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| Scion FR-S / Toyota 86 GT86 General Forum The place to start for the Scion FR-S / Toyota 86 | GT86 |
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#43 |
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First thing first, welcome to the forum.
Here are some of my tip for ya.
These are my tip & I'll leave you w Tada-san's tip (Toyota Chief Engineer of FT86 Concept) "Design/create your 86. May be just a small sticker on the window or full engine swap. 86 that show who you are and proud of." |
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#44 |
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Well, if you think swapping sway bars is not touching the suspension you need to spend some more time reading. That changes the car immensly. Strut bars not so much. Might help turn in a bit.
You dont need a tune for most parts, you just dont gain asmuch HP. So a drop in and catback would get the loud part of that covered. Think about your goal. Springs vary based on the spring rate. Im not sure what the rates of the Eibachs are. Are they even rates or stiffer in the back? Installing HIDs is more intrsive than LEDs. HIDs you add some wiring, LEDs you swap a bulb. But its you car. Ive given my .02 and its similar to what others have said. Maybe provide more info on why you want what you do out of the car. What is you driving ability? Make the car exceed your ability is a recipe for diaster. I have learned that the hard way. |
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#45 | |
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What would sway bars do in terms of changing how the car drives? Would it make it worse? I don't know the spring rate of the eibach springs I remember them saying something like it was very similar so it did not change the drive quality of the FRS very much. It actually makes it slightly stiffer and a bit more responsive. This is what I've read at least. Recommend some good LEDs? I didn't even know you could do that nowadays. I'm still remembering the days of honda fanatics scrambling to get their hands on those "ultra white xenon like" bulbs. Lol I want the car to be stiff, responsive, nimble, quick, yet still drive able as a daily driver. I want it to have a true sports car feel and look. Like a little lotus or Porsche or something like that. Lol (obviously with less power) I apologize to all for my new-ness I'm very inexperienced at this. At almost 30 years old I'm just now getting the car tuning itch lol. So I can install an exhaust and CAI without a tune? What's the sacrifice in terms of less power? I'd want full power potential honestly. |
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#46 |
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#47 |
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#48 | |
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Spend some time in the tech section http://www.ft86club.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=59 And take a look at suspension options as it lists spring rates to compare. Most springs do not make it super stiff. Swift Springs are similar in stiffness to the Eibachs you mentioned, but use a less coil design for better comfort. Might be another brand to look into. I did not like how twitchy the back end felt when pushing the car, so I went with an even spring rate in the RCE Yellows. It's all about preference. I personally couldn't see doing it any other way, except maybe with coilovers and putting the stiffer springs in the front. It may make the car handle better, but it could make the car handle much worse if you don't know exactly what you are getting in to. A drop in filter and cat back will not yield huge gains to begin with (prob 5-10hp untuned, maybe 10-15 tuned?), but will make the car a bit more responsive. A tune gets the most out of the mods. You don't have to go with a full custom tune though. You could get something like the OpenFlash Tab from Vishnu and use off the shelf open source maps based on your parts. Takes all of 5 minutes to install the tune and your good to go. To get responsiveness it may not be numbers you want to chase but better power and torque curve. As far as LEDs, check out the lighting vendor forum and there are a ton of great options. I got all mine from Automation Lighting, but there are plenty of vendors to choose from with packages to suit your needs. Also, it hasn't really been touched on but you mentioned getting wheels. Stock tires on this car are not grippy at all. If you upgrade to a true performance summer tire you will be amazed at the grip this car has all of a sudden. |
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#49 |
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+1, you do not NEED to touch a single thing on the suspension; it's a pure-bred sports car from the factory, just like a Porsche Cayman, which was the target vehicle for the GT86/FR-S/BRZ. Sign up at a performance driving school and drive it stock. Once you get used to the car and actually push it you will see how incredible it is BONE STOCK; turn off the traction/stability control and the car comes alive while still being easily controllable.
