Am I Ordering The Right Detailing Supplies

[Skippman]

I currently have only detailing supplies I bought at Autozone over the years. They're great for a Jeep Wrangler, but not so much for my new BRZ. I recently had it Opti-Coated and had an Xpel Ultimate clear bra added and want to keep it all looking good. This is the list my detailer made for me when I asked him what I should get. I'm just wanting to see if you all agree.

2 5 Gallon Buckets
Optimum No Rinse Wash & Wax 128 oz.
Optimum Opti-Mitt 8 Inch Foam Wash Mitt
The Grit Guard Insert – Blue
Optimum Opti-Bond Tire Gel 32 oz. Free Bonus!
Shine & Buff Waterless Wash Towel, 6 Pack
Miracle Towel, 16 x 24 inches Buy One, Get One Free!
Optimum Leather Protectant 17 oz.

All of this is from Autogeek.

[Zach3794]

The 2 bucket system your detailer recommended for you is a good one. I've expanded on it a bit further and personally use a 3 bucket system, especially since my FR-S is black. Two buckets are for the body and the last is for wheels. I marked the wheel bucket as such so that I will never use it on paint. I use 1 grit guard in each body bucket. Use one bucket to rinse and the other to recharge with fresh soapy water. Also use a separate wash mitt/brush or whatever for the wheels.

When you go to dry the car, personally I also designate separate towels for body/wheels. I use a color coding system for this. Green for body, yellow for interior, blue for glass, and red for wheels. This way you never get brake dust or anything else from wheels and rub it into paint, residue from wax/interior chemicals streaking your glass, etc.

[Paul_S]

Your list is a good start. You can eliminate one bucket and grit guard if you check out the Garry Dean wash method. With Garry's set-up after your wash media touches a dirty surface it never re-enters the bucket. I started years ago with two buckets and grit guards and switched last year. Saves time and is safer IMO. You selection of Optimum products is wise and they won't disappoint.

[FnFast]

Good start! I would add a few more items for your arsenal though.

Bug Sponge - really helps remove bug from front bumper w/o the need of getting on your mitt. [ame="http://www.amazon.com/0-25-406-Bug-Remover-Sponge/dp/B00331QS2W/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1372617621&sr=8-3&keywords=bug+sponge"]Amazon.com: Bug Remover Sponge: Automotive[/ame]


Clay bar - This is your secret weapon against those stubborn "stain", road tar, bug stains, rail rust and etc. This is your best bang for buck. [ame="http://www.amazon.com/Griots-Garage-11153-Paint-Cleaning/dp/B003POLA84/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1372617717&sr=8-4&keywords=clay+bar"]Amazon.com: Griot's Garage 11153 Paint Cleaning Clay 8 FL.OZ: Automotive[/ame]



Viking Waffle Towel - Can dry your entire car! [ame="http://www.amazon.com/Viking-Microfiber-Waffle-Weave-Drying/dp/B001Q8DMA0/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1372617818&sr= 1-2&keywords=waffle+weave+towel"]Viking Microfiber Waffle Weave Drying Towel - 9 Square Feet : Amazon.com : Automotive[/ame]

[Zach3794]

Adding to what FnFast is suggesting with the clay bar..it's important to remember that a clay bar is meant to strip. It will remove stains, road tar, bug stains, rail rust and all that bad stuff, but it will also remove wax, especially in more aggressive grades. When I clay, I clay the whole car and re-wax so that the amount of protection on the car is still even.

[Skippman]

Originally Posted by Zach3794

Adding to what FnFast is suggesting with the clay bar..it's important to remember that a clay bar is meant to strip. It will remove stains, road tar, bug stains, rail rust and all that bad stuff, but it will also remove wax, especially in more aggressive grades. When I clay, I clay the whole car and re-wax so that the amount of protection on the car is still even.

At this point I'd almost consider leaving the clay barring to the professionals without someone showing me in person how to use one. I'd ask the guy who did my Opti-Coat but he's a 2 hour drive away from me so that's right out.

[FnFast]

Originally Posted by Skippman

At this point I'd almost consider leaving the clay barring to the professionals without someone showing me in person how to use one. I'd ask the guy who did my Opti-Coat but he's a 2 hour drive away from me so that's right out.

It's easier than waxing your car man. All you do is spray a panel of your car after washing with detail spray, then rub in perpendicular patterns. Every panel or heavy debris spots, just remold it like you did with play-doo. That's it.

You can't mess it up. Just if you drop the claybar throw that piece away and get a new one.

[Zach3794]

Originally Posted by FnFast

It's easier than waxing your car man. All you do is spray a panel of your car after washing with detail spray, then rub in perpendicular patterns. Every panel or heavy debris spots, just remold it like you did with play-doo. That's it.

You can't mess it up. Just if you drop the claybar throw that piece away and get a new one.

What he said, almost impossible to mess up. The only way to do harm is by dropping it and reusing it or rubbing too hard. Just make sure you use plenty of quick detailer and glide the clay over the surface lightly until there is no resistance. Wipe off residue, make sure hands are dry and test feel panel. If it feels like you're running your hand over glass, you know it's doing it's job! And I mean clean, new glass, not dirty glass!

[Paul_S]

Claying a car is one of the simplest operations you can perform on your car. Go to your local auto parts store and pick up a box from Meguiars or Mothers. Read the instructions. It's not rocket science. Now claying , depending on the hardness of the paint , can cause micro-marring of the paint. When this occurs then a little polishing is in order.