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HELP!!! FR-S Shutdown all lights on the dash came on!!!
A few min ago, pulled out from my driveway the check engine light came on. i ignore it thinking its a minor whatever. i'll take it to the dealer in the morn. but by the time i got to the end on my block all lights came on and i felt i lost the power steer. so i pulled over turn it off for a few second and now it just grinds the motor & wont turn over.
-Battery Check -Starter Check -All the Lights are still on when you turn on the ignition me and my friends pushed it back to my driveway. this could be the result of an idiotic act i did a few days ago. trying to prove my SCION. i peeled off:burnrubber: @ 109 miles. Could this void my warranty/or whatever coverage i have? Could i loose the car? btw im leasing from "millennium toyota" :brokenheart: im @#$%'ed... |
Wait...you're the same guy that peeled off from the lot because a bunch of kids said it's just a Scion...!
Since the engine was not fully broken in yet, everything probably seized up. Depending on the dealer; I think they will try and plug in their computers to determine if you've eff-ed around with the car during the break-in period...(Correct me if I'm wrong, truly guessing here) and try to prove you in the wrong so they can void that warranty of yours. Good luck with that... |
I doubt its related to you breaking 4000rpm limit. Probably alternator OR the CEL has cause catastrophic engine failure. youll be covered under warranty.
dont sweat it bro theres a lot more to life than cars. |
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This probably has nothing to do with what it sounds like you did. Please describe how you "proved" your Scion. |
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Nah this cant be the problem. I tracked my car with only 500 miles and its at 3k right now doing fine pulling like a champ, the brake in period is a myth on newer engines. This forum is full of people who love to make theories up. OP: Its hard to diagnose without pulling some codes or more details. You talk about a grinding noise in the engine, is it a knocking sound ? How is your oil? Share as much info as you can with us in order to help you. |
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Good luck...hope they can fix it for you. |
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to live your life to the fullest! don't let this set back pshycologically impair you! it's just a car, an inanimate object! can be replaced no worries! don't f**k up your life over it! |
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tea! it gives me "brain farts!" must be the ''antioxidants"
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Keep us posted on what they diagnose the problem is, im curious as to what could have failed.
You will never 'convince' others to respect your car, or yourself. You earn it. |
one thing to add is that technically speaking the engines in the cars are already "broken in" from the factory...in reality, modern engines are made at such a precise level that the break in process is very minimal and takes very little time, the piston rings basically need to make grooves in the cylinder walls to get a good seal but that occurs rather quickly...just an fyi (hope you feel better)
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Don't know what it is, but GOOD LUCK and hope everything works out, sounds like a nightmare
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must be some electricals or the battery but no worries it is not the engine.
give us updates as soon you solve the problem. |
There was a CEL... so can you pull the original engine code using an Actron scanner?
Maybe its the same/similar issue Whiteout_FRS ran into... then youre eligible for a free scion FRS + pacifying benefits... |
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The important thing is....do your friends think it's a cool car? :w00t:
That's what's really important, right? Let's get our priorities straight... |
chances are your scion warranty will be terminated, any wheelspin detected above 60mph will automatically do that, keeping log at your scions black box. I woudnt bring the car to any dealership and just try to fix it yourself.
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Covered under warranty. Take to dealer, they will fix it. End of story.
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Join the club. You're one of the *lucky* few that suffered a catastrophic failure. It shouldn't be related to your burnout. Call the dealer, get it towed, get it fixed. Should be all covered under warranty.
Here's the thread you should check out: http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=15577 |
I like your thread tags btw...:D
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proof that acting a fool/show off 109 mile motor not a wise choice.
better :bow: they dont pull evidence of you red lining it from your ecu... |
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It's rarely wise to do clutch drops and burnouts with a sub 100m car. |
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All from proving your Scion's 'manhood' You live in NY. Just take it to a muffler shop. They'll probably be able to fix it with a hammer.:bonk: |
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Here, let me explain... Because obviously you don't understand. Assuming this problem is due to the fact that the engine did not break in properly, and the OP "peeled off" the parking lot at cold start...to amuse friends. Engine that start up cold = thick oil = cannot get between the cam gears, piston rings and cylinder walls, and etc for proper lubrication. So now you race the cold new engine that hasn't seat it's piston rings properly without proper lubrication; what do you get? I'll let you figure that one out. If you are racing the engine when there is improper lubrication to some of the engines vital components especially during a cold start... It could lead to engine seize. I'm just saying it's "possible". |
If the 4000 rpm break in was so important why is it not listed in the manual? Why did my dealer say absolutely 0 to me about breaking in the car or a break in procedure?
I am following it, but without it listed in the manual there is no way they could deny a warranty claim for not following it. |
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If you look in the back of the owner's manual, in the index, you'll see "Break-in Tips" is on page 125. And right there, at the top of that page, you'll find this... *New vehicle break-in driving (the first 1000 miles [1600 km]) The performance and long life of your vehicle are dependent on how you handle and care for your vehicle while it is new. Follow these instructions during the first 1000 miles (1600 km): -Do not allow the engine speed to exceed 4000 rpm except in an emergency.There ya go. Took me longer to type that than it did to find it. :slap: P.S.: Oh, and as for your dealer not telling you about it? Wow... you don't have a lot of experience with car dealers, do you? Most of the ones I've dealt with can't tell you the engine type or drivetrain layout on the cars they sell. |
If the 4000rpm limit during the 'break-in period' was intensively important, the car makers could easily program the ECU to limit engine rpms to whatever level they wanted until a certain mileage was reached, then the limit would be lifted.
