Car Stalls at Idle

[Stevedave]

2013 FRS - 6 speed manual
Catback Exhaust - otherwise stock
159k miles

Last fall the car stalled a handful of times while slowing down and pushing in the clutch. Stalled before I was able to downshift to 3rd gear and continue going through roundabouts. Car started right back up every time while the car was still moving. This only happened after filling the gas tank all in the same day.

10/31/23 - Put car in storage over the winter with battery removed, full tank of gas with Sta-bil treatment added.

4/01/24 - Car taken out of storage. Battery was tested before reinstalling, car fired right up. Let car idle for 25 mins, backed out and then car stalled. Started right back up. Drove home and stalled once while idling in traffic - started right back up. I blipped the throttle until the light turned green to keep it from stalling again.

Got it home, changed oil and drained and refilled engine coolant.

All was good until I spent a lengthy amount of time just idling.
Now, car has stalled twice, about 3 weeks apart, BUT only while idling for 10+ minutes in two different drive-thrus. I waited to start the car back up once I was able to move. Again, both times the car starts right back up.
It would idle at 600 rpm’s and dip right before the car shuts off.

I was thinking about cleaning the throttle body and MAF.

Any thoughts?

[Stevedave]

Just checked a few things under the hood.
Battery manufacturer date is 12/22
CCA 550
35MF
Auto parts employee who tested the battery said it was really small, but CCA’s seem fine.

Coolant is below the low mark in the overflow tank.
And seems a bit low in the radiator filler neck.
Can I just add more to the overflow without having to bleed the system?

Also - previous owner had glued part of the plastic near the intake - it’s cracked all the way around.. I noticed the glue wasn’t still intact when I changed the air filter.
See pics for reference.

Car has never overheated and there are no dash lights on currently or anytime the car stalled.

[Ultramaroon]

Take it to a pro who knows how to record and interpret engine performance logs.

[Stevedave]

Originally Posted by Ultramaroon

Take it to a pro who knows how to record and interpret engine performance logs.

I don’t know of any in my area, or even within a couple hours radius. I don’t even trust the Subaru dealership to touch it, let alone the Toyota dealership.

Is there anything that plugs into the OBD II port that can be purchased off Amazon or something?

[Ultramaroon]

Originally Posted by Stevedave

I don’t know of any in my area, or even within a couple hours radius. I don’t even trust the Subaru dealership to touch it, let alone the Toyota dealership.

Is there anything that plugs into the OBD II port that can be purchased off Amazon or something?

No offense intended. I used to dive into this with anyone until I learned to gauge experience in the context clues. This takes years of experience. Use Google to search this forum, and keep a humble frame of mind.

It might be as simple as an intermittent connection to your MAF but without the diagnostic tools, and especially the knowledge to use them, it's just poke-and-hope.

See the link to service manuals in my sig line.

[Stevedave]

Originally Posted by Ultramaroon

No offense intended. I used to dive into this with anyone until I learned to gauge experience in the context clues. This takes years of experience. Use Google to search this forum, and keep a humble frame of mind.

It might be as simple as an intermittent connection to your MAF but without the diagnostic tools, and especially the knowledge to use them, it's just poke-and-hope.

See the link to service manuals in my sig line.

None taken. I’ve kinda gone crazy just searching about coolant levels on here - what some say is acceptable, how to refill it when low, reasons why it gets low, how it’s self burping, etc. I followed the directions to a T in the sticky for the drain and refill. Now that I’ve done some looking around under the hood for the stalling issue, I’ve noticed it’s low in the overflow tank and slightly low in the radiator as shown in the pic.

I also used mothballs while storing it. I know, I know - stupid. After trying several things at home, I’m taking apart the interior tonight and having a detailer tackle it after living with the awful odor since April 1st.

I love this car, have learned to work on/service quite a few things, but I can’t tell you how much I appreciate my Camry, despite being boring and the equivalent to a reliable house appliance on wheels.

I’m tempted to just refill the overflow tank between high and low, and top off the radiator without bleeding it per the sticky’s instructions. But videos and other posts on here say differently. 🤷

Thanks for your input.

