Whiteline Com-c top mounts

[feldy]

^this. Aftermark top hats make noise. These whiteline ones. If they only make noise when leaving the house then fine I can live with that.

[BlaineWasHere]

Originally Posted by OrbitalEllipses

You said you wanted adjustment. The Com-C is NOT adjustable, it is shaped such that it locates the strut differently, adding both camber and caster in a STATIC (unchangeable) manner. Furthermore, the solid-mounted nature of camber plates means that they will make more noise as they are metal-metal instead of using rubber to isolate suspension noise/harshness.

If you get proper (non-stack-height altering) camber plates, you will not LOSE suspension travel. You can also cut your bumpstops if you're still using the stock ones. TIC (Turn In Concepts) sells the camber plates you're looking for if you want to NOT lose travel AND adjust camber/caster. @Racecomp Engineering also sells some, but they've been out of stock forever I hear; perhaps Andrew or Myles could better explain what I'm saying.

EDIT: http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=29567

Ok, good info! Thanks! I don't give a shit about noise. It's my DD but it's also my racecar. As soon as it's paid off it'll get a nice German sedan parked next to it. For now I suffer.

[autobrz]

Can anyone confirm they have the new batch of the com c and they no longer have the bearing seizing when turning the wheel,or if they still ran into the problem?

[cnk]

I have the new Comp-C's and the only noise I get is a pop when first backing out of my driveway for the day. After that, they are quiet. No idea why they pop, but as long as that's the only noise, I'm fine with it.

[Calum]

Originally Posted by cnk

I have the new Comp-C's and the only noise I get is a pop when first backing out of my driveway for the day. After that, they are quiet. No idea why they pop, but as long as that's the only noise, I'm fine with it.

They pop because the bearing is seized. The sound is the spring unwinding after the bearing lets go. Mine did the same for a few days, just when I did the first turn of the trip. After a while though it was every time I turned the wheel more then about 30 degrees.

[Calum]

Originally Posted by autobrz

Can anyone confirm they have the new batch of the com c and they no longer have the bearing seizing when turning the wheel,or if they still ran into the problem?

I'm really curious about this to. It's such a great product idea, if only they could get a decent bearing in there.

[cnk]

Originally Posted by Calum

They pop because the bearing is seized. The sound is the spring unwinding after the bearing lets go. Mine did the same for a few days, just when I did the first turn of the trip. After a while though it was every time I turned the wheel more then about 30 degrees.

Oh well, if it does get worse I guess I'll give them one more try with a warranty replacement or just swap them out for Group-N mounts and be done with it.

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[feldy]

Originally Posted by Calum

They pop because the bearing is seized. The sound is the spring unwinding after the bearing lets go. Mine did the same for a few days, just when I did the first turn of the trip. After a while though it was every time I turned the wheel more then about 30 degrees.

Do you know how long it took for these to get worse? I mean from popping in the morning to all the time?

[Calum]

Originally Posted by feldy

Do you know how long it took for these to get worse? I mean from popping in the morning to all the time?

If memory serves me, it was about 500 kms and about 5 days.

[makinen]

As I recall @ATL BRZ 's post in his build thread, the alignment is critical in the installing process.

Originally Posted by ATL BRZ

No, I asked Whiteline's US contact and they said no conical washer is required. However I would recommend using spring compressors even if you have lowering springs to install the top mounts. It's critical that you get the upper spring perch aligned correctly below where the threads on the strut shaft start before you thread the nut on with a pass-thru socket and long allen socket to hold the shaft still.

Also, I do not recommend using camber bolts with the Com-C's. I didn't like the strut geometry they were creating with the new top mounts when pushing the rotors up to get the camber from the bolts. It just didn't look or feel right, so I put the stock fat upper strut mounting bolt back in and it looked right with plenty of negative camber.

[feldy]

I'm not using whiteline camber bolts anymore but I am using the Subaru crash bolts. -2.5 degrees of camber up front. I have a few thousand miles on them now and the clunking on this second set is getting worse. I made the mistake of driving on some gravel roads yesterday. It just made it worse now I get clunking on every left turn I make regardless of how much the wheel is turned.

Is anyone clunk free?

[mikalem]

Originally Posted by feldy

I'm not using whiteline camber bolts anymore but I am using the Subaru crash bolts. -2.5 degrees of camber up front. I have a few thousand miles on them now and the clunking on this second set is getting worse. I made the mistake of driving on some gravel roads yesterday. It just made it worse now I get clunking on every left turn I make regardless of how much the wheel is turned.

Is anyone clunk free?

I'm a little over a week into my second set, but I used the stock bolts on setup - around -1.2 degree's up front and so far no noise.

[feldy]

Cool keep me posted also are you on stock shocks or koni yellows?

[mikalem]

Stock, with rce yellows

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