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Old 02-01-2017, 10:50 AM   #15
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Thanks. Not everybody see things that way though.


Have you had the RPM TSB done? It is a simple reflash of the ECU. http://www.ft86club.com/forums/attac...1&d=1386706237
I use OFT stock tune on 93 octane.
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Old 02-01-2017, 10:52 AM   #16
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I use OFT stock tune on 93 octane.
Hmmmm. Did you have your heater on?
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Old 02-01-2017, 10:53 AM   #17
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Hmmmm. Did you have your heater on?
well the heat was on but not the compressor.
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Old 02-01-2017, 11:59 AM   #18
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well the heat was on but not the compressor.
The compressor comes on with the heater on these cars if set to windshield. It dries the air for defrost.
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Old 02-01-2017, 12:46 PM   #19
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The compressor comes on with the heater on these cars if set to windshield. It dries the air for defrost.
The defroster was not on. I am going to sport mode it on the way home and see if it keeps doing it.
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Old 02-01-2017, 02:12 PM   #20
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The defroster was not on. I am going to sport mode it on the way home and see if it keeps doing it.
OK I am baffled and have run out of suggestions.
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Old 02-02-2017, 12:09 AM   #21
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Your issue doesn't sound like the starter battery at all. If you turned the key and had slow crank or just clicks and no crank then the battery would be suspect. When you turn the key and there is nothing at all but it starts without hesitation on the second tray it means the battery is fine but you are not getting signal to the ecu for some reason. A bad switch wouldn't care what temperature it is and should be repeatable no matter what the weather conditions are so you need to keep digging.
That's the point though. The ECU gets the signal just fine... It just refuses to do anything with it.

Everything is working fine - All the switches and relays work, but the circuit that grounds via ECM pin 26 is closed before all the other circuits close. That is all...

Theoretically, you shouldn't be able to turn the key fast enough to "beat" the relays, unless something is sticky or the initial voltage just isn't quite there... But you can simulate the condition in an MT car by leaving the clutch out... Hold the key to start, then press the clutch. You just completed the circuit, but nothing happens, because the ECU won't complete the ground for pin 26... Because reasons... And some internal start logic that I'm not privy to...

BUT, if you do the same thing in the car on the right side of the diagram, the car starts as soon as the clutch hits the switch. The only difference between these two is that one relay circuit terminates at a plain old ground, and the other disappears into a "logic box."

Here are two starter circuits to illustrate my point. FRS, and an older car.
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Old 02-02-2017, 12:35 AM   #22
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......and an even older starter circuit .....


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Old 02-02-2017, 11:24 AM   #23
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Ok the car is still starting on the first try for the 2nd day. As far as the car feeling like it might stall when coming to a stop, it was doing it yesterday on the drive home. This morning everything was fine though. I did need to add gas this morning so i am wondering if the last tank of gas could have caused the issue of stuttering when stopping. I usually always put Chevron 93 in my car but will use shell 93 also. Last fill up was shell. Think it could have made a difference? Gonna keep running the car in sport mode to see if it does it again.
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Old 02-02-2017, 11:25 AM   #24
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I am an IT tech by trade and really hate when I cant duplicate something. It drives me nutz!
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