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Old 10-06-2013, 04:59 AM   #183
redsuns03
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Originally Posted by Techfl3x View Post
Thanks for the guide @Enigmus ! Still having trouble with the crank bolt. I was trying to loosen it and thought I was making progress when something gave and had me diving head first into the engine bay. My socket adapter snapped!!! Luckily I caught myself and didn't ding anything. This is one stubborn bolt!, doesn't help with the squishiness of the pulley.
Attachment 53268

While i tough out the night in defeat, Id appreciate any more advice on getting this sucker loose.
I just had mine installed today. When using a breaker bar, use 1/2 drive impact sockets so you won't have to worry about loading the force on an adapter. Also on top of the breaker bar, we used a metal tube over the breaker bar to add more leverage. Put it in 6th gear and E brake tightly. Good luck!
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Old 10-06-2013, 05:11 AM   #184
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Great post! Need to do this soon!
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Old 10-12-2013, 03:07 AM   #185
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Aftermarket Crank Pulley Install

Success feels good. Got a 1/2" drive socket, no adapter, long torque wrench, and a good amount of force.
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Old 10-12-2013, 04:11 AM   #186
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^^ looks goood
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Old 10-12-2013, 05:58 AM   #187
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Just wanted to say, thanks for the DIY! Used this today in combination with the shop and repair manuals to get my Toda crankshaft on. I gave the water-pump and generator pulley a try (part of the kit) while I was down there but couldn't figure a way out without an impact gun / the SST or using like chain wrench grips / oil filter puller / old v-belt.. anyway, tomorrow, I will conquer thee.

Even managed to be fore-warned about the crankshaft pulley spacers tendency to fall out, which I was able to avoid. Awesome.Thanks so much!

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Old 10-16-2013, 11:41 AM   #188
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Got my kartboy pulley installed last night, very awesome mod.

Quick tip on the tough bolt: My and my friend noticed that the bolt felt very spongy and we were moving the car... it was actually fighting the e-brake! So one of us pumped the brake (because 4 is better than 2) and held it down while the other person was able to crack the bolt with just one hand (and a two foot breaker bar).

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Old 10-17-2013, 02:36 AM   #189
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I removed my intake to get easier access to the crank bolt. When I had the whole engine bay to work with, I could turn the bolt almost 30 degrees because of the play. Then the next 45 degrees I was bending my 30" breaker bar. Then the last 15 degrees or so, it loosened.

A little rubber gasket stuck to the stock pulley when I took it off. I just stuffed it back into the groove on the front of the engine before installing the new Perrin pulley.

Afterwards I noticed the crank pulley moving up and down a little while idling. I hope everything's okay. It drives fine.

The difference to me is very subtle. The engine drops and rises quicker in rpms when free revving out of gear. When in gear, it hardly seems noticeable. I do think it's easier to rev match and start out in first now though.
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Old 10-19-2013, 07:17 PM   #190
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I am new to forms but i came across this on google and found it to be very helpful. I just had bought the GFB pulley kit and i was installing it my self this was very useful for knowing how to uninstall n reinstall the lighter pulley but i also had to do the same for the alternator n water pump pulley, if anyone is doing the kit project and has no clue how to get thiese pulleys off it is very simple for the alternator u will need a 22mm 1/2 impact socket and impact wrench because even with the belt on this pulley it will still spin freely u need the toque of the impact wrench to free the nut and for the water pump pulley u will just need a 10mm impact socket with the impact wrench other than that it was a very easy simple install and only took about 40 mins from start to finish n for only $350 i think it was a worth it
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Old 10-20-2013, 09:14 PM   #191
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Just wanted to say THANKS for this DIY it really helped me today!

Everything went relatively smooth and can say I am completely satisfied with the pulley kit. All pulleys went on easy, have no wobble, and look great.



For the main pulley I borrowed a 24' breaker bar from Auto Zone. After putting the car in 6th gear and setting the e-brake very tight it took 2 good tugs. On the 2nd tug it broke and I damn near hit my ass on the ground, LOL.

As for the alternator pulley unless you have an impact gun that thing is not coming off or on. (luckily I did). It took a little bit but the impact gun was able to break the nut loose. I also had to use the impact gun to re-torque to bolt to 80 pounds when putting it back on.
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Old 10-29-2013, 09:51 PM   #192
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All done. Thanks!

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Old 11-05-2013, 08:50 PM   #193
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Enigmus View Post

Admire the differences in weight and finish between the OEM and new crank pulleys!
is it possible to post more pictures of the oem pully? i want to buy the perrin one but i just want to see how the old one looks more closely off of the car. is it entirely metal only?
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Old 11-17-2013, 10:17 PM   #194
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Semi-necro bump here.

Just how much of a difference in feel does a new crank pulley offer? I've been specifically looking at the Perrin unit for weeks now, but I can't get myself to pull the trigger.
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Old 11-18-2013, 12:22 AM   #195
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Originally Posted by driftartist View Post
is it possible to post more pictures of the oem pully? i want to buy the perrin one but i just want to see how the old one looks more closely off of the car. is it entirely metal only?
Correct, these aren't harmonic dampeners. Just a big hunk of metal. Really no reason not to get a lighter aftermarket pulley, as long as it's the same diameter.
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Old 11-18-2013, 12:24 AM   #196
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Originally Posted by R.S-HawK View Post
Semi-necro bump here.

Just how much of a difference in feel does a new crank pulley offer? I've been specifically looking at the Perrin unit for weeks now, but I can't get myself to pull the trigger.
I don't even notice it anymore. Not sure how long it took to get numb to it, but I bet I'd notice a difference if I put the OEM one back on. Power isn't really much of a change, but you should notice a difference when free-revving.
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