Questions and Discussion on Vortech Supercharging Systems

[Foobar]

Originally Posted by jamesm

Sure, just let me run down to walmart and pick up a heated garage, simple.

I'd be pissed if I had to deal with that. That's a major, major downside.

I offered much cheaper and easier to obtain alternatives.

Anyway, none of this info is news. Again, we discussed this in the spring and every one of us who has this kit was made aware of the warranty stipulation, and as other forums on the net stated for years, this is all standard CYA verbiage. Plenty of people in northern climates daily their vortech cars through this winter.

I am not aware of one person who reported a voided warranty due to not having a heated garage, block heater, or blanket.

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[415FRS]

I have strong oil burning odor in my car after installed Vortech Sc. I thought it would go away after a broke in but its still there after a few thousand mile. I also found some oil on the compressor where it lead to the intake. Anyone else experience thjs? First i thought i over filled the oil for the compressor but its not.

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[F1point4]

move to Texas. Cold weather problems solved. :p

[ft86me]

Originally Posted by F1point4

move to Texas. Cold weather problems solved. :p

Or cali

[nelsmar]

Originally Posted by 415FRS

I have strong oil burning odor in my car after installed Vortech Sc. I thought it would go away after a broke in but its still there after a few thousand mile. I also found some oil on the compressor where it lead to the intake. Anyone else experience thjs? First i thought i over filled the oil for the compressor but its not.

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Wait... You added oil to the blower??? It comes pre lubricagdd and filled. All you should be doing is removing the cap and screwing in the breather. When the
Blower is cold you should read at the very bottom of the dipstick.

[pheoxs]

Originally Posted by 415FRS

I have strong oil burning odor in my car after installed Vortech Sc. I thought it would go away after a broke in but its still there after a few thousand mile. I also found some oil on the compressor where it lead to the intake. Anyone else experience thjs? First i thought i over filled the oil for the compressor but its not.

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That's actually normal. Its the result of not having a catch can, the PCV blows a bit of oil into the intake and that is what your seeing. While not required a catch can is recommended for any forced induction application (actually its a good idea even on a stock motor).

Originally Posted by nelsmar

Wait... You added oil to the blower??? It comes pre lubricagdd and filled. All you should be doing is removing the cap and screwing in the breather. When the
Blower is cold you should read at the very bottom of the dipstick.

He's talking about if you were to pull the air box off and look at the compressor wheel itself, there's a tiny bit of oil built up around the surfaces. Its blowby from the PCV system.

[nelsmar]

Ah yeah oil on the compressor is normal. That is what a catch can is for. I would hate to see the inside of my intercooler right now lol.

[DJCarbine]

When I removed my vortech airbox/some charge piping to install the maxflow valve, there was a coating of oily blowby all inside the intake box, compressor wheel, as well as the charge pipe to compressor coupler. Going to install a catchcan between the hose that runs right into the airbox to stop some of that.

[Brian@Vortech]

To add further info to the cold weather conversation, I will quote myself from an earlier thread: " It is a mechanical piece cooled by oil, just like any other similar device. Viscosity in temperature extremes would be a concern with any and all engine components, not just a Supercharger. We place the warning on the Supercharger because that is the part that we manufacture. Similarly to how steps must be taken in any turbo application to prevent the oil from getting too hot, leading to oil coking issues, steps must be taken to avoid the Supercharger oil from being too cold at the instant of initial startup. However, the warning relates only to initial startup in below 25 degree weather. Once the vehicle has been brought up to normal operating temperatures, everything will operate exactly as any other day. The same tolerances inside the unit that allow it to be quiet and super efficient, also have to be tight in order to be quiet and super efficient. Before initial startup (if the vehicle has been sitting for hours) in under 25 degree conditions, a block heater, heating blanket, or even a shop light on under the hood for enough time to raise the underhood temp above freezing is sufficient. Once the vehicle is at normal operating temperature, no other steps are required."

Items that can raise your underhood temps above freezing prior to initial startup are also additional smart things to have regardless. Cold weather is hard on machinery. Pistons, valves, pumps, etc. ALL machinery. Tolerances change, the dynamic viscosity ratio of lubricants lower. This is true across the board. However, we aren't going to tell you that cold isn't good for your engine, because we aren't warrantying your engine...we are warrantying your supercharger.

Cliff's Notes version: Don't be a knucklehead and bounce the car off the rev limiter before it has warmed up to normal operating temps (in ANY weather, but especially when it is 25F and below) and most likely you'll never have an issue.

[MyRx]

Sorry to crash the thread but I just wanna say thanks! to the half dozen or so owners that I've inquired with regarding the Vortech. I have acquired the FR-S with the Vortech and I gotta say, what a blast! The 'grocery list' an owner gave me to ensure proper function was a snap and inspection passed with flying colors. No pulley rubbing, no extra noise/vibrations etc etc. You guys really know your stuff. I'm expecting an extra belt/pulley for those IF moments, thanks for that. The original owner took pride in ownership and meticulous care of the vehicle and I commend him for that. I just feel that the car needs to stretch its legs now

[paulbagz]

Hey guys, I am based in Australia and where I live the most common forms of pump fuel are 91, 95 and 98 octane.

Will there higher octane present any issues when doing further tuning on this kit?

Will running the 3.125 pulley and 98 net any decent gains over the stock 9psi pulley and 91/93 based fuel?

Cheers

-PB

[Sellout]

Originally Posted by paulbagz

Hey guys, I am based in Australia and where I live the most common forms of pump fuel are 91, 95 and 98 octane.

Will there higher octane present any issues when doing further tuning on this kit?

Will running the 3.125 pulley and 98 net any decent gains over the stock 9psi pulley and 91/93 based fuel?

Cheers

-PB

Read up. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Octane_...mber_.28RON.29

Your 98 is like 93 in the US.

[paulbagz]

Originally Posted by Sellout

Read up. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Octane_...mber_.28RON.29

Your 98 is like 93 in the US.

Ahh cheers for that, so look specifically for tunes etc that refer to their ratings in AKI/RON?

-PB

[Sellout]

Originally Posted by paulbagz

Ahh cheers for that, so look specifically for tunes etc that refer to their ratings in AKI/RON?

-PB

All you gotta do is be aware of the difference. If you're talking to a tuner in the US or you see a tune from the US that calls for a certain octane number, add 5 to it and that number will be the octane rating for australia...