Track Setup

[APEX Race Parts]

Adjustable camber plates are the solution. As mentioned, camber/crash bolts are a band-aid fix and can only net you so much camber. More importantly, they sacrifice inner clearance between the tire and the suspension where space is already very limited.

Adjustable camber plates will give you a broader range of adjustment (better handling and more consistent tire wear on track) AND will not sacrifice inner clearance since everything moves in harmony. Camber plates pay for themselves very quickly in the form of tire longevity, so the benefits + ROI are there.

- Ryan

[PikachuBRZ]

Sorry for grave digging but after camber adjustments were there any more problems with rubbing?

[SCFD]

Originally Posted by PikachuBRZ

Sorry for grave digging but after camber adjustments were there any more problems with rubbing?

Rubbing or not largely depends on how you're getting your camber. When using camber plates, the clearance between the wheel/tire and spring/strut remains the same. When using camber bolts to dial-in negative camber, you're reducing the clearance between the wheel/tire and the spring/strut.

[PikachuBRZ]

Originally Posted by SCFD

Rubbing or not largely depends on how you're getting your camber. When using camber plates, the clearance between the wheel/tire and spring/strut remains the same. When using camber bolts to dial-in negative camber, you're reducing the clearance between the wheel/tire and the spring/strut.

I get that but I was asking because I've heard that there will be frame/body rubbing with these dimensions and I was trying to see if the issue was still there. Moving the top of the wheel in could affect how and where it contacts at full lock.

[deca]

As others have said, look into camber plates. Verus and Raceseng have nice options available. With lowering springs, plates and bolts I was able to run about 3.5 degrees in the front on 17x9 +35 with 245s. I had no clearance issues at all. With +40 you may be slightly limited at the bolts for spring perch clearance, but you should be able to come close.

Edit: lol whoops I didn't realize this thread was ancient. Well I can at least respond to the more recent question.

Originally Posted by PikachuBRZ

I get that but I was asking because I've heard that there will be frame/body rubbing with these dimensions and I was trying to see if the issue was still there. Moving the top of the wheel in could affect how and where it contacts at full lock.

I'm currently running 4 degrees in the front via plates and slotted knuckle mounts. I have contact on the inside of the wheel well just in front of and behind the struts (primarily in front), it's worn a chunk out of the liner but nothing I'm really worried about. The bulk of it occurred while running 255 RT660s, 17x9 +35 wheels. Far more pronounced on drivers side than passenger due to all of our tracks being CW.

[RedReplicant]

I think most of us are in the same boat as deca there with the contact. I don't see full lock on track unless something has gone very wrong (or right) so I don't worry about it.

[NoHaveMSG]

I get tons of contact on my fender liners.

[PikachuBRZ]

Originally Posted by deca

Edit: lol whoops I didn't realize this thread was ancient. Well I can at least respond to the more recent question.

yeah that's my bad. I was looking at these exact wheels but found out they don't fit my brakes anyways so it sounds like the search continues. Thanks for the help though.

[APEX Race Parts]

Originally Posted by PikachuBRZ

yeah that's my bad. I was looking at these exact wheels but found out they don't fit my brakes anyways so it sounds like the search continues. Thanks for the help though.

What is your suspension setup, and what tire size and model do you plan to run? Is this predominantly a car that you enjoy on the street day to day, or is your goal to maximize performance for HPDE's?

There are quite a few ways to attack the situation, and these factors matter when it comes to choosing the best specs for your specific situation.

- Ryan

[PikachuBRZ]

Originally Posted by APEX Race Parts

What is your suspension setup, and what tire size and model do you plan to run? Is this predominantly a car that you enjoy on the street day to day, or is your goal to maximize performance for HPDE's?

There are quite a few ways to attack the situation, and these factors matter when it comes to choosing the best specs for your specific situation.

- Ryan

Mostly daily with AutoX use, preferably in STX but may just say screw it and go XS. Trying to get something that will run a 245/40/17 with 200TW, not 100% set on which tires yet. I currently have flex Zs with SPC LCAs and toe arms but I'm planning to switch to RCE T2s and either RS-R or Verus LCAs (already had the alignment slip out on the SPCs) and a steering limiter to minimize rubbing. ARP wheel studs are in the pipeline because I just plain don't trust subaru studs after blowing through 6 in 2 months on my old Legacy so I may end up with spacers as an option. As you can tell I have a lot of want tos and planning on. I've only had the car for a bit and I'm still in the planning stages so I can figure out exactly what path I want to take.

[APEX Race Parts]

Originally Posted by PikachuBRZ

Mostly daily with AutoX use, preferably in STX but may just say screw it and go XS. Trying to get something that will run a 245/40/17 with 200TW, not 100% set on which tires yet. I currently have flex Zs with SPC LCAs and toe arms but I'm planning to switch to RCE T2s and either RS-R or Verus LCAs (already had the alignment slip out on the SPCs) and a steering limiter to minimize rubbing. ARP wheel studs are in the pipeline because I just plain don't trust subaru studs after blowing through 6 in 2 months on my old Legacy so I may end up with spacers as an option. As you can tell I have a lot of want tos and planning on. I've only had the car for a bit and I'm still in the planning stages so I can figure out exactly what path I want to take.

Right on. Nailing down your goals for the car from the start is always smart. It will save you a lot of time and money in the long run. If you are running in STX, I believe your widths are limited to 9" wheels and 265 tires 200TW tires.

For the gen I 86/BRZ, we offer 9" wheels in multiple offsets (ET42 and ET35) to accommodate the variety of suspension configurations out there, and to take into account the different ways people dial in negative camber. With 9" wheels, it's all about balancing inner (suspension) and outer (fender) clearances.

For example, if someone is running the factory non-PP/TRD suspension or aftermarket coilovers with a slim silhouette, they can comfortably run 9" wheels in the ET38 - 45 range. The benefit of this higher offset range is that the wheels are positioned further inboard under the fenders, so less negative camber is required to prevent rubbing the outer fender edge. This can be helpful for enthusiasts predominantly enjoying their car on the street and do not want to run aggressive camber specs, but want 9" wheels nonetheless. With that said, if you have the factory PP/TRD Sachs struts (like the OP), this offset range puts the front wheels too close to the front suspension and in some cases contact may occur. The problem is exacerbated when camber bolts are used.

A slightly more aggressive fitment like 17x9" ET35 will sit closer to the fenders and as a result require more negative camber, but it will clear all suspension types including the factory PP/TRD Sachs struts and give you the room needed to dial in camber via camber bolts should you choose. It will also widen your track width.

Both of our 9" wheels (ET42 & ET35) will clear the PP/TRD Brembo brakes, so that is not really a factor our customers have to consider. With other wheel brands, you may be forced to choose a wheel with a lower offset to clear the front calipers.

Since you have Tein Flex's installed, you don't have the same constraints as the OP. You have plenty of room to play with, so you have the flexibility to run any of these 9" wheel offsets - you just have to weigh the pro's and con's. For AutoX / track cars where negative camber is vital for handling performance and tire longevity, I almost always push customers to the lower ET35 offset.

Side note, 9" wheels don't typically have issues with inner tire rod clearance at full lock. This is something that is introduced with 9.5" wheels.

- Ryan