FR-S Debadging Tutorial

[jshadeck]

Originally Posted by Anorax

Like the 86 badge on the rear. Considering it for my BRZ, but not sure it'll cover the pins...

Front Subaru badge would be a nightmare, since its indented.

The 86 fender badge in place of the scion/subaru? Yes it covers the holes, but u have to remove the pins from the 86 badge as they dont line up

[Techfl3x]

Totally agree with @Fizzle. I spent a long time trying to remove the front badge without damaging the paint. Unfortunately I failed and chipped some paint off in the process it should be covered by the T badges though once they arrive. Don't be afraid to pull the badge hard to snap off the pins ( once all the adhesive is detached first )

[Jaknar]

Awesome post, Looking at starting the re-badge in February. Was wondering on the steering wheel. Since the part with the scion badge is on a moveable plate, would it not be easier to just replace that plate; then the whole steering wheel. If that is even possible?

Haven't had my fr-s for very long, forgive my ignorance if it was already stated.

[TechGuru]

I am suprised no one has mentioned doing this but this is what I would do.

Change the Scion emblem to the standard Toyota emblem, now here is where I go different, I would also change the FR-S emblem to a SUPRA emblem.

Why? Because I think this car should have been the new Supra, it should have been Toyota and it should have offered a twin turbo V6 or at least a turbo on the 4 cyl and it should have been called a Supra.

[campy]

Originally Posted by TechGuru

I am suprised no one has mentioned doing this but this is what I would do.

Change the Scion emblem to the standard Toyota emblem, now here is where I go different, I would also change the FR-S emblem to a SUPRA emblem.

Why? Because I think this car should have been the new Supra, it should have been Toyota and it should have offered a twin turbo V6 or at least a turbo on the 4 cyl and it should have been called a Supra.

To each their own, but isn't Toyota talking about making a new Supra in the future? It'll be a hybrid like the new NSX and RX7

[jshadeck]

A little off topic, but, this isnt a new supra, the only relation this car has to a supra is toyota/rwd/coupe. Wouldnt that also mean the IS C is a new supra? And before that the SC430?

[Fizzle]

Originally Posted by jshadeck

A little off topic, but, this isnt a new supra, the only relation this car has to a supra is toyota/rwd/coupe. Wouldnt that also mean the IS C is a new supra? And before that the SC430?

Agreed. And this car are made in relation to the ae86 and it pretty much drive exactly like how well the ae86 does. So if anything the only relation of frs n supra is the similar coupe look that they have...

[jshadeck]

Id love to see toyota take the fr-s, widen the four corners out a bit for some 235 or 245 up front and 275 out back, and do something engine wise, maybe a twin turbo boxer 6 cyl? And make it a lift back, THEN call it a supra. Id buy that if it was under 60k

[campy]

Originally Posted by jshadeck

Id love to see toyota take the fr-s, widen the four corners out a bit for some 235 or 245 up front and 275 out back, and do something engine wise, maybe a twin turbo boxer 6 cyl? And make it a lift back, THEN call it a supra. Id buy that if it was under 60k

They're saying the next Supra will be priced to compete with the GT-R. So expect $80k-$100k

[jshadeck]

Yea, i know, i was just wishing

It also will be much better than my suggestion though. What i described was along the lines of what they did w celica/ celica supras back in the day. Not an all newly designed car. Its ok, ill have an frs turbo either way

[Mac1235]

Originally Posted by avusblue

Well, I finally got the side "Boxer 86" emblem installed on the back, and I think it looks great.

