supra2nv's GT86 (inspired by 14R TRD Griffon, and a lil bit of NSX)

[Luis_GT]

Originally Posted by supra2nv

Shit...

Lol

When is my mono due to arrive??? Lol

Edit: I ordered custom titanium rods and billet pistons working with Crawford. I am trying to benchmark nsx-r ish type mods...FYI

[Anaxilus]

Rods, pistons, cams made by who?

Nothing to do w/ the cylinder heads/valves? What's Crawford's take on the airflow?

[ill86]

Originally Posted by Anaxilus

Rods, pistons, cams made by who?

Nothing to do w/ the cylinder heads/valves? What's Crawford's take on the airflow?

You will know soon enough. ..

[supra2nv]

Originally Posted by ill86

You will know soon enough. ..

i cannot wait to have more than 8k rpm on this bad boy...im asking for 9k lol

[torqdork]

Originally Posted by supra2nv

i cannot wait to have more than 8k rpm on this bad boy...im asking for 9k lol

With your mods, 8K should be cake. I think you might just exceed NSX specific power output per liter, too. As sweet as these things sound at 7.5K, 8K+ will be addictive.

[37]

Originally Posted by supra2nv

i cannot wait to have more than 8k rpm on this bad boy...im asking for 9k lol

What are the lift and duration specs on the cams? How much heavier are you going on the valve springs? Ti retainers?

What has Crawford said about his expectations with these parts?

Since you're throwing your warranty out the window anyway, any reason why you aren't going FI instead? I can't imagine those rods, pistons, cams, springs, retainers, and whatever tuning time Crawford chews up will be cheap.

Torque in the FA20 falls sharply after ~6700 RPM so it'll be interesting to see if you gain RPMs for the sake of not bouncing off the rev limiter or if you actually carry power out further to make use of the noise.

[supra2nv]

Originally Posted by modifier

What are the lift and duration specs on the cams? How much heavier are you going on the valve springs? Ti retainers?

What has Crawford said about his expectations with these parts?

Since you're throwing your warranty out the window anyway, any reason why you aren't going FI instead? I can't imagine those rods, pistons, cams, springs, retainers, and whatever tuning time Crawford chews up will be cheap.

Torque in the FA20 falls sharply after ~6700 RPM so it'll be interesting to see if you gain RPMs for the sake of not bouncing off the rev limiter or if you actually carry power out further to make use of the noise.

I like naturally aspirated, revvy, light, quick, it's my thing, i love bikes, i'm not allowed to buy one, cars are my loophole

my car has already had its ECU tuned (needed to quench my palette for a bit), so I eliminated the torque dip, i have some more hp and torque, and the power band looks more consistent now less choppy than stock, at least with my Layman approach to looking at my dyno graph lol. my brain tells me its fantastic already by simply getting in the darn car and driving it lol, and the engine internal mod can only add, is my guess...but time will tell are there comps? my gut tells me this car will be so fun to drive, it is already

PS: I inquired about titanium valves this morning...

[37]

Originally Posted by supra2nv

...and the engine internal mod can only add, is my guess...but time will tell are there comps? my gut tells me this car will be so fun to drive, it is already

PS: I inquired about titanium valves this morning...

Internals should only be necessary in places where high RPMs truly stress components. It's unknown what the stock components can handle but it's safe to assume the valvetrain is the limiting point. Cams, valve springs, and lightweight retainers might be all that are needed. Rods and pistons could be overkill unless you're going significantly lighter (which I assume is your reasoning).

My only concern is that while it's certainly possible to build a 9000 RPM powerplant, there might not be any benefit in power. It might just make more noise. On a road course it could save from having to shift as often if you're able to carry speed for another 1000 RPM before the next corner. But, I don't see this turning into a track car with how much you've invested into it.

Ti valves sound like a bad idea unless they're VERY well made and of the right alloy. My question was about Ti retainers, and good ones at that. These typically need to be light weight to prevent valve float at higher RPMs.

It might be a while but I'd love to see the before and after dynos on your project to compare the lightweight parts. I'm very curious to see what happens to the torque curve after 7000.

Good luck!

[ill86]

Sometimes cars get built behind closed doors.

This is one of those times. He's just being nice enough to drop breadcrumbs to tease anyone reading.. Lol

I'm consulting and encouraging his build because it is a very special case. :-)

I'm sure he will continue to share findings and Crawford will post when ready if it all necessary.

Stay tuned.. ;-)

[nzer]

@supra2nv and @zephyr69 are your TRD strut braces fitted with the brackets in front of it (ie: strut brace bolted to the back) like mine, or with the brackets at the back (ie: strut brace bolted to the front).

I've got a mate and his is fitted with the brackets on the other side from mine. Mine seems to me under tension the way it is. Not sure which fitment is correct.

Here's a photo of the brackets on mine showing the strut brace behind the brackets. What's yours like?

[zephyr69]

Originally Posted by nzer

@supra2nv and @zephyr69 are your TRD strut braces fitted with the brackets in front of it (ie: strut brace bolted to the back) like mine, or with the brackets at the back (ie: strut brace bolted to the front).

I've got a mate and his is fitted with the brackets on the other side from mine. Mine seems to me under tension the way it is. Not sure which fitment is correct.

Here's a photo of the brackets on mine showing the strut brace behind the brackets. What's yours like?

Hi, nzer. Mine is fitted as shown in the picture below taken from speedhunters TRD 86 democar. So this is the correct way of it being installed. The strut bar should be in front of the brackets and not the other way around.

[nzer]

Originally Posted by zephyr69

Hi, nzer. Mine is fitted as shown in the picture below taken from speedhunters TRD 86 democar. So this is the correct way of it being installed. The strut bar should be in front of the brackets and not the other way around.

Yours looks the same as mine with the black brackets in front of the strut brace. You sure yours is behind the brackets?

[zephyr69]

Originally Posted by nzer

Yours looks the same as mine with the black brackets in front of the strut brace. You sure yours is behind the brackets?

Ah ok I know exactly what you mean now..lol. sorry for the confusion, mine installed just like yours. I've checked my car and pictures of TRD demo car and both have black brackets in front of the strut brace. So your strut brace is installed correctly. I am sure of this. Not 100% sure if it makes a difference, but its probably best that your mate goes and gets his fixed.

[nzer]

Thanks @zephyr69. Does yours look like it is under a bit of tension? Mine has a slight bow in it as it looks like it is pre-stressed how it is installed.
@supra2nv is yours straight or does it have a slight tension bow in it?