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| Suspension | Chassis | Brakes -- Sponsored by 949 Racing Relating to suspension, chassis, and brakes. Sponsored by 949 Racing. |
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#15 |
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Banned
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You really don't want zero camber. Handles best with just a hair over (1)
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#16 | |
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Quote:
The only time you really want 0* of rear camber is in a drag car for best launch grip.
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#17 |
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Any cornering force at all is going to cause tire flex no matter how stiff the suspension is. Additionally, the camber doesn't gain a degree for every degree of body roll so every bit of roll causes a deficit.
If you don't start out with negative camber all the work gets done with the sidewall and outer part of the tread. Some cars are better than others, but everything needs camber, and the BRZ isn't anything special. |
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#18 |
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dont forget radial tire "camber thrust"....(wants to turn in the direction of the side of the tire most loaded)...equal in a straight line but as soon as weight transfer enters the picture a WHOLE new set of forces come into play!
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#19 | |
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Quote:
Since the OP had concerns of wearing out the insides, when alignment is done properly there is very little uneven wear. It will also help if you are not overly aggressive with the throttle either. Follow recommendations on tire rotation and you will be fine. You will be saving yourself some money from not having to buy and install those extra components. Also, what tire are your running? This will also determine how it will wear. But in the end, to each their own. It's your own car and money, and in no way am I telling how to spend. Just offering my opinion.
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#20 |
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Old thread, but will comment anyway.
Ideal camber is entirely subjective, on driving style, track/street, and tyre. I'm looking at Rear UCA options at the moment. As I currently have 2.3 Rear camber, but want 0.5 - 1.0. Little rear camber, street tyres, much nicer for sliding. They let go sooner at initiation, and have more forward grip/drive during the slide. |
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#21 |
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Racer X has been selling adjustable UCA's for a while now, they aren't cheap, but I'll be going with UCA's when I finally bite the bullet on suspension stuff.
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#22 |
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I have a set of the Racer X ones, they are very nice.
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#23 |
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trying to get to 0 camber with an lca will be impossible as you will run out of toe adjustment. so you will have to also get the toe links or the spc lower arm with the offset bushing to fix the toe.
however you can get to -1.2 with 1/16" toe in. http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=47291 |
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#24 |
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This is what I will go with next year.
http://racerxfabrication.com/product...trol_arms.html Get rid of those shit whiteline rear upper control arm bushings that are impossible to adjust.
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| The Following User Says Thank You to Dezoris For This Useful Post: | 448hpsti (09-26-2013) |
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#25 | |
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Just a dude
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YUP mine are coming OUT this weekend! Going with the WL non adjustable top bushings. NOTE** to anyone that ever wants to put back in (STOCK) bushings after your shop takes yours out KEEP EM if they're good. If you goto Subaru or Toyota they will NOT sell you a set, they will only sell you new stock UCA with their bushings you can not buy just the bushings. I went through this recently in my decision to remove the WL adjustable UCA bushings.
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#26 | |
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Quote:
good to know. Although im sure some aftermarket (nonadjustable) bushing should be available? +1 on the racer X upper arms, beautiful arms. wish i picked those up before i went with lowers- currently running both
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#27 |
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I like the racer-X except for the spherical bearing.... I wish they could do a standard ball joint on that unit. It may be too much for a daily driver...
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#28 |
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Just a dude
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I ended up ditching the Whiteline adjustable UCA bushings "junk IMO" and installing there non adjustable bushings 70-80 bones .. which fit great and now using a LCA and WL toe links finally got my rear camber and toe perfect. Learning lesson indeed...
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