Wheel Directory: WedsSport TC105N 17x9.0 +35

[Anaxilus]

Originally Posted by Wise

I might be mistaken, but judging from pics the 17x9 looks more concave than the 17x8.

That's because it is. It has a FF face. The 17x8.5 is FR just like the 17x9.

http://wedssport.jp/products/tc105n.html

[powfrs]

Yeah go with the 9! Might better having a 255/40 on a 9" than a 8.5".

[Anaxilus]

Originally Posted by powfrs

Yeah go with the 9! Might better having a 255/40 on a 9" than a 8.5".

255/40/17 on 9s runs 1/2 inch taller diameter than OE and 245/40/17 on 8.5. Not to mention the previous clearance issues. 8.5 might get you 3mm more clearance on the outside and 9mm on the inside while increasing your track width 6mm overall compared to 9s all while saving weight.

Personally I'll never be running more than 225, maybe 235 at the most (if I ever make the power necessary) as it's primarily street first and track second for a DD w/ no more than 350hp crank max (if I even break 300 ever). 255 on 9s on 4 corners would make the car feel like ass driving on the road I think. Better to get a Mustang IMHO. If I could I'd stay at 7/7.5 at 35-38 offset but I don't want to get another set of CE28Ns, especially for this car (looks w/ 17s not so hot).

Regardless, I get the extra meat argument, the aesthetic concave look, etc. I just don't think another 1/2 inch is worth the cost when you get most of the same benefit and more at 8.5. Unless I'm missing something. Maybe it'll be an option in future and this will be a moot question.

[MidnightRunner]

Originally Posted by Anaxilus

255/40/17 on 9s runs 1/2 inch taller diameter than OE and 245/40/17 on 8.5. Not to mention the previous clearance issues. 8.5 might get you 3mm more clearance on the outside and 9mm on the inside while increasing your track width 6mm overall compared to 9s all while saving weight.

Personally I'll never be running more than 225, maybe 235 at the most (if I ever make the power necessary) as it's primarily street first and track second for a DD w/ no more than 350hp crank max (if I even break 300 ever). 255 on 9s on 4 corners would make the car feel like ass driving on the road I think. Better to get a Mustang IMHO. If I could I'd stay at 7/7.5 at 35-38 offset but I don't want to get another set of CE28Ns, especially for this car (looks w/ 17s not so hot).

Regardless, I get the extra meat argument, the aesthetic concave look, etc. I just don't think another 1/2 inch is worth the cost when you get most of the same benefit and more at 8.5. Unless I'm missing something. Maybe it'll be an option in future and this will be a moot question.

Valid argument, and I would love a set of 17x8.5 but they don't make our pattern. Its only 5x114. I'll end up getting the 9s but initially had the 8.5s on my list until I found out about our shitty 5x100 limitations.

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[OICU812]

Curious to ask, are there any center caps even available for these wheels? I think answer is no, I haven't seen them but thought to ask anyhow just in case.

[kask2_6.0]

There are the wedssport ones. I was making a center cap/hubcentric ring for awhile but unfortunately I don't have any left. I could get you a drawing though if you want to have them made somewhere.

[Captain Insano]

I have the Wedsport center caps for mine. They look pretty great IMHO.

[kylefrs]

I love the blacked out look

[Foobar]

Originally Posted by OICU812

Curious to ask, are there any center caps even available for these wheels? I think answer is no, I haven't seen them but thought to ask anyhow just in case.

Weds makes a set, pretty pricey for what they are though, and you can only use them or hubcentric spacers, not both at the same time.

Alternatively, @kask2_6.0 fabricated the aluminum ones that serve both purposes. That's what I went with. Also pricey, but dual-function.

Speaking of the aluminum ones, I ended up scratching the paint off of one of mine when I was switching to my winter wheels. I didn't realize the cap was still on the hub and ended up scuffing the edges. Anyone know of a good way to touch that up or is it best to just get it anodized all over again?

[kask2_6.0]

Originally Posted by Foobar

Weds makes a set, pretty pricey for what they are though, and you can only use them or hubcentric spacers, not both at the same time.

Alternatively, @kask2_6.0 fabricated the aluminum ones that serve both purposes. That's what I went with. Also pricey, but dual-function.

Speaking of the aluminum ones, I ended up scratching the paint off of one of mine when I was switching to my winter wheels. I didn't realize the cap was still on the hub and ended up scuffing the edges. Anyone know of a good way to touch that up or is it best to just get it anodized all over again?

Using some hobby paint and a tiny brush will probably be your best bet. Not sure what the process is for re anodizing a part.

[rickyb80]

actually, to go from 17x7's w/ skinny tires to 17x9's with wide tires and only add 2 lbs per corner, that's really not that bad at all. You now have MUCH better grip for cornering and launching and you haven't added much weight in the process. You can make up for that 8 lbs by taking out your spare tire. Actually, I think you'll save close to 40 lbs if you take out your spare tire and tools....

[Boxer486]

Originally Posted by rickyb80

actually, to go from 17x7's w/ skinny tires to 17x9's with wide tires and only add 2 lbs per corner, that's really not that bad at all. You now have MUCH better grip for cornering and launching and you haven't added much weight in the process. You can make up for that 8 lbs by taking out your spare tire. Actually, I think you'll save close to 40 lbs if you take out your spare tire and tools....

No you don't. That's only for the rim. The added meat on the tire is another couple pounds. So maybe 4 pounds per corner give or take depending on the tire make/model. That's around 16lbs which is both unsprung and rotational mass, unlike the spare tire. For daily driving you probably loose grip as you'll also take longer to get to optimal tread temperature if even possible w/ 255s on the street. You also reduce your tires contact patch from front to rear unless you plus size so braking can be affected.

No, stay skinny, save weight, save gas, keep your power, keep temps up and remove the spare. That's a win-win for the street. If you aren't tracking, it's just bling yo.

I only mention this as some might think you are making your car safer and fast with massive gumballs. You aren't, so just be aware before you total your car or cause a pileup. Don't be that douche in the Subaru doing 110mph during a rain storm shielded by the false hope of AWD and ignorance (that's an analogy for those that missed it).

[rickyb80]

Originally Posted by Boxer486

No, stay skinny, save weight, save gas, keep your power, keep temps up and remove the spare. That's a win-win for the street. If you aren't tracking, it's just bling yo.

Yes, but you forget that the stock tires are summer tires, and aren't designed for anything other than dry conditions to some light rain. I live in Maryland and it snows here sometimes and I like the reassurance of knowing I have a set of ultra-high performance all seasons that still grip up better than the stock summer tires do (look up the Continental ExtremeContact DWS's on tirerack, they're probably the highest rated tire on the site, especially for the price) On top of that, I just couldn't stand the way the FRS looked from the rear with the stock Prius tires. I can say that the 245's I have on my ride right now look much better.

Originally Posted by Boxer486

I only mention this as some might think you are making your car safer and fast with massive gumballs. You aren't, so just be aware before you total your car or cause a pileup. Don't be that douche in the Subaru doing 110mph during a rain storm shielded by the false hope of AWD and ignorance (that's an analogy for those that missed it).

Neither the BRZ, FRS, or 86 come in AWD, but I see where you're coming from in regards to people being idiots in general.

[dabocx]

Are the 18X9.5 the same face? Or do they come in the RR face?