[sweetfrs]

Is check engine light on? Change o2 sensors, look for any vaccum leaks hoses ect. Lastly could be maf sensor on intake

[FR-S2GT86]

Originally Posted by sweetfrs

Is check engine light on? Change o2 sensors, look for any vaccum leaks hoses ect. Lastly could be maf sensor on intake

Although I agree to noting if the check engine is lit and to check for vacuum hose leaks, those visuals are just PART of thorough diagnosis. Let's not throw parts at it and waste time and money. He needs to pick up a good scanning tool to create logs that we can help him interpret. I would recommend the OBD LINK MX+ in his case and a good android tablet with the app to go with it.

https://www.obdlink.com/products/obdlink-mxp/

No I'm not a spokesperson for the company, I actually use this tool on many of the vehicles that I drive and troubleshoot. It's not an ECUTEK-level tool when it comes down to logging, but it's the next best thing I use when I'm not in the mood to connect my laptop to my car and it should get the job done for what he needs.

[Stevedave]

Originally Posted by sweetfrs

Is check engine light on? Change o2 sensors, look for any vaccum leaks hoses ect. Lastly could be maf sensor on intake

No dash lights.

[Stevedave]

Originally Posted by FR-S2GT86

Although I agree to noting if the check engine is lit and to check for vacuum hose leaks, those visuals are just PART of thorough diagnosis. Let's not throw parts at it and waste time and money. He needs to pick up a good scanning tool to create logs that we can help him interpret. I would recommend the OBD LINK MX+ in his case and a good android tablet with the app to go with it.

https://www.obdlink.com/products/obdlink-mxp/

No I'm not a spokesperson for the company, I actually use this tool on many of the vehicles that I drive and troubleshoot. It's not an ECUTEK-level tool when it comes down to logging, but it's the next best thing I use when I'm not in the mood to connect my laptop to my car and it should get the job done for what he needs.

I’d very much like to go the scanning tool route. I have an android tablet, but it’s dated. I don’t have a laptop as I have a pc. That leaves me with an iPhone.
Are there any scanners you’d recommend?

For what it’s worth; car was detailed yesterday. Part of the process was bombing it with the AC on recirculate while it idled for ~35 minutes. It did not stall. I stood next to it while this was being done. I could hear the rpms dip, but as the compressor kicked on the idle would raise up, I think keeping it from stalling. I’ve read this is common on these cars. I drove it home with the AC on and even though I didn’t idle for any longer than a couple mins at stop lights, it didn’t stall. I did notice the same thing with an idle dip but either the cooling fans or the compressor kicking back on brought the rpm’s back up.

[Ultramaroon]

Originally Posted by Stevedave

I’d very much like to go the scanning tool route. I have an android tablet, but it’s dated. I don’t have a laptop as I have a pc. That leaves me with an iPhone.
Are there any scanners you’d recommend?

For what it’s worth; car was detailed yesterday. Part of the process was bombing it with the AC on recirculate while it idled for ~35 minutes. It did not stall. I stood next to it while this was being done. I could hear the rpms dip, but as the compressor kicked on the idle would raise up, I think keeping it from stalling. I’ve read this is common on these cars. I drove it home with the AC on and even though I didn’t idle for any longer than a couple mins at stop lights, it didn’t stall. I did notice the same thing with an idle dip but either the cooling fans or the compressor kicking back on brought the rpm’s back up.

I have the same device working with a tablet as old as the car. It's good software and a good tool.

Do not throw parts at it. Read the manuals. Learn to diagnose properly.

[FR-S2GT86]

Originally Posted by Stevedave

I’d very much like to go the scanning tool route. I have an android tablet, but it’s dated. I don’t have a laptop as I have a pc. That leaves me with an iPhone.
Are there any scanners you’d recommend?
.

The MX+ is also iPhone compatible. However, I like to use my cheap 10" DVD player/tablet running Android 10 because of the large screen and its ability to sit at any angle I want it to.

Edit: By the way, that crack in the pipe is just on the inlet to the sound generator tubing leading to the firewall. It won't make a difference at all to the operation of the fuel system since it's before both the air filter and MAF sensor.

[Ultramaroon]

Originally Posted by FR-S2GT86

Edit: By the way, that crack in the pipe is just on the inlet to the sound generator tubing leading to the firewall. It won't make a difference at all to the operation of the fuel system since it's before both the air filter and MAF sensor.

Well, now I have to correct that for the record. It's the last helmholtz resonator upstream of the filter element. Still not a big deal.

[FR-S2GT86]

Originally Posted by Ultramaroon

Well, now I have to correct that for the record. It's the last helmholtz resonator upstream of the filter element. Still not a big deal.

Thanks,...Tcoat.