P0016 on a 60k mile car

[Jamestl]

Originally Posted by TheStig85

Well the ECM will cost around $400+, whereas the sprocket is $150 each. But assuming the sprocket is the issue, you just need 1.

I have a 2013 BRZ and the dealer told me the latest part number was: 22765AC812

As per the B01C revision for the flash... I have no idea. If you find out, let me know, but I already replaced my ECM recently with that part.

I'm hoping to just get a used ECM rather than new, and I can replace myself. I can't replace the sprocket though, as I can and have done most work outside of opening the engine. But if anyone wants to do a walk through on how to replace the damn thing I'd be willing to try.

[Jamestl]

Originally Posted by steve99

You need to definitively isolate the problem, suggest you use the proceedures in the tsb. Else you will likey throw lots of money at this issue and not fix it.

The first thing eould be to make sure your ecu calibration is the latest for your car, theor were some fixes in ecu firmware directly for this issue in 2013 and earlier cars

Steve -- I read your posts from the replacing ECM thread. It's still not clear to me how to go around any security system. From your thread here it seems that the ECM is plug and play (e.g., no need to even change the VIN).

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=102810

But then in the other link earlier in this thread it seems like it's a lot more complex (need to have the ECM be neutralized before taking off of donor car, etc.).

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=95320

So now I'm very confused on the exact procedure to follow. I have a 2013 FRS without the push start system, but it does have the buttons on the fob that communicates with the car to open doors and trunk, etc. Can you comment on this please?

Thanks for all the wisdom shared on this topic in this thread and others!!

[TheStig85]

Originally Posted by Jamestl

Steve -- I read your posts from the replacing ECM thread. It's still not clear to me how to go around any security system. From your thread here it seems that the ECM is plug and play (e.g., no need to even change the VIN).

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=102810

But then in the other link earlier in this thread it seems like it's a lot more complex (need to have the ECM be neutralized before taking off of donor car, etc.).

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=95320

So now I'm very confused on the exact procedure to follow. I have a 2017 FRS without the push start system, but it does have the buttons on the fob that communicates with the car to open doors and trunk, etc. Can you comment on this please?

Thanks for all the wisdom shared on this topic in this thread and others!!

From my experience, if you have the proper ECM, it's plug&play. If you don't get a matching one, you need to follow the procedure to have ensure the anti-theft system doesn't lock you out.

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[Jamestl]

Originally Posted by TheStig85

From my experience, if you have the proper ECM, it's plug&play. If you don't get a matching one, you need to follow the procedure to have ensure the anti-theft system doesn't lock you out.

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Thanks, Stig. What do you mean by proper? Same part number? The first thread I referenced said that all cars before MY2017 have the same ECM and should work so I'm still confused.

[TheStig85]

Originally Posted by Jamestl

Thanks, Stig. What do you mean by proper? Same part number? The first thread I referenced said that all cars before MY2017 have the same ECM and should work so I'm still confused.

I did this months ago! But I recall it was if you looked up your VIN and found the exact ECM that corresponding with it, it was plug&play. But let's say you find a used one for the same model/year/trim/etc, you need to do the procedure to get it to work with your car.

[Jamestl]

Originally Posted by TheStig85

I did this months ago! But I recall it was if you looked up your VIN and found the exact ECM that corresponding with it, it was plug&play. But let's say you find a used one for the same model/year/trim/etc, you need to do the procedure to get it to work with your car.

I was rereading the posts and yours was replaced with a new one right, right?

I'm trying to figure out procedure for replacing with a used one.

[TheStig85]

Originally Posted by Jamestl

I was rereading the posts and yours was replaced with a new one right, right?

I'm trying to figure out procedure for replacing with a used one.

Procedure is right here: http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=102810

1. Ignition off
2. Remove battery terminal
3. Replace ECU module with the new or used ECU unit from another car
see here for physical replacement procedure http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=19590
4. Replace battery terminal
5. Turn ON ignition (full ON position not just accessory position)
6. Use Techstream to enter new vin number on connection screen (its under tab called UTILITY in the Engine ECU screen, setting vin is not necessary to get car to start and run)
7. Turn OFF ignition
8. Loop pins 4 and 13 on OBD port in car (this puts control units in comms mode)
9. Turn ignition to full ON position with working key or for keyless fob in car and two pushes of start button (in park or not pressing clutch) DO NOT TRY TO START car, DO NOT remove FOB from car during the 30 minute period.

