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#15 | |
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Could be on the fire wall? Not sure what kind of connection there is from the pedal forward. A buzz is far worse than a rattle! |
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#16 | |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to Ultramaroon For This Useful Post: | Tcoat (05-28-2018) |
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#17 |
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I get this too. Found that there are I guess pressure vents in the trunk that have flaps that buzz.
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| The Following User Says Thank You to Somerandom18 For This Useful Post: | Ultramaroon (05-28-2018) |
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#18 |
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Going to dig next weekend at my sisters house. Plenty o'tools and space to poke around. If I find it, I'll let you know.
It has to be something vibrating. I hope it's not in the dash, that would suck. If you saw the Top Gear episode where JC was in a Ferrari 612 with a wiper arm buzz, it similar to that but not nearly as loud and higher freq. I've been looking at that, but since I discovered that pressure on the go-pedal silences the buzz I'm back at square one. Pic of buzz. Last edited by PetrolioBenzina; 05-28-2018 at 03:16 PM. |
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#19 | |
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I had a buzz in the same spot on the passenger side. It turned out to be some wires from the Airbag system that were vibrating against the cover. Like you it only happened at certain RPMs and would go away when under throttle. Try giving the cover a good whack on a hot day. (not joking that is how I fixed mine)
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| The Following User Says Thank You to Tcoat For This Useful Post: | PetrolioBenzina (05-28-2018) |
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#20 |
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Does it change when you blast air on high through the vent, or through defrost? Those are separate and loose manifolds.
There is a panel that pops off of the side of the dash with the door open. You can feel around but be mindful of the sharp edges.
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| The Following User Says Thank You to Ultramaroon For This Useful Post: | PetrolioBenzina (05-28-2018) |
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#21 | |
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| The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to humfrz For This Useful Post: | Decep (05-29-2018), ToySub1946 (05-28-2018) |
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#22 |
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Wrong airbag. And I didn't whack the sensors.
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| The Following User Says Thank You to Tcoat For This Useful Post: | humfrz (05-28-2018) |
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#23 | |
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#24 |
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My money is on the pedal assembly. Remove it but leave it connected so you can start the engine.
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#25 |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to humfrz For This Useful Post: | Ultramaroon (05-28-2018) |
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#26 |
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Take the car to the Stealership under your warranty.
They'll be happy to have an 18 year old with zero experience spend hours driving your car around, testing for squeaks and rattles. These guys get paid very little (hourly pay), yet sometimes find a fix. What they won't do is tell you 'unable to verify complaint',. or 'no problem found', as any commissioned tech would say, to get you to go away. You might have to take the car to the same guy several times to find a permanent fix. Only problem is these guys tend to use up clutches, tires, etc. during their 'required' road tests. Last edited by ToySub1946; 05-28-2018 at 11:28 PM. |
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#28 |
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Had to review. I thought all this was happening in the driveway at idle. Does the vibration happen at all rpm, or at what engine speed does it resonate?
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