Why do most people seem to think castrol edge titanium is a bad choice?

[mav1178]

Originally Posted by Sellout

You know, we are paying the API VERY well for what they do, and they have actually done well to make sure we have good oil for our cars.

"Which oil is best for my...?" Is about like asking which Ferrari you should buy to stand next to in front of the local Starbucks. They're all more than adequate. Seriously.

No kidding, right?

I currently use ENEOS 0W-20 because I had leftover oil from a previous purchase, and it was enough for a single oil change. I plan on using analysis to determine optimum oil change intervals, then stretching it out.

If the oil is semi-decent at even 10K miles use, I may just swap out filters at 5K and the overall cost of oil changes would be reduced. No point in swapping out oil if it's still good enough to protect.

-alex

[Dephective]

I didn't read the whole thread, and I'm not going to because it's a big pissing match. Oils are a grey area. People stay brand loyal regardless of data. Same logic can be applied to many other aspects of life. But I won't put anything in my car that says "FULL SYNTHETIC" because it's a misnomer. Full synthetic makes you think, "Oh, I've got a FULLY synthetic oil base, therefore it must protect better than shitty engineered crude oil stock." Wrong.

Full synthetic is nowhere near FULLY synthetic. 100% synthetic is what you want to look for. Brands like Amsoil, Redline and Motul all use 100% synthetic stock. Which is going to be much better than any "highly engineered" dino oil any day.

The best in terms of protection is by far 100% synthetic oils. They out perform in every department.

The most economical is more complicated. Are you going to need ridiculous shear protection as a daily driver who will never see the track? no. Would the occasional spirited drive require this kind of protection? probably not.

For this engine it has been documented that the recommended oil would be anything with a high moly content (molybdenum). If you pay attention to details, like me, you would ideally look for a 100% synthetic with a decent moly content. Motul 300v has a very high moly content to give you an example.

[Dephective]

Originally Posted by s0sl0w

Oh and he stated to avoid AMSOIL as they've had consistency issues.

Wrong, Amsoil is the top 3, without a doubt. Redline has consistency issues, to the point where the same product of two different batches would be completely different colors based on what supply of base stock was cheapest at the time. Amosil designs their own oils in house, whereas Redline uses a formula generated by a third party lubrication company and mass produces it. That being said, Redline is still one of the best. Because 5 engines don't blow up on the race track doesnt mean the oil was better. I'm sure if he opened them up and looked at the cylinder walls he would see substantial scoring, especially with mobil 1. Also, mobil 1 is terrible with fuel shear from DI motors, or FI applications. This has been documented across platforms ( VW, Audi, Mazda, Ford). I used it in my Speed 6 and it turned to water after 2,500 miles. I switched to Amsoil and it was black but still held it's viscosity.

[Suberman]

Originally Posted by Dephective

I didn't read the whole thread, and I'm not going to because it's a big pissing match. Oils are a grey area. People stay brand loyal regardless of data. Same logic can be applied to many other aspects of life. But I won't put anything in my car that says "FULL SYNTHETIC" because it's a misnomer. Full synthetic makes you think, "Oh, I've got a FULLY synthetic oil base, therefore it must protect better than shitty engineered crude oil stock." Wrong.

Full synthetic is nowhere near FULLY synthetic. 100% synthetic is what you want to look for. Brands like Amsoil, Redline and Motul all use 100% synthetic stock. Which is going to be much better than any "highly engineered" dino oil any day.

The best in terms of protection is by far 100% synthetic oils. They out perform in every department.

The most economical is more complicated. Are you going to need ridiculous shear protection as a daily driver who will never see the track? no. Would the occasional spirited drive require this kind of protection? probably not.

For this engine it has been documented that the recommended oil would be anything with a high moly content (molybdenum). If you pay attention to details, like me, you would ideally look for a 100% synthetic with a decent moly content. Motul 300v has a very high moly content to give you an example.

Castrol won this legal debate. You're just wrong about full v fully synthetic.

Engine oil is derived from hydrocarbons. It matters not whether you build your own from scratch or refine them out of crude oil base stocks. You probably think GM foods are inedible. Or maybe you only eat GM foods because naturally derived foods are inferior.

[Dephective]

Originally Posted by Suberman

Castrol won this legal debate. You're just wrong about full v fully synthetic.

Engine oil is derived from hydrocarbons. It matters not whether you build your own from scratch or refine them out of crude oil base stocks. You probably think GM foods are inedible. Or maybe you only eat GM foods because naturally derived foods are inferior.

Look at it this way. Could we make a hundred year old house into something that meets today's regulations and be up to code? Sure. Would it ultimately be better for longevity and from an economical standpoint to just start from scratch and exceed the minimum? You bet.

Going to back to refined dino oil or 100% synthetic esters for a bse stock, it's simple science that what we can make in a lab already holds up to extreme temperatures far better than regular dino oil, as well as repeated heat cycles, which is really the bigger issue with daily driven vehicles. You can throw all the additives you want at it, but at that point its like putting a bandaid on the real problem. Those additives become non functional over time, and then you are once again left with a base stock that is inferior. On the other hand when you throw additives at a 100% synthetic ester based oil, sure the same thing happens over time. Those additives wear away, but you are left with a superior (for this application anyway) base stock that has held up to shear much better, higher temperatures, and repeated heat cycles.