Ordered the emblem from the parts counter at my Toyota dealer: $41.01. Part number SU003-03125:



Here's the "before":



Got out my fine-point panel removal tool, a soft, lint-free wipe, and some goo-gone:



Using the correct tool for the job is very important for any job. In this case it made emblem removal a piece of cake. The old emblem came off in a jiffy and did not mar the surface whatsoever. Super easy. Took 10 seconds. I think it was helped by the 100-degree heat we had today. Used my fingers to roll up the small amount of "goo" left behind. Barely needed the goo-gone:



Note the two peg-holes and the small dimple in the trunk lid molding. This dimple makes it very easy to align and center the replacement emblem. Also note, the alignment pegs on the new emblem are the opposite layout as the original emblem:



Easily remedied with a needle nose pliers -- I just broke off the pegs from the new emblem:



Carefully aligned the new emblem, peel, and stick. I did use a pencil to very lightly mark where to line it up, just as a precaution. Voila!:



Here's another view:



Last step -- remove the FR-S emblem to complete the clean-up of the rear view. It came off just as easily as the other one:



So, I'm very happy with the effect. To me it nicely simplifies, and visually cleans up, the rear perspective of the car.

Cheers,

Dave

How did you prepare the surface before putting on the new emblems? Do you wax then apply or strip all the wax and then apply them?

[xWiCkeDx]

Originally Posted by Godzilla35

-Heatgun will be fine as long as you don't bake in the paint in one area for a long time, remember the paint / clearcoat is cured in heat. But, using a less harsh hairdrier and/or leaving the car in the sun will definitely help the process.

-If you're thinking about doing this... sooner the better as cars actually do get "tan" lines supposedly, although I've waited up to 1-2 years when de-badging with perfect results.

-I would not use paint thinner or any harsh chemicals, especially on a brand new car. You can use Goo GONE, but PLEASE make sure you don't confuse this with GOOF off... completely different results (you won't like what happens). If you are patient and use your finger to rub off the glue / peel patiently, it's not so bad. NO DIGGING WITH NAILS. If you're impatient, than use goo gone or a citrus cleaner (better in my opinion but takes longer than goo gone). WD40 works too to help loosen the glue, but I think it makes it hard to "grip" it.

-I use flat dental floss (you'll go through a few strands, because it will break) and a slow side-to-side sawing motion, with liberal heat applied. Again, sun is your friend getting the emblem off and getting the glue off... so take breaks and let it do the work for you.

-don't pull or pry like Darren did (no offense) cuz that can definitely scratch / chip the clear / paint.

1) Spray down cracks / edges with a LOT of WD40 / Goo Gone / Citrus cleaner
2) let soak (in sun preferably)
3) cut pieces of floss (or fishing line if you fish for fish and have fishing line already for fish)
4) heat the emblem in circular motions (don't stay in one spot too long --- more important if you have a heatgun -- hair dryer has smaller margin of error)
5) careful, don't burn your hand off, and "saw" through the glue / double-sided tape trying to stay as close to the paint to help you get rid of residuals. Go slow to help reduce breakage of line/floss and to prevent marring.
6) CLEAN, (repeating soak / heat / wipe with microfiber), and detail / polish / wax / whatever to your heart's content.


Optional, put Turbo logo to signify upgraded model that no one else has, or dares to race....

I have no idea why you did just check for holes before you did this, but I think I read somewhere the Toyota one should line up. I will wait, personally, for other cool options. I hope they make a roundel for the 86 logo like the one on the JDM steering wheel.

Followed these directions and it worked like a charm. Only difficulty was the damn front badge, because of the push nuts in the back. I didn't feel like taking the bumper off, so I just pulled until the pins broke.

Also when he means let the goo gone soak, really let it soak for at least a good 5-10 minutes in the sun and use a lot of it.
I've done it to two cars now and first time I didn't really let it soak much was a bitch. Second time was a lot easier after letting soak for 10 minutes.

[Suffa]

I want to debadge and paint black and put back on. Is it better to leave the goo on and reheat abit before i put the badge back on so as to use the original adhesive? Or should i remove the goo and use new adhesive and what adhesive to be used?

[jshadeck]

Originally Posted by Suffa

I want to debadge and paint black and put back on. Is it better to leave the goo on and reheat abit before i put the badge back on so as to use the original adhesive? Or should i remove the goo and use new adhesive and what adhesive to be used?

I would personally use new adhesive. Im sure theres options, but i have some "scotch extreme mounting tape" used to hold mailboxes to the side of your house, so its weather proof etc and its black and very similar to the stuff i pulled off my badges i think