Suspension Tips, for those who want to lower this car.

[OrbitalEllipses]

Originally Posted by Racecomp Engineering

Most won't do that and I understand why. Perhaps someone will release a non-adjustable bushing for that location. Still sucks to install but you don't have to worry about adjusting it and save some money and you're alignment guy won't hate you.

- Andrew

http://www.whiteline.com.au/product_..._number=W63225

Ask and you shall receive. That appears to be a race durometer (black color) non-adjustable bushing for that location. Even links to the same install guide as the camber-adjusting bushing.

[whataboutbob]

Originally Posted by OrbitalEllipses

http://www.whiteline.com.au/product_..._number=W63225

Ask and you shall receive. That appears to be a race durometer (black color) non-adjustable bushing for that location. Even links to the same install guide as the camber-adjusting bushing.

Correct!

[robispec]

this all looks good

[Jetscape]

Thanks for the great technical info. I would like to ask how changing to 18x18.5(front and rear) square set up or 18x.8.5(front), 18x9.5(rear) staggered setup affects total ride dynamics of the 86. This on stock height and springs. This seems to be a popular setup in most 86. Thanks.

Originally Posted by Moto-P

Increasing, or changing tires sizes both in width and diameter has consequences that change many different variables, and simply raising the contact patch should not be taken lightly or be treated as a fix-all solution. Increased tire contact patch also means less ability for the tires to reach proper temperature, and reduced grip over loose surface as rain and snow, and even dirt.

I think to keep the inherent balance of power and handling of the FRS/BRZ, the tire size change should be minimal, regardless of going with 16", 17" or 18" to keep the same diameter, and relatively small widths. 225's and 235 width should be plenty for a light FRS, to be fun and agile as universal car. Going beyond this only if there is a specific purpose in various field of REAL racing.

[ATL BRZ]

Why isn't this thread a sticky?

[normanb21]

Sticky this mofo!!! I have an frs and I just bought some 17x8 xxr 527 wheels(19.1lbs) and went with a 245/40/17 94xL(23lbs)michelin pilot super sports all the way around. I also just installed the subaru camber crash bolt. The car rides much better which was a surprise to me, I was expecting a firmer ride. As for performance, the car feels much better during turn-in and holding mid corner but it does feel like the car kinda snaps loose now instead of a controlled slide. Its not a huge difference, its still a controlled slide, just a little harder to figure out when those rears will break loose. Any ideas why? I also need to lower the car a bit but want to keep that little oversteer. What kind of springs,spring rates, and drop am I looking for to keep the stock suspension characteristics with these new wheels and tires on my car?

[ATL BRZ]

Originally Posted by normanb21

Sticky this mofo!!! I have an frs and I just bought some 17x8 xxr 527 wheels(19.1lbs) and went with a 245/40/17 94xL(23lbs)michelin pilot super sports all the way around. I also just installed the subaru camber crash bolt. The car rides much better which was a surprise to me, I was expecting a firmer ride. As for performance, the car feels much better during turn-in and holding mid corner but it does feel like the car kinda snaps loose now instead of a controlled slide. Its not a huge difference, its still a controlled slide, just a little harder to figure out when those rears will break loose. Any ideas why? I also need to lower the car a bit but want to keep that little oversteer. What kind of springs,spring rates, and drop am I looking for to keep the stock suspension characteristics with these new wheels and tires on my car?

RCE Yellows and RCE Sways. 22mm drop, 250 lbs front and rear and they put the OEM struts in the 65% critically damped sweet spot. Sways set stiffer in the rear and softer in the front. Oversteer is still there at the limit of adhesion and is predictable. Body roll is gone. Turn in is razor sharp. Ride height is perfect for practicality and performance.

[normanb21]

Forgot to add a pic of my car. It looks a little taller but according to the wheel size and tire size, its still the same.

[Iamthebatman]

Bump for a thread I think everyone needs to read! Thanks Moto-P and ATL BRZ!

[bkblitzed]

yup ordered swift springs with my 17x9 rpf1's with 245 tires.

[Wilso]

anyone have thoughts on these? http://ft86speedfactory.com/tein-s-t...rings-118.html

[Moto-P]

Originally Posted by Hanzo

What springs do you recommend if I just want lower it slightly with stock shocks (btw I have a brz).

RS*R just came out with economical Lowering Springs that work fine with the stock shock absorbers too

[Moto-P]

Originally Posted by Bmore_Raven86

Hey Moto what brand would you recommend if you just want a lowering springs?

RS-R has lowering springs for the FR-S and BRZ, it's called the Super-Down Sus, and it drops the cars about 30-40mm. They work with stock shock absorbers, and have different rate sets of progressive spring matched with different part# and rates for the FRS and BRZ to match to even the slightest difference in the two cars OEM shocks.

[SurfAndSand]

Originally Posted by Moto-P

RS-R has lowering springs for the FR-S and BRZ, it's called the Super-Down Sus, and it drops the cars about 30-40mm. They work with stock shock absorbers, and have different rate sets of progressive spring matched with different part# and rates for the FRS and BRZ to match to even the slightest difference in the two cars OEM shocks.

Do you mean lower the car and maintain handling capabilities?

Or

Lower car for aesthetic purposes and at least not destroy the suspension?