#40 |
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#42 |
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Banned
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this can't happen soon enough... i want romraider back!
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