There are a few changes I'd recommend for anyone though: #1. Aluminum steering rack bushings. This is how the car should have come from the factory - compared to the soft stock rubber ones there is a big improvement in steering feel and driving precision for very little money invested ($30-$50). The weird hesitation of the chassis around midway through turning in is eliminated and replaced with direct, immediate, linear responsiveness. No way you'll want to go back to the stock bushings. Best bang for the buck if you want to improve the driving feel of the FR-S. #2. Lighter weight wider wheels with stock sized tires. 17x7.5 or 17x8 wheels that weight less than 17lbs on 215/45-17 tires that weight no more than the stock Primacy HPs really improves the ride quality and handling. I'm running 17x7.5 17lb +40mm offset wheels on the stock tires and it is a very noticeable difference over the stock wheels. The car will be it's most responsive due to less weight and the wheel width maximizing the tire sidewall support. Best to get a tire with a tread width that matches the wheel width. Less unsprung mass = less upsetting of the chassis. A 2lb reduction in unsprung mass is a noticeable difference...but get as light a wheel as you can afford! #3. Drop in air filter. stock paper one is a PAIN to get in/out the air box with a slicone intake tube (no flexibility) so I bought the K&N and Perrin foam one. I really like the Perrin one over the K & N for better filtration and less flow restriction as it accumulates dirt. #4. Catback/axleback exhuast system... car needs a non-stock exhaust system, stock just doesn't cut it at all under 5krpm. Tons of options...almost every single one better than stock. #5. Nice solidly designed one-piece front strut tower brace. The Grimmspeed one has made a noticeable difference over the previous 1 piece bar I had from another manufacturer - ride is improved with the welded .125" thick wall tube steel straight as an arrow design helping reduce harshness and crash over bumps and seams/dips/holes. People take out the intake noise generator because it is a gimmick which installing a proper intake and exhaust system fixes. And taking it out really cleans up the engine bay nicely as well. Also if you want something in the interior that really makes a big difference look into getting better shift boots and handbrake boots...the stock FR-S one's are horribly cheap looking and it's amazing how big a difference just changing out those 2 pieces to genuine Alcantara material ones makes:
__________________
Had a '13 FR-S Asphalt 6spd manual (bought new 5/25/12, sold 6/10/20) but needed to let her go... she will be missed.
Last edited by Vracer111; 11-07-2013 at 03:23 AM. |
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#50 | |
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#51 |
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Link to underbody panels (they cost roughly $250 + $50 shipping):
http://www.japanparts.com/db/parts_d...=56&submit.y=3 If you decide to get them, here's how to install them (see the "DIY (Do-It-Yourself) Guides" section of FT86CLUB for tons other useful DIY stuff): http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=38946 |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to PabloN For This Useful Post: | fazm (11-07-2013) |
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#52 |
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What would I notice in terms of this, feeling wise if you can describe it? I DO like stiffness and I like zippy, tight handling. When there is almost no body roll and the center of gravity in a car seems almost attached to the ground. I like that feeling, I feel like cars zip around turns and corners really well that way. I don't know what it would feel like on the FRS though. I'd need to drive a car with that setup. Coilovers really? What do you recommend? I'm going to check into those springs you mentioned.
As far as the drop in filter and cat-back would you recommend that instead of the CAI? I was looking at the Takeda CAI, but I have also considered the drop in. Tuning, ok, pardon my noobness, but how and what do I do in terms of that? How does that affect warranty? I heard about that OpenFlash from perusing here but I still know nothing about it. Better power and torque curve ratio is something that I am interested in, so I do agree there. Oh yeah I definitely want a good wheel/tire setup I live in Florida so performance tires/summer tires we can use year round here with no issues. I had some really nice Yokohama's on my crappy Mazda 3 and that drastically changed how well it drove, it was great. I've also had some good luck with the higher end Sumitomo's. I am definitely going to be getting a nice tire/wheel setup, but that's $$$$ that I unfortunately cannot afford to dish out right now, especially with a soon to come car payment ![]() You've been a lot of help, I appreciate all your advice and time. |
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#53 |
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#54 |
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#55 |
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