It would save on warranty work, upset customers, and recalls. The only problem as I see it is that the customers would have to be made aware of these limits until a certain mileage was reached. Since so few owners actually read the owner's manual, they would have to put stickers ALL OVER the car to educate buyers. AS far as doing a burnout before 4000 miles was reached, I'm sure many many test driven cars experienced this with little to no longevity problems. I suspect that the OP is experiencing some sort of electrical issue(s). |
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And what makes you think they "have to put stickers all over the car" regarding break-in periods? They're not responsible for educating the buyer in this way; I mean, it's pretty damn basic common sense that doing burnouts, drifting, and hard-revving a brand new engine are hard on a vehicle. And when you drive your cars harder, then they won't last as long. Simple fact of reality there. I really don't get where people think they're "entitled" to do burnouts and stoplight drags in their cars, and expect them to last as long as a librarian's Camry commuter... all because Toyota markets this as a sports car. Being a "sports car" doesn't change the laws of physics regarding wear-and-tear, guys. |
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Educating (not policing) the public is always a good idea. Common sense isn't so common. If it were, there would be significantly lower DWI incidents and no one would smoke or take illegal narcotics. But people still do these things despite all the warnings, education, etc., so having the stickers all over the car would just be a way for the car makers to not only alert/educate buyers/owner but also to avoid liability. When Johnny Racer takes his week old Zoomer 2000X back to the dealer and complains that it won't rev over 4000rpms, all the dealer has to do is ask Johnny "Did you read those stickers that you ripped off the dashboard, steering wheel, windshield, and gas filler cap? Did you read the owner's manual?" Case closed. Johnny drives conservatively until the break-in period is reached, then he can trash his new car all he wants and when the dealership pulls his ECU history and finds out that he's been shifting at 9000 rpm, "Sorry Mr. Racer, you're fucked!" So, to sum it up, if they want people like Johnny Racer (and there's some of Johnny Racer in everyone that owns a FR-S/BRZ), to abide by their 'breakin' suggestions, take away the choice to not use common sense and limit the car electronically. |
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I would have taken it to the dealership that day. Yet you, on the other hand, was too pre-occupied with the badge that you ignored it and now it's back and the car won't even run at all. You could have saved yourself all this trouble if only you had the brains to do the right thing the first time. Fortunately, you're still under warranty and I believe you get free towing service as well. I hope you get your car fixed under warranty... Good luck... |
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Taking away choice limit the car electronically? That is insane. If it was "common sense" the FR-S would not exist. We would all be driving hybrids. We would have two real back seats. We would all be driving automatics. Taking away choice is going down a slippery slope. |
Not only does OP's story piss me off but his asinine grammar really rustles my jimmies.
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I wonder two things from this post. 1) How would this "smart" ECU know if you are in an emergency and NEED to go over 4k, like the manual states. 2) How many money do you think they would have to pay off from accidents happening because the driver could not avoid a situation due to the car only going up to 4K RPM.. I wonder, I wonder... :slap: |
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You want manufacturers to dictate the way people use their products. You want manufacturers to be able to track the way those products are used. All because some kid taking his car to redline off the dealership lot takes that motor from a 250k mile lifespan to a 240k mile lifespan? The car will be so far out of warranty by the time the break-in style really matters that manufacturers have ZERO interest in alienating buyers by trying to control their behavior." I never said I was in favor of it. I'm not, but it would be a way for them to force owners to abide by their break-in suggestions. I'm not in favor of seat belt laws, helmet laws, airbags or the other safety equipment that is forced on us. These items are on modern cars due to insurance company lobbying politicians to make them mandatory. Very few, if anyone begged the car manufacturers to force us to add these these things to our cars, but they are there anyway "for our own safety". So, to sum it up, if they want people like Johnny Racer (and there's some of Johnny Racer in everyone that owns a FR-S/BRZ), to abide by their 'breakin' suggestions, take away the choice to not use common sense and limit the car electronically. FWIW, I use seat belts and helmets religiously because I value my safety but I think as an adult, it should be MY choice to do so and not a mandate (kids are a different matter). Another thing, if you disagree, that's fine, you can still be polite and civil - you don't have to be a fucking asshole with your response. But maybe that's just the way you are - a fucking asshole. |
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I reved well past 4000 rpms to ensure proper seating of my piston rings about 60 miles into ownership, I also did it gradually, and not suddenly, and after 200 miles hitting 4000 on decel and accell, then 50000 on decel and accel and yes, I even enjoyed getting to 7000 revs, but did so for a moment, on a warm motor, and then babied it for the next few hundred miles before redline became an every day thing, as it is now after 1500 miles. that said, I suspect more a mechanical issue than a user error, tho I bet it helped a bunch, its not a coincidence ya beat it and it broke the oil flow characteristics, shock loads, etc differ greatly between the two prove yourself methods... not that dyno pulls on a sub 500 mile motor is much smarter :popcorn: FRSOWNER, take it EASY |
jesus christ there is a lot of retarded advice on the scion side of this forum. FFS...nothing you did caused the problem. The car had an issue that would have happened whether you did your burnout or not.
Black box type information cannot be legally used to deny warranty coverage, and isn't stored for more than a short period of time anyway (snapshot type stuff before an accident occurs, etc) |
damn...
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