Summer Tires

[Flame9020]

Originally Posted by B-R-Z

I just bought a second set of Michelin Pilot Super Sports for my XXR 527's. I keep Blizzaks on my stock wheels and swap them each season.

You should get a set of used TPMS sensors, I spent around $20 for mine. You then need a tool to write the id's to your ECU when you make your wheel swap.

Ya I have blizzaks currently on my stock wheels as well. What do the TPMS sensors do? What is the advantage?

[SCQTT]

Tire Rack has stamped steel wheels for about $70 each.

Peel your winter tires off and put summer tires on your OE wheels. When the fall rolls back around order the steels and put your winter tires on them. I never run the TPMS sensors in my winter tires they are a nanny state fix for brain dead texters that sorta drive while they are doing more important stuff. Just like a back-up camera, if you need one you should not be driving.

The steels will be better for potholes anyhow.

Since you will be running your winter tires 4-5 months out of the year you can go more aggressive on your summer tires. Splitting your use between two sets of tires means they typically last a very long time. Almost anything you buy that is summer (meaning NOT all season) will be a big improvement.

Tire Racks rating system is very valuable when choosing tires, it represents millions of miles of owners use. Simply cross reference the tire that meets your needs, with the highest rating, a brand you like, and a price that fits your budget. Viola!

Your new tires will be summer only.....Remember grooves and sipping and for water and ice/snow only. On dry pavement 100% smooth "slick" tires give you the best traction. Tires conform to the pavement, grooves take away traction, they do not increase it. Summer tires will look much different than all season tires, the grooves in summer tires are only there to evacuate water and help prevent hydroplaning.




I prefer the Michelin Pilot Super Sports, they are $132 each in 225/45/17. But look at the tire rack info....The are rated #1 out of 30 summer tires...and have been driven over seven million miles by the folks that filled out the survey.

Tire Rack is based in Indiana BTW.

[Keenercarguy]

They monitor if the pressure in your tires falls below a "safe" inflation pressure. Just good to have if you are bad about checking your pressures somewhat regularly: which is a habit you should get into either way. They also keep a somewhat annoying warning light from popping up on your dashboard. They're nice to have but not strictly necessary. Also sumitomo's have pretty damn soft sidewalls, and for just a bit more money you can get something a good bit better, just my two cents. Honestly if you're already running snow tires on your stocks, then get Indy 500's or Pilot Super Sports (best tire I can see for what you seem to need).

Also, like SCQTT mentioned, DON'T buy all seasons, they are the ultimate compromise (not particularly good in the summer OR the winter) and comparably worthless. However I would suggest getting GOOD aftermarket wheels if you want to change your style up, spice of life right? Just buy Super Sports lol

[churchx]

Keenercarguy: there is case when all seasons with them being compromise sitting in middle ARE the best. - In places with warm winters, where average temperature fluctuates about +10 - -5C. There they grip as good as true soft winter tires, wear better. Due this being international forum with users coming from world wide, with climates being very different, i won't strike out all season tires completely for anybody here. They might be subpar in places with "real" winters, but that doesn't make bad choice anywhere. If one doesn't see real cold, ice & snow, no need to trade extra grip for weather one won't see at expense of increased wear/extra price (for top offerings)/mushiness & handling (due soft rubber compound of real winter tires).

[SCQTT]

churchx, but in the context here, he lives where it snows, and already has a set of snow tires All Season tires make little sense. As Keenercarguy mentions they are a compromise. They are a compromise all over the globe, in all conditions. Not good for ice/snow and not good for summer performance driving. Perhaps OK all around...which is why they are popular, but not optimum. If you live in a place that gets cold and snowy and can justify winter tires....do NOT make the mistake of running all season tires in the summer.

[B-R-Z]

Originally Posted by Flame9020

Ya I have blizzaks currently on my stock wheels as well. What do the TPMS sensors do? What is the advantage?

If you do not install sensors on your aftermarket wheels, your tpms light will light up and remain on until you put your factory wheels back on. You also do not have a notification for when you have a tire that is low on pressure, as someone has already mentioned--the notification light will be always lit.

What you need to do is find used sensors on eBay, write down the sensor id number that is printed on each one and then you give them to the shop mounting the tires on your new wheels.

You also need a tool to read your factory wheel sensor ids from your stock wheels since you cannot visually see the ids unless you remove the tires and look at the sensor. This tool will also write your aftermarket wheel sensor ids to the ecu. Whenever you swap wheels you will have to update the codes on your ecu with this tool. I used the ATEQ QuickSet. There is a thread somewhere and i have pictures posted of everything.

[SCQTT]

Originally Posted by B-R-Z

If you do not install sensors on your aftermarket wheels, your tpms light will light up and remain on until you put your factory wheels back on. You also do not have a notification for when you have a tire that is low on pressure, as someone has already mentioned--the notification light will be always lit.

What you need to do is find used sensors on eBay, write down the sensor id number that is printed on each one and then you give them to the shop mounting the tires on your new wheels.

You also need a tool to read your factory wheel sensor ids from your stock wheels since you cannot visually see the ids unless you remove the tires and look at the sensor. This tool will also write your aftermarket wheel sensor ids to the ecu. Whenever you swap wheels you will have to update the codes on your ecu with this tool. I used the ATEQ QuickSet. There is a thread somewhere and i have pictures posted of everything.

