Diff or axle noise?

[blsfrs]

This noise just recently started. It's only heard during acceleration. Definitely in the rear of the car and maybe louder on the left side. No changes with left or right turns.

I've jacked up the left side. No play in the wheel, hub, axle, and drive shaft; all seem tight. Any ideas?

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1lZL...aYx6hZn7z&ca=1

[bmacfrs]

I'd get the entire rear off the ground and run it in gear to see if you're still getting it. Be ready with one of those noise finder stethoscope things to pinpoint the source. Gently applying a little e-brake to create resistance may make a difference too.

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[Spairo]

Sounds exactly like my drivers side CV joint when it went bad. I could not get to make any noise on the lift, could not find a loose anything. Had a local shop drive it with chassis ears and they at least eliminated the diff and driveshaft carrier bearing. I finally swapped the driver's side axle and voila, no more noise.

Between now and the first weekend in March, I will be pulling both axles and tearing them down and re-greasing them.

Good luck.

Go fast, take chances.

[blsfrs]

Originally Posted by Spairo

Sounds exactly like my drivers side CV joint when it went bad. I could not get to make any noise on the lift, could not find a loose anything. Had a local shop drive it with chassis ears and they at least eliminated the diff and driveshaft carrier bearing. I finally swapped the driver's side axle and voila, no more noise.

Between now and the first weekend in March, I will be pulling both axles and tearing them down and re-greasing them.

Good luck.

Go fast, take chances.

Now that the weather is a little nicer, I took the FRS out for a test drive and the noise faded away. Gremlins again. If it comes back I'll swap out the axle (or the gremlins).

[Muskoka800]

Protect that CV from heat.
I put header wrap on ~18” of the exhaust where it runs under the drivers side axle. No CV issues after many summer track days.

[blsfrs]

My noise has evolved. I've had a couple of instances where I felt a shuttering in the car. The first time, I thought it was a misfire but no cel and it cleared up after I stopped at a light and took off again. Yesterday, I was driving on the interstate and felt it again but it cleared up once I stopped at the bottom of the exit ramp and started moving again.

Per previous suggestions, I ran the car jacked up. My videographer felt the recorded noise was more from the hubs rather than the diff. The bearings are new. My plan is to replace both axles.

https://www.youtube.com/shorts/mf3p21q3jjY

Note: It's quiet when rolling except when it's not.

[blsfrs]

I put in a new OEM axle. No noise now. Took a test drive, no problems. The cv joint "felt good". Not loose or anything.

[Spairo]

Glad that took care of it. Your first noise sounded just like mine. How was it getting the axle out of the hub?

Go fast, take chances

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[NoHaveMSG]

Originally Posted by Spairo

Glad that took care of it. Your first noise sounded just like mine. How was it getting the axle out of the hub?

Go fast, take chances

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I find it’s easiest to disconnect the lca and trailing arm from the knuckle. Pop the cv out of the diff. Loosely reconnect the lca back to the knuckle and then tap the axle out with a rubber mallet.

[Spairo]

For mine, I ended up using one of the tools that attach to the lug studs and has a drive screw that pushes on the end of the axle. I cranked down on the drive screw, gave the end of the screw a few wacks with a hammer and then left it with pressure on it for 30-60 minutes. I would come back, crank a quarter turn, wack it and leave. It took a lot of cycles of that and finally the rust and everything else started to release. This was all after trying heat, penetrating fluid, swearing, praying and anything else I could think of.

Needless to say, everything got thoroughly cleaned and went back together with a thin coat of anti-seize. Future axle services were MUCH easier.

Go fast, take chances.

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[NoHaveMSG]

Originally Posted by Spairo

For mine, I ended up using one of the tools that attach to the lug studs and has a drive screw that pushes on the end of the axle. I cranked down on the drive screw, gave the end of the screw a few wacks with a hammer and then left it with pressure on it for 30-60 minutes. I would come back, crank a quarter turn, wack it and leave. It took a lot of cycles of that and finally the rust and everything else started to release. This was all after trying heat, penetrating fluid, swearing, praying and anything else I could think of.

Needless to say, everything got thoroughly cleaned and went back together with a thin coat of anti-seize. Future axle services were MUCH easier.

Go fast, take chances.

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Weird, I have never had one come apart that hard before and regionally I have worse weather. I’ve swapped mine at the track between sessions when I blew off a boot.

[Spairo]

Did yours get a lot of road miles before you committed it to the track? Mine was a year round daily for a few years in the Mid-Atlantic.

Go Fast, Take Chances

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[NoHaveMSG]

Originally Posted by Spairo

Did yours get a lot of road miles before you committed it to the track? Mine was a year round daily for a few years in the Mid-Atlantic.

Go Fast, Take Chances

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It had 30k on it when I bought, probably put another 30k on it before I took it to the track.

[blsfrs]

Mine came out pretty easily. I had replaced the bearings about 3 months ago. A couple of years ago, I repacked the CV's but with 100k miles and 30 more so track days on them, I should have just replaced the axles from the get go.

Several years ago, I had a 97 Outback. I had to take the axle and hub to a shop to get them to press the apart.