Weird Sound After Coilover Install (when moving steering wheel left and right)

[taimysho0]

Originally Posted by Calum

you need these to prevent coil bind.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ha...-109/overview/

do coilover normally come with those? i noticed theres a washer on the bottom but not at the top. another thing i should mention is my coilovers came are with swift springs so the shop i bought them from switched out the stance springs with coil springs. were they supposed to include that washer at the top? thanks

[Calum]

Originally Posted by taimysho0

do coilover normally come with those? i noticed theres a washer on the bottom but not at the top. another thing i should mention is my coilovers came are with swift springs so the shop i bought them from switched out the stance springs with coil springs. were they supposed to include that washer at the top? thanks

No, most don't. The top mounts used with most coilovers use a spherical bearing at the top. These are certainly strong enough for the axial load they are used for in a coilover, but they can bind when you turn the wheel. This causes the spring to wind and unwind as you turn the wheel. Once the spring winds and unwinds enough that the bearing is easier to move then the spring, you get that clunk sound as the bearing lets go and the spring untensions.

[taimysho0]

Originally Posted by Calum

you need these to prevent coil bind.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ha...-109/overview/

Any diys in this? What is the long term effect if I don't install this? I tightened the top nut to 17 lbs and it seems to lessen the noise. Also my springs actually don't move freely at all when jacked up

[wparsons]

All you have to do to install those is pull the coilover out, remove the top hat, put the roller bearing on the spring, put the top hat back on, reinstall it in the car.

The reason this happens is because the spring seats don't have a bearing in them like stock so the spring can't spin easily as the strut turns with the wheel.

There's not really any longterm damage, but it can make handling a bit funky as the spring binds and unwinds in a corner.

You can try just greasing the spring where it meets the spring perch and upper seat, but the bearings are a better long term solution.

[RazBRZ]

I don't have coils and I'm getting the exact same thing. It's been bugging the ever living F out of me. Current set-up. Turn In Concepts Derlin steering rack bushings and 245/40/17 on 17x8 wheels. Everything else is stock. Same deal. Only happens when it's on the ground and when turning the wheel back and forth. Reminds my of the sound and feel of a torque wrench.

[OrbitalEllipses]

Originally Posted by Calum

you need these to prevent coil bind.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ha...-109/overview/

Huh. I'm gonna bug Myles about these...

[Calum]

Originally Posted by OrbitalEllipses

Huh. I'm gonna bug Myles about these...

With your group-n mounts you shouldn't need them. If you had a mount with a 'pillow ball' bearing that's when they become useful.

[Propaganda]

Originally Posted by OrbitalEllipses

Huh. I'm gonna bug Myles about these...

My only issue about this style bearing is that they can dry out and need to be lubricated again.

Happened to me after I decided to DD the car through the winter... so all the salt dried it out. Still provides much less binding, but it's just a little noisy now.

[SMOKETREES]

Originally Posted by taimysho0

Any diys in this? What is the long term effect if I don't install this? I tightened the top nut to 17 lbs and it seems to lessen the noise. Also my springs actually don't move freely at all when jacked up

I get the noise and adjusted the preload on the spring and most of it is gone. I need to do a little more adjusting on my rear driver side but as others said, with coil-bind turning does feel a little weird and that noise will get VERY VERY annoying!

[RAWR BRZ]

Not preload. I think its your endlinks binding. Mine makes a grrrr sound when i turn it and its my endlinks for the swaybars. You have to make sure it can pop in and out easily when car is lifted. When it is lifted it should be neutral/no load on the sways.

[YDNA]

most likely it is your end links for the sway bay rubbing onto the control arm. i had this issue too and had my friend cut and weld mine for me. currently no issues on the car and would be a lot cheaper solution than buying new end links (from what i heard even the whitelines rub as well)

[Calum]

It confuses me to no end why they designed the sway bar like this. They could have kept the arms straight, and had shorter endlinks. It would have saved materials in productions, made the sway bar two bends easier to produce, and cut a little weight front the front of the car. Not to mention eliminating this issue. I'm also surprised that RCE doesn't offer a straight arm bar and endlink combo yet. In an aftermarket application it would also make the adjustable bars actually able to adjust the rate of the bar without needing extreme endlink angles.

[FastLane1000]

Just in case it helps someone. Here is my fix. It looked like it was gonna hit for sure and I didn't want to take it apart a second time to change or shorten the endlinks. I cut off the second adjustment hole on the Hotchkis kit. I wasn't going to use it anyways. No noises whatsoever. Very happy with the handling now.

[qoncept]

Originally Posted by empower-auto

furthermore, have your coilovers professionally installed if you are not extremely sure of what you are doing. this isn't meant to be condescending but just sound advice to make sure you don't lose a lot of $$$ and time by making a critical error.

There are 5 bolts per strut. It's not rocket science. Get all those in place and torqued and you aren't going to have a catastrophic failure. It's really one of the easiest installs you can do.