Strano Performance Parts 22mm Tubular front swaybar

[Dezoris]

Originally Posted by simpleisbest

Found these online from Misumi (Japan's version of McMaster-Carr):
Part Number: SCSPJ20-8
https://docs.google.com/viewer?url=h...%2Fp1_0233.pdf

They're shaft collars are round and seem low profile. I might give them a try once I get the replacement bar from Sam.

Thanks I will try those instead. And for anyone who is using this bar just know if you use any type of aftermarket over pipe the collars won't work.

Sam needs to either integrate the collars into the bar design or at the very least offer lower profile removable collars. Because eventually someone else will complain. (free product improvement advice) The later option would cost next to nothing. Oh and include some instructions!!

[G_Ride]

Originally Posted by qoncept

So... can we skip them? I'm fairly certain I can hear them occasionally and I'd rather just take them off than file them if they aren't necessary.

Probably as the Hotchkis bar doesn't use shaft collars http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=39003

[celica73]

Originally Posted by Dezoris

Sam, I know you work hard etc. But have to just point out the fact that the split collars you are using are grinding into the metal support frame as collar rotates as we discussed and they are much too large to fit any type aftermarket overripe setup.

Most people who have been asking me about the bar, I highly recommend it but am honest about the issues because you never responded.

Does your version of the bar allow the collars to fit on the OUTSIDE of the bushing?

Works great for me. I'm using some steel collars from Amazon (I got mine before the bar came with collars).

[G_Ride]

Originally Posted by celica73

Does your version of the bar allow the collars to fit on the OUTSIDE of the bushing?

Works great for me. I'm using some steel collars from Amazon (I got mine before the bar came with collars).

Which ones did you get from amazon?

[celica73]

Originally Posted by G_Ride

Which ones did you get from amazon?

[ame="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0063KYWJQ/ref=oh_details_o07_s01_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1"]Ruland SP-14-F Two-Piece Clamping Shaft Collar, Black Oxide Steel, .875" Bore, 1 5/8" OD, 1/2" Width (Pack of 2): Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific[/ame]

[GTB/ZR-1]

My issue has been the long factory links are causing contact of the body @ full lock. Is anyone else having this issue? I can live with it--just not ideal...


Thx

[Dezoris]

Originally Posted by GTB/ZR-1

My issue has been the long factory links are causing contact of the body @ full lock. Is anyone else having this issue? I can live with it--just not ideal...


Thx

Mine also does this, contacts the control arms. Just grind down the bar.
Not ideal. I am at full lock <1% of the time but still should be corrected.

[Dezoris]

Originally Posted by celica73

Does your version of the bar allow the collars to fit on the OUTSIDE of the bushing?

Works great for me. I'm using some steel collars from Amazon (I got mine before the bar came with collars).

I will have to try that and let you know.

[apexaddict]

Originally Posted by GTB/ZR-1

My issue has been the long factory links are causing contact of the body @ full lock. Is anyone else having this issue? I can live with it--just not ideal...


Thx

I just swapped my top mounts yesterday, and I didn't see any contact between the endlink and the body. I know some people have reported this, so I checked it when the strut was out, and saw no scoring or scratching on the unibody from the link. I also turned the wheel from lock to lock when it was in the air - it's close but doesn't touch. I think this is going to vary a lot depending on the parts being used in the suspension and also what the alignment settings are - i.e. a lot of camber/caster at the top mount (thereby moving the whole strut in) would increase the risk of this.

Regarding the collars, I've put mine against the bushings on the outsides (the side facing the strut) and the bar hasn't walked, nor have the collars moved on the bar. It probably shouldn't matter what side they go on, but my original thought was to put them on the outside just so they were easily serviceable. I've driven the hell out of the car, too - I DD it and autocross it pretty heavily.

[Kido1986]

Originally Posted by GTB/ZR-1

My issue has been the long factory links are causing contact of the body @ full lock. Is anyone else having this issue? I can live with it--just not ideal...


Thx

Originally Posted by Dezoris

Mine also does this, contacts the control arms. Just grind down the bar.
Not ideal. I am at full lock <1% of the time but still should be corrected.

Same here. It's more noticeable on the stock wheels than the lower offset autocross set too. Only happens close to full lock so it's not too big of a deal.

[enigma]

Ordered my bar about a week and a half ago. Looking forward to getting it on in time for the next local autocross event! Any ETA on when the next batch is going to be available?

[Sam Strano]

Shipment is headed my way. Hope to see them late this, or early next week. So you should get it by the end of next week unless the tractor trailer crashes or something.

[enigma]

Originally Posted by Sam Strano

Shipment is headed my way. Hope to see them late this, or early next week. So you should get it by the end of next week unless the tractor trailer crashes or something.

Awesome! Looking forward to getting it on!

[A_CENT11]

Nice! I ordered mustang parts for you a couple years ago, now that I see you have parts for the FRS I have to put a package together! Top notch!!