To be really safe here make sure everything electrical is off in car radio, fans lights ect have the drivers window down and doors closed. Reach in through window to operate ignition at start and end of 30 minute period. Because when you open door window does the jump/up/down ie electrical load/spikes .

10. Wait at least 30 minutes (the CEL light should flash if process completes successfully)
11. turn OFF ignition (again reaching through window not opening door)
12. Remove loop on OBD port pins 4 to 13
13. Start car let it run for more than 5 seconds.
14. Enjoy your car.

[Jamestl]

Originally Posted by TheStig85

Procedure is right here: http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=102810

We're talking past each other.

I saw the thread, and referenced it in my earlier question to Steve, as I wasn't sure whether it was as the procedure as you referenced above, or if there are other steps to ensure the security system isn't tripped.

Then you mentioned that as long as it's "proper" ECM it's plug and play. It seems that you got a new ECM from the dealer as your car was under warranty, so I'm just wondering whether my question is relevant for you (since you did not replace the ECM with a used one from another donor car). Makes sense?

[TheStig85]

Originally Posted by Jamestl

We're talking past each other.

I saw the thread, and referenced it in my earlier question to Steve, as I wasn't sure whether it was as the procedure as you referenced above, or if there are other steps to ensure the security system isn't tripped.

Then you mentioned that as long as it's "proper" ECM it's plug and play. It seems that you got a new ECM from the dealer as your car was under warranty, so I'm just wondering whether my question is relevant for you (since you did not replace the ECM with a used one from another donor car). Makes sense?

That procedure is all you need to do with a used ECM from a donor car.

The ECM I replaced in mine I purchased from a dealer (not under warranty), and installed myself. Literally just plug&play.

Does that help?

[Jamestl]

Originally Posted by TheStig85

That procedure is all you need to do with a used ECM from a donor car.

The ECM I replaced in mine I purchased from a dealer (not under warranty), and installed myself. Literally just plug&play.

Does that help?

It does, thank you. I did not realize you did the install yourself. I assume the purchase was for a new part?

The issue I'm trying to avoid is in this thread, which seems to indicate a far more comprehensive procedure for using a used ECM (vs. your new one), hence my question to Steve.

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=95320

[alxtheoreo]

I had this DTC pop up two days ago & I dropped it off at the Toyota dealer I originally purchased the car from. I also provided them the Subaru TSB for additional insight on troubleshooting.

They called me back 8hrs later to say the ECU was corrupt, so I'll be getting a new one. My question is, will I be receiving a 2015+ ECU or some refurbish 2013 unit? Lol

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[steve99]

Originally Posted by alxtheoreo

I had this DTC pop up two days ago & I dropped it off at the Toyota dealer I originally purchased the car from. I also provided them the Subaru TSB for additional insight on troubleshooting.

They called me back 8hrs later to say the ECU was corrupt, so I'll be getting a new one. My question is, will I be receiving a 2015+ ECU or some refurbish 2013 unit? Lol

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If its a dealer will be new ecu with correct calibration for your car

[steve99]

Originally Posted by Jamestl

It does, thank you. I did not realize you did the install yourself. I assume the purchase was for a new part?

The issue I'm trying to avoid is in this thread, which seems to indicate a far more comprehensive procedure for using a used ECM (vs. your new one), hence my question to Steve.

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=95320

Use procedure here
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=102810


done quite a few now you will be fine

[steve99]

Originally Posted by Jamestl

Steve -- I read your posts from the replacing ECM thread. It's still not clear to me how to go around any security system. From your thread here it seems that the ECM is plug and play (e.g., no need to even change the VIN).

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=102810

But then in the other link earlier in this thread it seems like it's a lot more complex (need to have the ECM be neutralized before taking off of donor car, etc.).

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=95320

So now I'm very confused on the exact procedure to follow. I have a 2013 FRS without the push start system, but it does have the buttons on the fob that communicates with the car to open doors and trunk, etc. Can you comment on this please?

Thanks for all the wisdom shared on this topic in this thread and others!!

no need to "neutralise" ecu or to change vin to get car to start.


you will need to flash in correct calibration into ecu (depending on car year and auto manual) if its different and you will need to loop pins 4 and 13 for 30 minutes each time you swap a ecu.


just read out your current ecu calibration for example like ZA1JB01C and flash that into new ECU. that doesn't change for key start or keyless




the ecu doesn't handle immobiliser or key fobs that's done in immobiliser module. you just need to get new ecu to talk to immobiliser, hence the 30 minute loop of pins 4-13.