Is it true I have to wring out the motor if I want to accelerate?

[VTRTWIN]

Originally Posted by Wonderbar

Just buy the Perrin intake tube for just over $100 bucks and delete all the junk

http://www.perrinperformance.com/brz...brz-inlet-hose

If you go the Perrin intake tube route will doing so impact the warranty?

[BSH]

Originally Posted by Lonewolf

Is it true that I need to lubricate before I penetrate?

Some of the threads here lately...crimony

ROFL!!!

[Freude am Fahren]

Originally Posted by Skywgn1

You can also purchase the Dynosty sound tube delete kit. 30-40 bucks

Or you can spend like 1.50 and get a plug for the hole in the cabin. Did wonders. Doesn't clean up the engine bay though. For that you could probably find the appropriate bits at Lowe's for less.

[radroach]

Originally Posted by autobrz

The annoying thing is the intake resonator makes the cabin pretty loud at high rpms. It's discouraging me from going to the high revs. I gotta plug that up, soon!

Are you still on factory break in oil? The engine sounds nicer after a fresh oil change.

Radio really helps.

To make the car sound good, the important thing is to not rush it or try to go fast, the car's fine trotting along going slower than a camry or ford, but the power band will come to life at times and show some really good acceleration and sound if you take your time and let it happen not try to force it.

[radroach]

Originally Posted by Ganthrithor

Hahaha, you should see how it feels up at 8k feet. It frequently feels not very fast. I'm excited to see what it will drive like at sea level.

I'm up in colorado right now. car is slooww here!

At sealevel, try and get near redline; going downhill while entering the interstate, on 93 gas on a cool night at sealevel you'll get an awesome intake roar.

[autobrz]

lol... I'm used to a v6 and a v8 so it was definitely a "culture shock" when I realized I can't drive this car the same. But when I think about the S2000, this car has way more low-end torque to help it move along. So it's not that bad compared to the really peaky honda motors.

I find for an auto, if I care about acceleration, I need to drive it in manual mode to select my own gears so the tranny isn't constantly upshifting and downshifting and annoying the crap out of me. Not that it's a bad auto at all. It actually shifts pretty fast. It's just programmed for fuel economy in full auto.

[Fett4Real]

I think my wife's focus we traded in had more lowers torque sadly. But I mean can the focus drift? Can the focus hold a candle I the 86? Does it look as pretty? The same can be said for most cars. The car was built with upgrades in mind. Some like to go the NA route. A few bolt ons will get you a little power but honestly I think your kidding yourself if you don't go Forced induction if you feel slow. When I get in the TL and have "torque" or t least more torque its nice but the car in comparison is squishy and fat in comparison. It handles well enough but not like the 86. The steering and braking are sloppy. Go ahead ad complain but for every complaint there is a solution you just have to be willing to fix it by spending some time and money. The potential of this car is awesome. And you all know it or you wouldn't be here.

[autobrz]

it's not really a complaint to have to adjust to driving a small displacement high revving motor and asking about it but I'm only speaking for myself, lol... we're talking about how to drive the brz so it can accelerate faster in regular city traffic not bitching about having to drive that way...

[WolfpackS2k]

Originally Posted by spdfreak

I definitely beat on this motor more than I did my mazdaspeed6. Just to get it to move similarly in traffic I tend to get it up to 6k rpm in 1st otherwise I'll hit that torque dip in 2nd.

That's not necessarily a bad thing. It's just a different style of driving. The thing really moves when you hit those upper rpm. I swear this car rewards abuse.

That drives me crazy to no end (having to shift as 6000 in first gear to avoid the torque dip). The only way to avoid the torque dip effects are to shift really low and just cruise around or shift really high and really zip along. No inbetween.

[Turbowned]

Just treat the throttle like an ON/OFF switch, you should be fine

[Wonderbar]

Originally Posted by VTRTWIN

If you go the Perrin intake tube route will doing so impact the warranty?

It depends on your dealership. I'd personally say there is no way in hell it could as it only replaces a plastic tube.

It's very easy to swap back to stock if you need to.

[sho220]

Originally Posted by DatApex

So, just like pretty much every other performance motor, then. F1 cars make peak power at around 12,500rpm.

EDIT: Just looked it up, it's actually 19,000rpm in modern F1 cars.

I said you have to beat the piss out of it to get it moving. I didn't say "moving fast" lol...just...moving...and I can't imagine ever categorizing it as a "performance motor"...unless the qualifications of being considered a performance motor include being weak, rattly, chirpy, etc...the engine is the absolute weakest part of this car imo...

[RurumariGhost]

Originally Posted by Mitch

Reminds me I need to make a thrust chart for this car.

please post it when you do!

[RurumariGhost]

Originally Posted by Marchy

Hey guuysssss, i find that i have to push down on the right pedal to go fast.


IS THIS NORMAL?