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Mechanical Maintenance (Oil, Fluids, Break-In, Servicing) Everything related to the mechanical maintenance of the FR-S and BRZ

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Old 11-25-2013, 10:01 PM   #15
EAGLE5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mike the snake View Post
I guess it is kind of normal for Subarus though, I read about the older engine's dip sticks having a notch just above the "full" dot that was supposed to be where they were supposed to fill to. The shop manager mentioned this as well.

He also said the BRZ engines do have a windage tray, I asked twice. I'd like to confirm this.

My engine was filled WAY above the "full" dot or even wherever they might have put a notch above that. It was an inch above the full dot on the dipstick.
There is a plate between the oil pan and crank.
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Old 11-25-2013, 11:42 PM   #16
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Windeage tray doesn't stop oil foaming if the sump is too full. It is designed to stop oil starvation from hard cornering by slowing the flow of oil up the side of the sump.
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Old 11-26-2013, 12:44 AM   #17
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My car was overfilled when I bought it, also about 3/4 inches above full. I let some out at home, but drained too much. So I had to add about 1 qt of Motorcraft 5W-20 ( only thing I had at home). I'll proboably change it out at 5000 miles.

Everybody told me I'm stupid for draining the oil from a new car and I shouldn't have bothered. I just couldn't stand the thought of driving in a brand new car with grossly overfilled engine. I mean if the oil level is so arbitrary, why do they even have dipstick? .
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Old 11-26-2013, 02:06 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mike the snake View Post
I put staggered wheels and tires on (18x8.5 and 18x9.5 with 246/265 PSS tires) lowered 1.5" with ST coilovers, which doesn't help with the understeer. Now that the car is sticking so well in turns, I can feel the back end rolling over more. I'm hoping the rear swaybar will help neutralize the handling when I get on the track or AX.
I'll hopefully be rocking over 300 to the wheels (shooting for 320-350) so I went for the wide tires, but went staggered for looks. The car is 95% street.
in that case, I have no idea if rear sway bar is good or bad but good luck and have fun
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Old 11-26-2013, 02:15 PM   #19
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It depends a bit on wheels and tire selection. Stock wheels and tires the car handles a certain way, but going to big rubber, and staggered changes everything.

Now that my car is sticking like glue around turns, I notice the rear rolling over, where with the stock wheels and tires the rear might have broken loose already.

The stiffer rear swaybar will keep the rear flatter, and when pushed to the edge I hope will cause the car to be neutral or at least reduce any understeer.

The stiffer end is usually the first end to break loose.
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Old 11-27-2013, 03:43 PM   #20
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I checked my oil level when I got the car new, and it had 3300 miles when I took it in for the oil change and it hadn't burned a drop in 3300 miles, so yeah, I took what he said with a grain of salt.

Even after he took a bunch of oil out of the engine, it still reads above the full dot, only now it's like 3/16" above the full dot, not 1 3/16".

It was way overfilled, it couldn't have been good. I'm glad i had them remove the extra oil.
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Old 11-27-2013, 09:03 PM   #21
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Get an oil catch can. No issues with oil dumping into the intake.
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Old 11-27-2013, 09:07 PM   #22
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Catch can is going in next week along with turbo kit, clutch, radiator/oil cooler, Tomei 80mm exhaust, Hydra standalone EMS and Hydramist WMI.
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Old 11-28-2013, 12:08 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mike the snake View Post
I brought the car in this morning. They tried to tell me that they overfill these cars because they can burn up to a quart of oil in as little as 1200 miles, and that my oil level was just fine.

When we checked the oil there at the dealership, the level was still about 5/16" above the line, checked warm, after the car had been off for a minute.

I told him I had checked the level on flat ground, after the car had sat for 5 minutes warm, and cold, and the level was quite a bit higher. He appeased me and sucked some oil out for me.

When he brought the car back, the oil level was under the full mark. I checked it after i got home with the car sitting for 15 minutes, and the oil level now is Juuust above the full mark.

All in all, I'm glad I had them take the extra oil out, as I felt that even though a little overfull is OK, my car had too much oil in it.

SO, what I've learned is that the oil level readings can vary quite a bit depending on how you check the oil.





That is complete bullshit. Glad they fixed it. Dumbest excuse I have ever heard. I'd be "see owners manual" then proceed to kiss my ass. Ill be in the lounge..
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Old 11-28-2013, 07:00 PM   #24
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Has anyone heard if the oil I am using is Idemitsu 0w20. Should change my oil every 5000 or 3750? I read somewhere that the dealer said if you are using regular oil you need to change it out every 3750. Correct me if I am wrong. : ] thanks! Happy turkey slaughter day!
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Old 11-29-2013, 12:26 AM   #25
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Excessive oil can cause hydro lock.

1/ when cold, you will have a hard time cranking your engine....it will eventually start after a few tries, but you will realize it is not usual.

2/ you can drive, but when ur car is warm, and drive at high rev, it will ruin your engine. It can happen anywhere from a cracked block, blowned head, bent valves...rods...whatever that will get you to have to engine swap it.

How did i know ? Well it happened to my motor cycle when i was young and tried to fill it up. Luckily my uncle helped me seeing the problem when i had hard time cranking it, and the engine dies out on idle....
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Old 11-29-2013, 09:48 AM   #26
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Originally Posted by Whitigir View Post
Excessive oil can cause hydro lock.

1/ when cold, you will have a hard time cranking your engine....it will eventually start after a few tries, but you will realize it is not usual.

2/ you can drive, but when ur car is warm, and drive at high rev, it will ruin your engine. It can happen anywhere from a cracked block, blowned head, bent valves...rods...whatever that will get you to have to engine swap it.

How did i know ? Well it happened to my motor cycle when i was young and tried to fill it up. Luckily my uncle helped me seeing the problem when i had hard time cranking it, and the engine dies out on idle....
What are you talking about, the OP was mentioning that his crankcase was overfilled. That is not going to cause Hydro lock on the car. Worst case,
The crankshaft will beat the oil turning it to foam causing the oil to be aerated. Which makes the pick up tube for the oil harder to get oil through the system.
It's not going to put oil inside the cylinders to cause hydro lock. You should refer to basic engine knowledge 101 before making such erroneous statements.
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Old 11-29-2013, 03:23 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mikem53 View Post
What are you talking about, the OP was mentioning that his crankcase was overfilled. That is not going to cause Hydro lock on the car. Worst case,
The crankshaft will beat the oil turning it to foam causing the oil to be aerated. Which makes the pick up tube for the oil harder to get oil through the system.
It's not going to put oil inside the cylinders to cause hydro lock. You should refer to basic engine knowledge 101 before making such erroneous statements.
Oh ? So from your engine 101, oil Over fill an engine will not cause Hydro lock ?

Honestly, I need to learn more from that. Over filled oil will not enter the cylinders to cause hydro lock.
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Old 11-29-2013, 05:33 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Whitigir View Post
Oh ? So from your engine 101, oil Over fill an engine will not cause Hydro lock ?

Honestly, I need to learn more from that. Over filled oil will not enter the cylinders to cause hydro lock.
Please enlighten us how over filling crankcase will hydro lock the engine.
I love science fiction.. Read my post again for the real answer and please entertain us with your explanation..
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