OFT Basic tuning procedure

[HSayaovong]

Update: 4/10/2014
Links to tuning info from Koadname47

Originally Posted by Kodename47

3/4 months ago I was in the same boat as you lot but I took time to go and look into as much info as I could.

The problem with a basic tuning procedure is that everyone likes to have a different approach. What I like to do may not be the best way, but it works for me.

Go here:
http://www.romraider.com/forum/viewt...hp?f=33&t=5299
Direct Link - https://sites.google.com/site/asubie...gguide/ver-1-0

Then look through this:
http://www.romraider.com/forum/viewforum.php?f=33

Then read some of this:
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=30418
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=57279
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=53064

Have a trawl through that. The How To section on Romraider is pretty good as there are a lot of newbie questions on there.

--------------
UPDATE 4/8/2014:
Just a quick update on the information that have been given by forum members and how I have been implementing them. This is not meant to serve as a means to an end guild. If you choose to follow these direction to tune your car, you do so at your own risk.,,^_^

*If there is enough request for pictures with instruction then maybe i'll do some step by step picture tutorials.

1:I used romraider to advance ignition timing: Romraider along with the required FRS XML definition can be downloaded from http://www.openflashtablet.com/produ...ads/index.html.
By adujusting base timing B under ignition timing-Advance around .5degree at a time and log for knock. Caution:you should leave base A alone as it is the fail safe map. I've been able to add on around 11hp over the stock OTS maps, of course these whp that I've logged only on Virtual Dyno so I can not guarantee the accuracy of the VD compared to a real Dyno, But my logs are done on the same HWY (very dead Hwy) and I'm only comparing my original stock ots tune of 169whp to the 180whp VD readout that I got from logging.
tip: so far I've been able to advance up to 2.5 degree with minimal MAF scaling.

2:As far as the adjusting the AFR, it appears that the fueling-Primary Open Loop that I was doing didn't do much. so I just reverted back to stock setting. haven't tried to adjust the closed loop fueling yet, but I will probably mess with it in the future if needed,<-this should yield better result since the closed loop runs off the o2 sensor.

3.adjusting MAF scaling will be updated when I can come up with a way to do it in layman's term.

So far that's all I have been able to gather, as more information becomes available to me I'll try to update it, also if you see anything that is inaccurate, please let me know so that I can revise this post.


-------4/5/2014-----------------------------------------
I have no previous tuning background so
Just to clarify, what exactly am I suppose to log with OFT?
So far Ive just been slowly leaning the arf and advancing the ignition timing while keeping an eye on my logs for knock but I'm not sure if I'm looking in the right places. Seems like adv multiplier is always at 1 no matter how lean i get...does that mean that it hasn't detected knock and haven't pulled timing yet? So it should be safe to keep advancing? 2nd.ly KC correction is always at 0 degree. While KC learned only jumps around when there's load. .which i believe it's normal.

Just wanted more insight on what you guys are doing and what are your procedures... and if what I'm doing is correct .
I'm not looking to be a professional tuner, just looking for basic tuning diy procedures. Thanks in advance

And yes I'm aware that theres an official thread here http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=46468

[Apoc]

Originally Posted by HSayaovong

So far Ive just been slowly leaning the arf

leave the arf alone

[wparsons]

You shouldn't be playing with AFR and ignition timing unless you're on a dyno as well. You could easily be losing power instead of gaining power, and making the tune less safe.

Ideally you'll tune for maximum power, then richen it up a hair and back off the timing a slight bit to make it safer on the street.

[Kodename47]

Simple, if you don't know what you're doing then I'd advise leaving it well alone.

Getting the MAF scaling correct so that you're consistently hitting the target AFRs is my starting point. Then you know the LTFT isn't trying to fight you.

Where are you changing the AFR and timing?

[Createddeleted]

Originally Posted by Kodename47

Simple, if you don't know what you're doing then I'd advise leaving it well alone.

[HSayaovong]

Originally Posted by Kodename47

Simple, if you don't know what you're doing then I'd advise leaving it well alone.

Getting the MAF scaling correct so that you're consistently hitting the target AFRs is my starting point. Then you know the LTFT isn't trying to fight you.

Where are you changing the AFR and timing?

I've been altering the ignition timing advance in base timing A and base timing B and bringing up the Primary open loop fueling table.
currently at WOT my afr is at 12.1~12.8 from 4k to redline.. adv multiplier is steady at 1 and kc correction seems to be steady at 0 degree. LTFT and STFT are hovering around +/- 5%

I understand how dangerous it is and I thank you all for advising me to leave what i dont know alone... But with that said.. you'll never learn anything if you don't explore, and as long as I am doing it in a slow and coherent pace I don't see the danger.. That's why I've posted this thread asking for more help so that I dont blow anything up..

edit: here's a log of my current wot run http://www.datazap.me/u/hsayaovong/9...6-7-9-10-11-12

Originally Posted by wparsons

You shouldn't be playing with AFR and ignition timing unless you're on a dyno as well. You could easily be losing power instead of gaining power, and making the tune less safe.

Ideally you'll tune for maximum power, then richen it up a hair and back off the timing a slight bit to make it safer on the street.

I understand what you mean, but I only have access to a straight road.. so I've been adjusting and logging my adjustment and comparing the result on virtual dyno for any gains or losses.. each new adjustment get's 4 or more wot pulls in 4th gear to make sure that if there is any changes it is consistent.

