Is it true I have to wring out the motor if I want to accelerate?
 

I feel like the reason why I feel like the brz is really really slow is because I'm used to driving cars that make more torque and peak power at lower rpms. I probably just need to use more throttle (because mine is auto) to get more power out of the FA20.

The annoying thing is the intake resonator makes the cabin pretty loud at high rpms. It's discouraging me from going to the high revs. I gotta plug that up, soon!

Thats what the stereo is there for, to hide the crappy engine sounds

Yes this is usually the cas with high revving motors ie fc20 except our cars actally make more tq down low than normal 4 bangers do

In general, I find the FRS/BRZ similar to a small CC motorcycle.. you just need to get the revs up to be in the power band. I don't have any experience with the AT model so I have no idea what tips there are to keep engine in the right gear/rpm but I'm sure you can find that info here.

Usually, it doesn't start waking up until 4.5k to 5K stock..

And, yes, definitely plug up the sound tube. It cost me ~ 1-2 bucks and it makes a huge difference (and the stereo sounds twice as good instantly). Plus, if you get a tune or mods, you get to actually hear the engine realistically.

Just buy the Perrin intake tube for just over $100 bucks and delete all the junk

http://www.perrinperformance.com/brz...brz-inlet-hose

Yes. You have to beat the piss out of it to get it moving. "Proud of Boxer"? Ummmm...no. :bonk:

You can also purchase the Dynosty sound tube delete kit. 30-40 bucks

So, just like pretty much every other performance motor, then. F1 cars make peak power at around 12,500rpm. :)

EDIT: Just looked it up, it's actually 19,000rpm in modern F1 cars.

If you're coming from a V6/V8/V10/V12, you will not get used to having so little torque near idle.

If you're coming from a turbo 4 cylinder, you will be used to having so little torque near idle, but never get used to having no power up top.

If you're coming from a regular 4 cylinder, you're right at home.

I downgraded on power to switch to this platform. Instead of missing the extra oomph, just enjoy the chassis for its brilliancy. Kill the sound tube if you don't like it. Fastest acceleration will come from wringing the engine out. I honestly can't think of any modern cars that benefit from shifting before redline, but I've seen it in the past on cars with restrictive intake manifolds. It's a simple calculation if you have Excel, by the way. Just need a torque curve and gear ratios (weight, tire rolling radius, coefficient of drag, and frontal area if you want to see everything, and want to compare to other cars). Reminds me I need to make a thrust chart for this car.

The car I'm coming from was 4cyl 2.0t and make 288 WTQ at 3700 (peak) and makes over 200WTQ from 2,100 on. So I'm used to a 4cyl turbo that had gobs of torque near idle.

I don't regret my slowmobile, sometimes it's more fun to work hard to go fast... err I mean less slow!

Hahaha, you should see how it feels up at 8k feet. It frequently feels not very fast. I'm excited to see what it will drive like at sea level.

I definitely beat on this motor more than I did my mazdaspeed6. Just to get it to move similarly in traffic I tend to get it up to 6k rpm in 1st otherwise I'll hit that torque dip in 2nd.

That's not necessarily a bad thing. It's just a different style of driving. The thing really moves when you hit those upper rpm. I swear this car rewards abuse.

Is it true that I need to lubricate before I penetrate?

Some of the threads here lately...crimony