Adjusting camber to tuck in the wheel..?

[Yamajee]

Hey guys,

I'm running a 18x9.5 and 18x8.5 staggered setup, I have 25MM H&R spacers lying around from my previous wheel setup and when I installed them in the rear, the tire went way out of the fender, I'm running stock struts and eibach pro kit springs, what do I have to do to be able to tuck in the top of the wheel inside the fender, will the whiteline bushings do or should I go for LCAs? I don't mind a lot of poke

[brz7400]

It seems to have good camber already.
If you don't mind a lot of poke, keep as is.
If you want to tuck, removing the 1 inch spacer would return it back to tuck?
I think more camber will require the part/saliva you mentioned, but will probably wear out tires too quick...

[Hmongfrs]

With that much poke you probably have to get lca and toe arm to get it tuck n toe 0...

[Yamajee]

Originally Posted by brz7400

It seems to have good camber already.
If you don't mind a lot of poke, keep as is.
If you want to tuck, removing the 1 inch spacer would return it back to tuck?
I think more camber will require the part/saliva you mentioned, but will probably wear out tires too quick...

I would keep it and i havent experienced rub unless it was a little pothole or bump on the road and i was going fast then id hear a bit of rubbing otherwise it wouldnt rub. Removing the spacer would just get it back to normal. Not a lot of poke and the fender gap is annoying.

Originally Posted by Hmongfrs

With that much poke you probably have to get lca and toe arm to get it tuck n toe 0...

So not only LCAs but toe arms? Wont the bushings do for a bit of tucking in so it would be flush? Im not going any lower and the toe seems fine the last time i did an alignment so unless i was going lower i wouldnt need toe arms to correct my toe i think..?

[Vten]

I believe UCA is a better set for you, since you want to tuck in the top more.

on the LCA, you can push or pull the bottom part, and the toe arm is the one keeping the toe closer to 0 for a longer thread life.

[Noob4Life]

Honestly I'd buy smaller spacers. Maybe 20mm? You're running a lot of camber already. Or roll the fenders a tad if you don't want to buy new spacers.

[Yamajee]

Originally Posted by Vten

I believe UCA is a better set for you, since you want to tuck in the top more.

on the LCA, you can push or pull the bottom part, and the toe arm is the one keeping the toe closer to 0 for a longer thread life.

Will the whiteline bushings do the job or should I buy UCAs?

Originally Posted by Noob4Life

Honestly I'd buy smaller spacers. Maybe 20mm? You're running a lot of camber already. Or roll the fenders a tad if you don't want to buy new spacers.

Think I would be in danger if I run on the 25mm's? coz from what a friend has said, made it sound like I'm running on only one lug bolt on 80 miles and that I would die .

Does this look like a lot of camber?

[Vten]

good adapter should be fine. it seems like you have about an inch drop and the camber is around 1-2 degree. like I mentioned before, I'd get an uca, since your wheels are really poke out already and you want to tuck in the top of the wheels.

you can get the rear UCA on one of the vendor here , they make a custom one.

or take those spacer out and get an LCA and camber in a little bit more ...imo.

[sevi21]

You probably have like 1 degree in the rear... i have sportlines and im around 1.6 degrees
so im guessing you have about 1. This last season i put 25mm spacers on my rear with
a 8.75 width wheel, 33 offset, and i rubbed hard every where. Took them off after a day,
because with that setup i was thinking i would need around 2.5 degrees or more of
camber to rub less.

[Enraged21]

roll and pull the fenders

[Yamajee]

Originally Posted by Vten

good adapter should be fine. it seems like you have about an inch drop and the camber is around 1-2 degree. like I mentioned before, I'd get an uca, since your wheels are really poke out already and you want to tuck in the top of the wheels.

you can get the rear UCA on one of the vendor here , they make a custom one.

or take those spacer out and get an LCA and camber in a little bit more ...imo.

Indeed an inch drop.

Here's how it looks now and yes that's a single exit exhaust for noise :

Originally Posted by sevi21

You probably have like 1 degree in the rear... i have sportlines and im around 1.6 degrees
so im guessing you have about 1. This last season i put 25mm spacers on my rear with
a 8.75 width wheel, 33 offset, and i rubbed hard every where. Took them off after a day,
because with that setup i was thinking i would need around 2.5 degrees or more of
camber to rub less.

Ironically, I'm not rubbing unless it was a really hard bump then I'd hear the tire hitting the fender. That happened like once and I had the spacers on for about 5 days.

Originally Posted by Enraged21

roll and pull the fenders

Very hard to find a shop who would do that in here, and if there are, I'm sure they're gonna use a baseball bat -.-

[Noob4Life]

You can add more camber you'll just be replacing tires more often and it will definitely just be a low for show setup

[Hmongfrs]

The stock toe can't adjust that much..I tried that's why I got the gtspec toe arm for me to run -6..before I got the stock toe with -6 camber and they can't set the toe to 0 cause it max out so I set the toe 0 and leave the camber at -3.7 and now with the gtspec toe no worries....

[Yamajee]

Originally Posted by Noob4Life

You can add more camber you'll just be replacing tires more often and it will definitely just be a low for show setup

Of course this setup would be for show just for the heck of it.

Originally Posted by Hmongfrs

The stock toe can't adjust that much..I tried that's why I got the gtspec toe arm for me to run -6..before I got the stock toe with -6 camber and they can't set the toe to 0 cause it max out so I set the toe 0 and leave the camber at -3.7 and now with the gtspec toe no worries....

So wait, you're telling me the rear camber can be adjusted without bushings or LCAs/UCAs? because I heard that it's impossible to adjust camber on both the ends (front and rear) without bushings for a bit of adjustment or UCA/LCA for maxing out, etc.