Or you could just do what people did for 100 years prior to TPMS and visually look at your tires every couple days and pay attention to how the car handles when you drive. I check my pressure once a month myself and if you count when I get the oil changed they probably get checked 15+ times a year.

The TPMS systems are a direct result of the Firestone/Explorer debacle where brain dead consumers would drive around with overloaded vehicles and underinflated tires and would kill themselves when their top heavy vehicle did a header after a blowout.

Don't get me started on back up cameras.

[B-R-Z]

Originally Posted by SCQTT

Or you could just do what people did for 100 years prior to TPMS and visually look at your tires every couple days and pay attention to how the car handles when you drive. I check my pressure once a month myself and if you count when I get the oil changed they probably get checked 15+ times a year.

The TPMS systems are a direct result of the Firestone/Explorer debacle where brain dead consumers would drive around with overloaded vehicles and underinflated tires and would kill themselves when their top heavy vehicle did a header after a blowout.

Don't get me started on back up cameras.

Yes, I also recommend checking pressure manually. It's more of an issue with my OCD. I do not like a light being on in the dash (CEL,TPMS,etc). I think it's reasonable to install sensors if the TPMS system is there.

[_sams86_]

ProxesT1 Sports have done well for me.

[Clipdat]

I really liked the set that I had as well!

Originally Posted by __Shamy__

ProxesT1 Sports have done well for me.

[strat61caster]

Just my 2 cents (with respect to 17" wheels), stick with 215's on a 7" wheel, cheaper tire, better responsiveness, and as such a bit more fun.

A 225 looks and feels fine on a 7.5" and likely an 8", but imo the only reason to cram it on a 7" is due to competition rules. They look a bit like balloons from what I've seen.

Other than that, lots of reviews and tests out there, anything reputable should be satisfactory in this day and age. Happy with my MPSS so far but only a few thousand miles on them.

Originally Posted by Keenercarguy

They monitor if the pressure in your tires falls below a "safe" inflation pressure.

~27 psi is where my light trips, just as an anecdote.

Underflated enough that it could cause problems, not low enough for the average driver to notice.

[Somerandom18]

Keep an eye out for XL load range tires as well. They have thicker sidewall which is good because reasons.

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

[Keenercarguy]

Originally Posted by strat61caster

Just my 2 cents (with respect to 17" wheels), stick with 215's on a 7" wheel, cheaper tire, better responsiveness, and as such a bit more fun.

A 225 looks and feels fine on a 7.5" and likely an 8", but imo the only reason to cram it on a 7" is due to competition rules. They look a bit like balloons from what I've seen.

Other than that, lots of reviews and tests out there, anything reputable should be satisfactory in this day and age. Happy with my MPSS so far but only a few thousand miles on them.



~27 psi is where my light trips, just as an anecdote.

Underflated enough that it could cause problems, not low enough for the average driver to notice.

My 225/45/17's certainly don't ballon, but the 235/40/17 road coarse slicks I run on my spare 7.5-wides, for racing, do a bit (I got them for a steal and they've served me well, don't judge lol). Most 225/45/17 tires were DESIGNED to run on 7.5-wide wheels (really! Check the "measured rim width" on tirerack, there's a reason for that). And to the point that this is an international forum that serves all kinds of climates I say: Yes(!) BUT! We already know that this particular thread is intended to help someone who has made their climate clear, they have dedicated snow tires already(!) so all seasons are not the answer. If someone had asked about "warm winter" tires I would have suggested BFG's performance all season offering for their "winter" set (my girlfriend runs them in Vermont for spring/fall for her daily, when it isn't snowing) and I'd still suggest a dedicated summer tire like the Pilot Supersport for their warmest seasons.

Also I'll give an anecdote for/against PSS's: I have gone through three sets of them in my 75,000 miles on my MY2013 BRZ... And I run dedicated wheels and tires for all racing events: so those are just street miles. I have run other sets in that 75,000 miles as well. I like the PSS the best for a street tire: but if you drive the car "hard" (properly) ALL THE TIME on them they can burn off in under 13,000 miles. That's the only reason I suggest hardier tires like the Indy 500 to people who don't need 100% performance 100% of the time.

[strat61caster]

Originally Posted by Keenercarguy

Most 225/45/17 tires were DESIGNED to run on 7.5-wide wheels (really! Check the "measured rim width" on tirerack, there's a reason for that).

That was pretty much my only point. I've read quite a few people complaining about good tires having poor responsiveness and trashing them when the reality is they crammed a 225 on a 7" wheel because the internet said it was faster than a 215.



I've seen RE71R's on 7" in person (autox), but here's pics of MPSS, Azenis, and ZISS for anyone interested in what I'm talking about. I'm not saying it's a bad decision, just realize you're giving up feel & responsiveness for contact patch, which imo is silly if you're not trying to set a fast time.

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showp...1&postcount=46
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showp...6&postcount=55
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showp...0&postcount=41

But this is all a moot point given that the OP looks to be getting 17x7.5 which imo is good for a 225.