Sure you can say it's just a bunch of hydrocarbons. That doesn't mean anything. The important thing is how these hydrocarbon molecules are chained together in sequence, and the structure of the molecules.

and lol about GM foods. What I put in my body is far more important than what suffice to do the job in my car. You can enjoy your Monsanto products. I do my best to avoid them if at all possible.

[bluesubie]

Originally Posted by Dephective

Wrong, Amsoil is the top 3, without a doubt. Redline has consistency issues, to the point where the same product of two different batches would be completely different colors based on what supply of base stock was cheapest at the time. Amosil designs their own oils in house, whereas Redline uses a formula generated by a third party lubrication company and mass produces it. That being said, Redline is still one of the best. Because 5 engines don't blow up on the race track doesnt mean the oil was better. I'm sure if he opened them up and looked at the cylinder walls he would see substantial scoring, especially with mobil 1. Also, mobil 1 is terrible with fuel shear from DI motors, or FI applications. This has been documented across platforms ( VW, Audi, Mazda, Ford). I used it in my Speed 6 and it turned to water after 2,500 miles. I switched to Amsoil and it was black but still held it's viscosity.

I suppose that you have never toured Red Line's facility in Benicia, CA. Only a handful of companies (like ExxonMobil and Shell) make their own base stocks and blend their own oil. And both of those companies use additives supplied by a third party. There are only a handful of additive suppliers, like Lubrizol and Infineum, that supply additives to all of the oil companies for them to blend their oils.

Originally Posted by Suberman

Castrol won this legal debate. You're just wrong about full v fully synthetic.

There was no "legal" debate. This is a myth.

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=950311&page=1
"Synthetic", "Full Synthetic", "Fully Synthetic", "Super Duper Synthetic", whatever, are all definitely just marketing terms though.


It's all a moot point anyway since it's the oil's performance and the specs that it meets that matter most. Mobil1 can meet the world's strictest oil requirements using a Group III oil, but they also do use Group IV PAO's and Group V alkylated naphthalenes. Red Line and Motul make oils from Group V and VI as well, and there is probably some Group III in those as well (definitely in Motul 8100). Most oils these days are blends of 2 or 3 base stocks, regardless of the marketing on the label.

Shell's Group III GTL base stocks meet or even surpass Group IV base stocks performance in some areas (like NOACK volatility).

-Dennis

[ZionsWrath]

Was at walmart, only 0w-20 they have is Mobile High Mileage. Is it any good? Been using Eneos sustina from ebay but it is a lot more $ than this mobile, just curious. I don't mind paying more if it's better.

[bluesubie]

Originally Posted by ZionsWrath

Was at walmart, only 0w-20 they have is Mobile High Mileage. Is it any good? Been using Eneos sustina from ebay but it is a lot more $ than this mobile, just curious. I don't mind paying more if it's better.

I love oil threads because they usually cover 17 different topics.

That would be Mobil1 5W-20 High Mileage.
http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/...age_5W-20.aspx

I prefer High Mileage oils in my 2000 Impreza 2.5RS because HM oils usually have more seal conditioners and usually have higher anti-wear additive levels. That's why they usually only meet the old school API specs. In this case, M1 5W-20 HM meets the old school API SL spec. The HTHS viscosity is very good for a 20 grade oil (i.e. high-ish).
http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/...leage_Oil.aspx

If you want to follow the recommendations in your owner's manual for warranty purposes and use a girly man oil, use API SN Mobil1 0W-20. If you want to use an oil with as much ZDDP as Mobil1 0W-40 and meets API SL specs, use the HM oil. http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/...duct_Guide.pdf

-Dennis

[regal]

Originally Posted by bluesubie

I love oil threads because they usually cover 17 different topics.

That would be Mobil1 5W-20 High Mileage.
http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/...age_5W-20.aspx

I prefer High Mileage oils in my 2000 Impreza 2.5RS because HM oils usually have more seal conditioners and usually have higher anti-wear additive levels. That's why they usually only meet the old school API specs. In this case, M1 5W-20 HM meets the old school API SL spec. The HTHS viscosity is very good for a 20 grade oil (i.e. high-ish).
http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/...leage_Oil.aspx

If you want to follow the recommendations in your owner's manual for warranty purposes and use a girly man oil, use API SN Mobil1 0W-20. If you want to use an oil with as much ZDDP as Mobil1 0W-40 and meets API SL specs, use the HM oil. http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/...duct_Guide.pdf

-Dennis

Or use the Toyota 0W-20 with a 1/2 quart mobile 1 0w-30 racing oil, they are both made by mobile and compatible. The racing oil brings the ZDDP & moly up about 200 ppm and it has a great VI (engine runs great startup.)

[shawnhayes]

Originally Posted by Doborder

Hey Shawn,

Good to see u here on the BRZ forum. Didn't expect to see u here? Are u tracking this or the GTR nowadays? Anyways, always good to have adult supervision here!

See u around

Still with the GT-R. BRZ is fun around town. But, considering I'd probably lap myself at least once per session during a trackday with the GT-R, vs. the BRZ, not a trackstar car. Fun, but not fast.

Don't worry, there's plenty of adult talent on here. I recognize a few of the writing styles from bitog and nasioc, and there's quite a few Terry Dyson oil analyses going around in this crowd.

I myself started with API SC certified oil. The oils we have now by compared to what we had many moons ago is miles apart. Bargain basement wal-mart oil is better than what I started on, and I haven't had an engine give way due to excessive wear under 110,000 miles since my 1967 Ford Fairlaine 500. People have no idea how good they have it today.

Shawn



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