Install Day - P&L Equal Length Header and Perrin Motor Mounts

[siXXtoes]

Originally Posted by Hawaiian

Tell me about it. At 32k miles and a few Autox I NEED to change my brakes and fluid. Also, it's time for Stainless lines. I was waiting to do it all in one go.



I can fit my pinky in between the nub and the cat. My others, not as well. I can get my pinky in to about the nail by the crossmember before it gets too narrow.

I know what you mean. I've been under the car enough to not want to get back down there, but in the name of trying to help people I was willing to give it a go. Unfortunately I've had the heat shield off so many times that it seems I've messed up one of the bolt threads for the undertray. I will need to have it tapped. I blame the Harbor freight tools, and working on jack stands.



I don't know about a "nice video". When I watched it, it felt like a Michael Bay film. All shaky and filled with odd camera angles. It's a good thing I'm not Vtuned anymore or there would have been the matching explosions.

One more thing that I thought of while I was puttering around today (after I filmed the video). Stand in front of the car and imagine the header as your legs. Now put your left arm out at an angle to match the downpipe with your arm slighly bent. Holding that angle, lift your arm up and down by only rotating your shoulder. That's your Vband clamp. It gives you a bit of adjust-ability but when you're dealing with a 3cm space above the Cat, and a 2-3mm space under the overpipe it really needs to be spot on.

If your cat is contacting the block, then your "arm" is lifted too high. The Vband needs to rotate down a little. If it's contacting the cross member and pushed to the passenger side, it's rotated too far "down" and needs to rotate up a little.

As I said in the video, the easiest way for me to get everything perfect was to leave the Vband loose, and the rest of the exhaust as well. Then I locked the overpipe in place (because it has the smallest margin for error), once that was positioned properly, I tightened the front pipe to it (the bolt to the trans is still loose at this point), then I tightened the Vband down. The last step was the bolt to the trans hanger.

I also had a cross threaded screw that ultimately ruined the thread. As a result my skid plate was loose, and banging around. I thought that was the overpipe, but when my car was on the lift @ P&L I mentioned it to Tyler. He looked up and spotted the bolt right away. He started pounding my skidplate with his fist and it made a metal on metal rattling noise. He Bolted it all back the right way with an impact gun, and the last little noise went away.

If I can help even one or 2 of you with this issue, then it was worth the time spent under the car today.

Wow, you have so much more clearance than me on the overpipe. I left the vband loose, but still had issues. when i had enough overpipe clearance on the crossmember, the vband fit was way off. With the vband flush, i barley got a millimeter clearance. The guys at Infamous Performance did a great job and got the best clearance they could.

thx for the video

[OICU812]

Is P&L revising their OP? Grinding out sections of the subframe is not something I would want to do but certainly understand why you did. Looks awesome but why are those details not found in development?

[F1point4]

Originally Posted by OICU812

Is P&L revising their OP? Grinding out sections of the subframe is not something I would want to do but certainly understand why you did. Looks awesome but why are those details not found in development?

I never ground anything on my chassis. So far I just bent a piece a metal out of the way. I think the reason why P&L did not find this in R&D phase was because like any manufacturer, they just had to make their product fit with the OEM overpipe and their overpipe. It would be awesome if they bought all their competitors products to make sure they fit, but I understand why they didn't.

I talked to Dylan and he said they are investigating it right now.

[Hawaiian]

Originally Posted by F1point4

I never ground anything on my chassis. So far I just bent a piece a metal out of the way. I think the reason why P&L did not find this in R&D phase was because like any manufacturer, they just had to make their product fit with the OEM overpipe and their overpipe. It would be awesome if they bought all their competitors products to make sure they fit, but I understand why they didn't.

I talked to Dylan and he said they are investigating it right now.

I had my car in there all day the other day while I was at work, and they were taking more measurements and fabing a few things up.

[Mobius357]

Thing is though...if the header genuinely exits on location with the stock header...anything that works with the stock header would then work on the P&L. We should be able to position the downpipe flange to match the stock location within a reasonable margin.
@Hawaiian given that I have less clearance all around with the stock overpipe than you do with an aftermarket, maybe P&L's jigging isn't producing consistent weldments.

[charged86]

does anyone have the p and l catted with a motiv overpipe

[Dezoris]

Thanks for the amazing thread!! In my last video on track we have a bad vibration under full load left hand turns only. I also hear a faint knock cold starts. We were pretty confident it was the perrin over pipe hitting the sway bar (strano) but now it maybe frame from seeing this. Will report back on it. (Factory header)

[F1point4]

Originally Posted by Dezoris

Thanks for the amazing thread!! In my last video on track we have a bad vibration under full load left hand turns only. I also hear a faint knock cold starts. We were pretty confident it was the perrin over pipe hitting the sway bar (strano) but now it maybe frame from seeing this. Will report back on it. (Factory header)

Thanks, we are here to help each other out! Glad we have the support of vendors and other folks like @Hawaiian

[Dezoris]

Originally Posted by F1point4

Thanks, we are here to help each other out! Glad we have the support of vendors and other folks like @Hawaiian

I met him at my last autox. He was telling me all about PL which is only 40 minutes from me. I ruled them out because they were late to the FA20 party but now they clearly are on point.
Want to use them for something, sent my buddy there for his alignment after we installed his camber kit and said they were great.

[Hawaiian]

Sometimes i go on a bit... there should be more soon.

[F1point4]

Motor Mount Comparison

I don't have the means to record video of the engine while driving so idle videos will have to do. Despite this, you can see a clear difference in the mounts.

Note: the vehicle with the OEM mounts is NA, while my car with the Perrin Mounts is Vortech Supercharged. Logically, if the mounts were the same, the supercharged motor would vibrate more.

You can see my motor barely moves on ignition and during applications of throttle. My mate's car, his motor moves a bit.

Perrin Engine Mount
[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m4E0JH1KhiY"]86 Motor Mount Comparison - Perrin Performance Motor Mounts - YouTube[/ame]


OEM Engine Mount
[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CDw1XPzUqRU"]86 Motor Mount Comparison - OEM Motor Mounts - YouTube[/ame]

[wootwoot]

Does your top cover not fit with the Password JDM strut bar? Or did the mounts raise the engine a bit? Or is it just not on the car...?

[F1point4]

Originally Posted by wootwoot

Does your top cover not fit with the Password JDM strut bar? Or did the mounts raise the engine a bit? Or is it just not on the car...?

Just not in the car. I messed up one of the tabs trying to take it off, and it kinda moves when its in there. So i took it out.

Sorry for the confusion

[charged86]

Originally Posted by F1point4

Just not in the car. I messed up one of the tabs trying to take it off, and it kinda moves when its in there. So i took it out.

Sorry for the confusion

are you still having rattling problems? mine is horrendous im thinking of removing header and selling it