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Old 05-09-2014, 06:59 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by FyeaFRS View Post
So would we need to add in another T in-line with the one that goes to the vortech BOV? Or would the setup above work?
Yes you need another tee. This is how I did mine. Total of three tees. 1 that came with the Vortech kit, which goes to the second tee. From the second tee, one line goes to the bypass valve and the other line goes to a third tee to hook up to my Defi boost gauge and AEM failsafe gauge. It's really messy. I need to get a distribution block!


Last edited by HRTROB; 05-09-2014 at 07:12 PM. Reason: typo
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Old 05-09-2014, 07:08 PM   #30
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Thanks for the pic. Looks like I should be able to do the exact same thing but just stop at the second T since I only have the vacuum/boost gauge.
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Old 05-10-2014, 12:30 AM   #31
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Originally Posted by diirk View Post
According to the RallySport Direct install FAQ, they also installed the T-fitting for their boost guage after the factory check-valve on the line running to the brake booster. I didn't see one...
Most cars have a check valve on the brake booster hose to ensure that it only sees vacuum and not boost as it uses the vacuum to work on your brake master cylinder. In order to make sure your boost gauge sees boost, you need to install the T between the intake manifold and the check valve.
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Old 05-10-2014, 12:33 AM   #32
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You have it backwards. You want to tee off the line at position B, after the check valve. I have my boost gauge teed in there and I get proper vaccuum and boost readings.
I would call that "before the check valve", but I guess that is semantics, haha. I envision the vacuum going from the intake manifold to the brake booster making the Tee before the check valve. You can Tee off anywhere that sees boost for your boost gauge. That can be the brake booster line or the line you already have Teed off the brake booster line. This is one of the reasons I prefer a vacuum manifold so you don't end up with tons of Tees and more failure points. I also prefer getting the vacuum from the PCV hose and leaving the brake booster hose alone, but I ran a vented catch can so I didn't need the PCV hose off the intake manifold any longer.
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Old 05-10-2014, 08:16 AM   #33
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Well I guess I'll have to check it again. I'm getting like -20 on idle and then it goes up to only like 1psi when I really get on it..
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Old 05-10-2014, 10:49 AM   #34
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I found the check valve. It's exactly where the above diagram shows. It's easily seen if you're looking for it. A slight swelling of the hose. So my T Fitting is between the engine and check valve.
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Old 05-10-2014, 02:05 PM   #35
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So would this work?
Yes. That will work. I did mine exactly like @HRTROB.
You normally get 0 boost at 50% throttle and get full boost (9psi with stock pulley) at redline.
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Old 05-10-2014, 10:56 PM   #36
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Yes. That will work. I did mine exactly like @HRTROB.
You normally get 0 boost at 50% throttle and get full boost (9psi with stock pulley) at redline.
Thanks, I found that I got proper readings out on the highway where I could really open the throttle up. Everything appears to be working fine
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Old 06-29-2015, 06:18 PM   #37
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Don't mean to revive a dead thread but the information here is the best I could find regarding the boost gauge installs on the FRS and I'm having some issues with mine. I tapped into the brake boost line between the engine and the check valve for my Defi boost gauge. But when I'm driving I always see -30psi unless I press the brakes. If I press the brakes repeatedly the boost rises, then drops back down to -30psi. Could someone give me a pointer to what I did wrong?

I circled the check valve on the line for clarity.

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Old 07-01-2015, 10:12 PM   #38
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Don't mean to revive a dead thread but the information here is the best I could find regarding the boost gauge installs on the FRS and I'm having some issues with mine. I tapped into the brake boost line between the engine and the check valve for my Defi boost gauge. But when I'm driving I always see -30psi unless I press the brakes. If I press the brakes repeatedly the boost rises, then drops back down to -30psi. Could someone give me a pointer to what I did wrong?

I circled the check valve on the line for clarity.

It looks like the tap from the brake booster line is correct as it's below the check valve. Where's that tube running to?
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Old 07-01-2015, 10:44 PM   #39
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It looks like the tap from the brake booster line is correct as it's below the check valve. Where's that tube running to?
Thanks for the reply! I know this thread is dead. But it's still the best I've found on the subject.

That vac line only runs about 6 inches from the T to the sensor

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Old 07-02-2015, 10:00 AM   #40
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I posted a video to show what the gauge is doing:

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Old 07-02-2015, 05:03 PM   #41
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Really hard to say because the install looks good.... maybe a bad gauge or sender unit?
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Old 07-02-2015, 07:02 PM   #42
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Really hard to say because the install looks good.... maybe a bad gauge or sender unit?
Maybe. But it's weird if you watch the video that it gets boost when I press the brake.

I have a mitivac I'm going to hook in to see if it's getting the same readings.
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