Got a track related question? I'll try to answer.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by THEmailman

Ok I never thought of that but makes sense.....related then, when it comes time to replace the rotors, is it worth it to just go with a blank replacement rotor or upgrade to something a little more geared toward track duty (still keeping stock brake system)?

I recommend blanks for stock brakes.

[Sleepless]

Originally Posted by OkieSnuffBox

Are there any quality bolt-in roll bars available that have an integral harness bar?


Like these for Miata's? (I come from the BMW/Miata world).


http://flyinmiata.com/index.php?dept...%20%202%20DIAG

I have one from Cantrell Motorsports that is very high quality. They make excellent rollbars; I had their bars in past M3 and Cayman.

Shoot them an email and they can send you pics and specs info@cantrellmotorsport.com

You can see pics and specs on their Facebook page

[jvincent]

Since we are on the topic of rotors, just a head's up for anyone considering running the stock pads at the track.

I melted my stock pads at my last track day and somehow ended up grooving the shit out of my rotors. The price of getting faster and not bothering to swap in the track pads I guess.

Gory pics in the following post.

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showp...postcount=6407

[raul]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

I recommend blanks for stock brakes.

Any idea how do these hold up? I'm due for replacements soon.

[ame="http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BZXR6I/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=3990 Q6PCETP1I&coliid=I3F1QPDE47IPYI"]Amazon.com: Centric 120.47018 Premium Brake Rotor: Automotive[/ame]

[OkieSnuffBox]

Originally Posted by Sleepless

I have one from Cantrell Motorsports that is very high quality. They make excellent rollbars; I had their bars in past M3 and Cayman.

Shoot them an email and they can send you pics and specs info@cantrellmotorsport.com

You can see pics and specs on their Facebook page

Excellent, thanks!

[dradernh]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

The small cracks are heat checking; normal.

The rotor is fine to use, but as the cracks get larger, get ready to replace them. If a crack reaches the edge of the rotor, it's no good, and needs to be changed ASAP.

Also, it's common to run your fingernails across the face of a cracked rotor to get a feel for how wide the cracks are - the idea being that when your fingernails catch on a crack, the rotor is ready for replacement. If you do this, you'll find that visually the cracks are already getting fairly wide by the time your fingernails start getting hung up on the cracks.

If you're at the track when you find rotor cracks have become an issue, that's a good time to enjoy the fact that you were thinking ahead and so you have a spare set of rotors ready to throw on between sessions or at lunch. You're going to need them anyway, sooner or later, so why not have them with you when you need them the most?

[bjun]

I was wondering if the STI Brembo BBK is any good for track?

[BRZZZZZZZZZZ]

I don't want to start another thread just for this question, but what class do forced induction twins fall into for auto x?

[CSG David]

Originally Posted by bjun

I was wondering if the STI Brembo BBK is any good for track?

Marginal upgrade to the factory brakes. You will still need to use a track pad to maximize your braking capabilities and capacity. Front Brembo BBK will help a little bit, but the rear Brembo BBK is a downgrade. If you can handle oversteer, I suggest you run non-staggered brake pads at minimum or maybe a more aggressive rear pad to maintain proper bias. We would need to use our temperature probe and paint strips to identify where your brake temperatures are at before recommending you further information.

[bjun]

Originally Posted by CSG David

Marginal upgrade to the factory brakes. You will still need to use a track pad to maximize your braking capabilities and capacity. Front Brembo BBK will help a little bit, but the rear Brembo BBK is a downgrade. If you can handle oversteer, I suggest you run non-staggered brake pads at minimum or maybe a more aggressive rear pad to maintain proper bias. We would need to use our temperature probe and paint strips to identify where your brake temperatures are at before recommending you further information.

Ty so much for info. I guess I'll buy stoptech bbk later down the road then lol

[wparsons]

Originally Posted by bjun

Ty so much for info. I guess I'll buy stoptech bbk later down the road then lol

Look at other options before jumping straight to stoptech, unless you're doing it just for looks.

The Essex kits are arguably better and cheaper IIRC.

[CSG David]

Originally Posted by bjun

Ty so much for info. I guess I'll buy stoptech bbk later down the road then lol

Originally Posted by wparsons

Look at other options before jumping straight to stoptech, unless you're doing it just for looks.

The Essex kits are arguably better and cheaper IIRC.

Yes. The AP kits are arguably better than the Stoptech BBKs. The recommendation is to go Sprint Kit if you're NA and Endurance kit if you're going FI. It's much harder to bed in brakes with BBKs in general.

[finch1750]

Originally Posted by BRZZZZZZZZZZ

I don't want to start another thread just for this question, but what class do forced induction twins fall into for auto x?

A user on here that Autox an innovate sc twin is running SM if I recall correctly

[BRZZZZZZZZZZ]

Originally Posted by finch1750

A user on here that Autox an innovate sc twin is running SM if I recall correctly

Ok thanks, that's what I got from reading the rules but wasn't sure.

Goodbye STX, here I come SSM!