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Old 04-26-2013, 05:08 AM   #1
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correct idle rpm after warmup

So reading all the issues I've failed to find any aside from having at least 3 different idle rpms and hanging when shifting into neutral.

I would think a 2.0L would idle around 800 not 650 but maybe I'm wrong?

Also dealer claims my vin has no recalls or TSB's listed.


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Old 04-26-2013, 08:41 AM   #2
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idle without a/c should be 650.
With a/c sometimes it goes to 800 when compressor kicks-in.
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Old 04-26-2013, 09:39 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StormTrooper View Post
So reading all the issues I've failed to find any aside from having at least 3 different idle rpms and hanging when shifting into neutral.

I would think a 2.0L would idle around 800 not 650 but maybe I'm wrong?

Also dealer claims my vin has no recalls or TSB's listed.


Thanks.
Being a 2.0L has very little to do with idle RPM.


As a side note, a Visconti tune will raise your idle RPM to a cool ~900 and it idles awesome.
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Old 04-26-2013, 10:34 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gzpermadi View Post
idle without a/c should be 650.
With a/c sometimes it goes to 800 when compressor kicks-in.
Just about 600 - 650
compressor kicks in it's about 800-900

Reason why i'm not giving exact numbers? Because There's no digital display. So around this area, you should be fine -- though it has to be steady.
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Old 04-26-2013, 12:07 PM   #5
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Mine idles rock steady between 6-700 (I'd call it 650) on the tach. I often get a slight stumble on tip-in, and I'm pretty sure a slightly higher idle would help this out. I wonder if this is something the dealer could adjust.
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Old 04-26-2013, 12:17 PM   #6
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after warm up (appox. +/-1min.) idle settles @ 650rpm on my scangaugeII
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Old 04-26-2013, 12:24 PM   #7
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It does idle pretty low for a 4-cyl. 600rpm would cause other 4's (even other Subarus) to stumble. I believe it's due to the additional fuel control offered by direct injection, since it can precisely alter the mixture even after the port injectors have done their part. It could also simply be due to ECU programming, since the ECU will catch the RPM when it falls to around 1000, and then gently lower it to 600. Seems to work better than letting the rpm fall freely and then catch it right at 600.
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Old 04-26-2013, 02:47 PM   #8
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The reason I mention engine size is that I've owned several cars and the 4cyl ones idled higher to the tune of 800+ while the 5.3L Chevy and 2.8l vw were s little lower but still over 650. More like 750.

Also it seemed to settle into the 850/900 area a few minutes after startup then drop down much later so I was curious if the reflash for wandering idle set the new warm value further up or not.

Only seen desiel trucks this low....
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Old 04-27-2013, 03:06 PM   #9
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My Eclipse GSX which is a sporty 2.0L inline 4 idles at only 500 RPM. Although I noticed it's much smoother if I hold the throttle at 900 RPM. But yeah, as Marchy said, I'm sure it's a matter of keeping it as low as possible for fuel savings.
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Old 04-27-2013, 03:58 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CamryDS View Post
Reason why i'm not giving exact numbers? Because There's no digital display. So around this area, you should be fine -- though it has to be steady.
That is your answer there... A mechanical "analog" needle shows only an approximation of the digital value from the CAN bus data that is fed to the dashboard and displayed to the driver.
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Old 04-27-2013, 08:00 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by QuikSilveRX-8 View Post
That is your answer there... A mechanical "analog" needle shows only an approximation of the digital value from the CAN bus data that is fed to the dashboard and displayed to the driver.
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