Koyo Radiator vs Oil Cooler

[FRS-Chief]

Originally Posted by ATL BRZ

What I don't understand is why the oil cooler kits cost 2x as much as a big ass aluminum radiator from Koyo...

You can buy generic oil coolers on jegs alot cheaper

[zoomzoomers]

Like everyone else, how hot our cars run does bother me a lot, but I'm going to hold off a bit more to see what comes down the pipe. I've got a lot of hope on that one (can't remember who's making/testing it) that uses similar set up as the OEM oil cooler for the other Subaru models (Outback was it?). Should be much cheaper and less complex than the other kits I've seen since the kit/parts are available as we speak. Of course, if you're a serious track star then one of the ones on the mkt now might be a better bet, but I'm not in that category and just want something that will keep the temps down at a reasonable level.

Sorry, I can't provide more info, but I'm in between meetings right now and my brain is fried.

[Dezoris]

If you guys need data I have it. I installed the Koyo first on a stock car to monitor. What the radiator did was allow coolant temps to recover more quickly in open air. It does not heat soak as fast. However once you are in low speed idle situation or in dirty air temps wil rise similar to stock but recover much faster.

Radiator fan will cycle on at 212F. Stock rad the recovery time was twice as long as the Koyo before temps would drop. And stock you could see temps cycling between 212F and 220F in idle and autox However in clean air it was rare to see temps much above 210F.

The Koyo did not help oil temps in any measurable way. As soon as oil temps started to climb they would not recover. After the mocal/perrin oil temps rarely climb above 205F in any street driving and that is supercharged. Before the cooler after about 3 high RPM runs oil would spike to 230F immediately.

So I would recommend the oil cooler first. Its more effective.

[Dezoris]

btw all the data is backed up from logs no BS.

[Evasive Motorsports]

Oil cooler will help the most because u are adding a bigger volume then stock. Also the oil cooler will keep the temps down.

[Accurate Race Shop]

Originally Posted by Dezoris

btw all the data is backed up from logs no BS.

I have the koyorad on the car I bought an oil cooler first but I'm waiting on all the parts to install it. I was wondering your opinion on getting a cheaper cooler and the mocal sandwich plate. It is pretty simple technology as far as the cooler goes so I couldn't justify spending over about $200 for the whole oil cooler setup. I got the same sandwich plate everyone else is using just a cheap 13 row cooler. Am I missing any huge advancement in the actual cooler in the last few years?

[Dezoris]

Originally Posted by jasper

I have the koyorad on the car I bought an oil cooler first but I'm waiting on all the parts to install it. I was wondering your opinion on getting a cheaper cooler and the mocal sandwich plate. It is pretty simple technology as far as the cooler goes so I couldn't justify spending over about $200 for the whole oil cooler setup. I got the same sandwich plate everyone else is using just a cheap 13 row cooler. Am I missing any huge advancement in the actual cooler in the last few years?

I would stick with a setrab or mocal cooler personally, which you can get for around $130 for a small unit only because it becomes a critical piece.
You can also make sure you one that you can mount easily.

Just remember though doing stainless lines and good fittings is expensive. Thats about $250 right there.

[wootwoot]

I guess I'll ask: what it the optimum oil temp in everyones opinion?

I think perrin mentioned they saw a performance loss at 230F. But too cool is just as bad as too hot. So where so we draw the line?

[Accurate Race Shop]

Originally Posted by Dezoris

I would stick with a setrab or mocal cooler personally, which you can get for around $130 for a small unit only because it becomes a critical piece.
You can also make sure you one that you can mount easily.

Just remember though doing stainless lines and good fittings is expensive. Thats about $250 right there.

Thanks!

I'm going to use all stainless AN fittings and high temp and pressure stainless braided teflon lines. I'm a hydraulics mechanic for air craft so I can get the lines and fittings for next to nothing with our discount. I believe the one I have is a setrab it's still in the box. Thanks for the input I just didn't know if there was something new that made them cool better. I was seeing it that you are paying for better welds nicer fittings and less possibilities of corrosion not really any better cooling.

[Captain Snooze]

Originally Posted by ATL BRZ

What I don't understand is why the oil cooler kits cost 2x as much as a big ass aluminum radiator from Koyo...

You can buy the parts individually and put it together yourself for less. I am happy to pay for the convenience of getting a quality kit. Also remember that Perrin is a business not a charity. No business = no Perrin

My 2 cents.

[Accurate Race Shop]

Originally Posted by Captain Snooze

You can buy the parts individually and put it together yourself for less. I am happy to pay for the convenience of getting a quality kit. Also remember that Perrin is a business not a charity. No business = no Perrin

My 2 cents.

Really if you do not know how to properly build the lines to last I agree you should just buy a complete kit. But you can get the lines and fittings around $80 cheaper if you know how to install them. It only takes me a few minutes to put fittings on a hose but I do it all the time at work because making one is cheaper and faster than ordering a pre built one.

Sent from my Q10

[Dezoris]

Originally Posted by wootwoot

I guess I'll ask: what it the optimum oil temp in everyones opinion?

I think perrin mentioned they saw a performance loss at 230F. But too cool is just as bad as too hot. So where so we draw the line?

I talked to a few more people involved in spec teams. 215-235 seems to be the magic number for track. If you are running 0w20 obviously lower is better. if you start seeing higher temps switch oil weight.

For daily driving 185 to 215F is optimal. After testing this is totally reasonable if you have a cooler behind the bumper. For the Perrin kit in front and center you will see the oil temp stuck around 165-175F until you go WOT to 6000RPM a few times. From there it will go right to about 185F.

If you idle, no clean air it will climb on its own. The settling point should be coolant and oil temps almost identical for daily driving. 190 to 195F.

Winter will be a different story...

[Dezoris]

Originally Posted by Captain Snooze

You can buy the parts individually and put it together yourself for less. I am happy to pay for the convenience of getting a quality kit. Also remember that Perrin is a business not a charity. No business = no Perrin

My 2 cents.

I bought the Perrin kit and if I did it again I probably would still do it just for the ease of mounting. The good thing is I can always re locate the cooler and build new lines if I choose. But you have to deal with making a solid mounting solution.

So just depends. The aeroquip hoses Perrin uses are good for track and street but if it was a track only car I would switch to stainless right away. Which is more for secuirty and abrasion resistance.

[Accurate Race Shop]

If you guys call parker hydraulics and tell them what your looking for they normally have really good prices on lines and fittings and they sell some really good quality stuff.

Sent from my Q10