[wparsons]

If your STFT and LTFT are off by ~5% or more you'll probably want to rescale the MAF to get that closer to perfect. If you want to look at that, you'll need to log AFR, AFR commanded, MAF voltage, IAT and fuel system status.

If the MAF scale is off, whatever AFR your tune is commanding won't be what is actually coming out until the trims stabilize, which for WOT will take a while.

[EAGLE5]

Depending on the fuel, it's possible to keep advancing timing until you destroy your bottom end. Unless you have a dyno, I wouldn't play with that. Like others said, you can adjust your MAF scaling but you shouldn't play with timing unless you're on a dyno.

[HSayaovong]

Originally Posted by jsimon7777

Depending on the fuel, it's possible to keep advancing timing until you destroy your bottom end. Unless you have a dyno, I wouldn't play with that. Like others said, you can adjust your MAF scaling but you shouldn't play with timing unless you're on a dyno.

Even with "infinite octane" fuel wouldn't you get knock once you advance the timing so much so that this fuel is ignited to early before top dead center? Which would produce knock snd if you log for knocks and keep away from advancing to far how would you destroy your bottom end? (I'm not challenging your advice, I'm trying to understand my own understanding on the subject).

To my understanding without a proper aftermarket wideband o2 sensor most of my afr teaching is probably inaccurate anyways, that's the main reason why I should be monitoring for knock, correct?

[Kodename47]

@HSayaovong what I meant was where in those tables? Flat advancing/leaning out the whole table is not ideal.

Have you any idea what AFR you're eventually aiming for? The problem is that if your LTFT start taking fuel out you will run leaner than desired and that's not good.nif you want to do this, look on Romraider for basics on the ECU. There's some really helpful info here too as well as NASIOC. Don't just look for OFT based info, any Subaru tuning references will do. Just just walk into this blind, do your homework.

[Kodename47]

Originally Posted by HSayaovong

Even with "infinite octane" fuel wouldn't you get knock once you advance the timing so much so that this fuel is ignited to early before top dead center? Which would produce knock snd if you log for knocks and keep away from advancing to far how would you destroy your bottom end? (I'm not challenging your advice, I'm trying to understand my own understanding on the subject).

To my understanding without a proper aftermarket wideband o2 sensor most of my afr teaching is probably inaccurate anyways, that's the main reason why I should be monitoring for knock, correct?

Yes the knock sensor should keep you relatively safe but if you're only monitoring KC then you're not seeing what's happening at WOT. Any idea how your knock learn data looks like over multiple pulls? You only have 1 pull in that posted example.

[steve99]

Mate Had a kook at you log , unless you have hacked away at the "Knock Control Advance Max A" table you have -1.5 to -2.0 knock correction happening between 6400-6700 that's the chunk out of your kc learned

http://www.datazap.me/u/hsayaovong/9...1274&mark=1040

you say you have been adjusting Base Timing A and Base Timing B. As far as i know Base timing A is for limp home mode or AVCS fail and not generally used.

You might want to read this post , i'm not guaranteeing its 100% correct but I think I should give you some more useful info

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=61820

It might be worth considering an E-tune from the OFT boys (since you already have OFT) its $200 and they will explain the changes they make. You will still learn and it will be safe, lots cheaper than than a damaged engine.

I am actually considering this option myself.

[Grip Ronin]

kc learned is your advance table. you probably shouldn't be messing with your base timing tables because one is you safe mode. I believe its A. ive only adjusted the timing advance which applies ones the ecu says its safe to (operating temperature and no knock present)

[HSayaovong]

Originally Posted by Kodename47

@HSayaovong what I meant was where in those tables? Flat advancing/leaning out the whole table is not ideal.

Have you any idea what AFR you're eventually aiming for? The problem is that if your LTFT start taking fuel out you will run leaner than desired and that's not good.nif you want to do this, look on Romraider for basics on the ECU. There's some really helpful info here too as well as NASIOC. Don't just look for OFT based info, any Subaru tuning references will do. Just just walk into this blind, do your homework.

My target afr that I would like to have at wot is around 12.8~13.

I've been adding timing to both A and B when there's more then .8 g/rev load, <---which from what everyone is saying I should leave B alone because it's the failsafe map.

another weird thing that I've noticed is that if i increased my AFR beyound a certain point in the Primary open loop fueling table above .8 g/rev , the ecu seems to automatically add positive fuel trim which increased my afr to 11.xx:1 at wot, compared to a less aggressive map which produce around 12.8:1 AFR..
*although my afr command is set higher, it's actually running richer.. weird.... and i what area can i correct for this change

Originally Posted by steve99

Mate Had a kook at you log , unless you have hacked away at the "Knock Control Advance Max A" table you have -1.5 to -2.0 knock correction happening between 6400-6700 that's the chunk out of your kc learned

so if i see the kc learned drop like it did from 6400-6700, what exactly does it represent? should i be retarding in this area?

Originally Posted by Grip Ronin

kc learned is your advance table. you probably shouldn't be messing with your base timing tables because one is you safe mode. I believe its A. ive only adjusted the timing advance which applies ones the ecu says its safe to (operating temperature and no knock present)

so only adjust base table A, got it.


here's the current full log of the map that is running in the car atm http://www.datazap.me/u/hsayaovong/full?log=0&data=1-7