12-21-2017, 10:19 PM | #57 |
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Made some progress on the AN lines today.
Earls 20AN thermostat housing Fragola low profile fittings and Russell’s pro classic II hose Pulled the outlet off the waterpump and pressed in a CBM Motorsports 20AN outlet with red loctite Going 10 AN compression fittings on the heater core. They stick out a bit more than I wanted so I’ll back cut the fittings to get them closer to the firewall Also working on four point steam pipe lines using Earls steam pipe fittings and 4AN lines Deciding on if I want to run the lines over or under the wire harness Fuel lines are 8AN for feed and 6AN for return I’m running the lines up through the frame rail to keep them away from exhaust heat Open up a hole under the car to feed the lines up into the frame rail Lines come out under the brake booster Radium Fuel filter is under the car. I recessed a hump under the driver seat to make an area for the fuel filter to sit up and out of the way...per @DustinS advice I’ll make some sort of cover/skid plate for it as well. The factory covers will go back on as well. Last edited by ILLSMOQ; 12-21-2017 at 11:10 PM. |
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12-23-2017, 11:02 PM | #58 |
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Cool build. Liking all the pics.
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The Following User Says Thank You to Stevemode For This Useful Post: | ILLSMOQ (12-24-2017) |
12-24-2017, 12:38 AM | #59 |
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01-18-2018, 11:52 PM | #60 |
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thankyou for posting your build so far, it is making me very excited to try this with another 86 in the future and follow your lead.
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The Following User Says Thank You to Surok For This Useful Post: | ILLSMOQ (01-19-2018) |
01-19-2018, 11:21 AM | #61 | |
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Quote:
Another option is to build my own jig out of PVC and have GP Headers build a set for me. At that point they would be exactly what I design. https://www.gpheaders.com/products/custom-headers/ I’m pretty close to making a move here, I’m hoping to see something from Vorshlag real soon but if not then I’ll go with one of these other options. Back burner aside, I have got a bunch of little projects almost finished. AN lines for everything 20AN water pump outlet, pull the old one and press in the new one with red lock Tite. It can be welded too. 10AN heater hose compression fittings. I back cut the fittings to get them as far onto the core inlet and outlets as possible. They flare opens bit more near the fire wall 10AN off the water pump. Tapped for 3/8” and 1/2” pipe thread heat sheilded the transmission tunnel, Setrab 65 oil cooler is installed, sikky oil pan is on the motor, the windage tray and the pan had to be modified a bit to fit with the stroker crank, 1/4” shims are added for the tray to clear the crank but that moves the tray closer to the oil pan and it hit. My AC lines kit is made too, just waiting for them to arrive. Anthony Gonzales made them, @DustinS referred me to him. I even bought a new trunk, took some time to figure out the paint scheme, going with this |
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01-19-2018, 12:31 PM | #62 |
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How do I hop on this ac line build?
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01-20-2018, 12:48 PM | #63 |
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Looking really good. Let me ask about that spacer. Did Sikky make that for you,,, or did you make it??? Will be reaching out to your AC guy. When you get yours in can you show a pic of the block that attaches to the firewall/expansion valve?? Thanks!!!
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2015 FR-S - One Day I'll Finish The Swap |
01-20-2018, 01:53 PM | #64 | |
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Quote:
Sure thing on the AC stuff |
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01-21-2018, 11:08 AM | #65 |
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01-26-2018, 10:01 PM | #66 |
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Heat shielding on the transmission tunnel and gas tank is finished.
Ready to put the engine and transmission back in. McCleod twin disk RXT clutch and aluminum flywheel. Reading the instructions. It’s recommend to balance the clutch assembly as a unit....damnit. $1500 clutch and I still may need to balance it. Called McLeod, “each component is balanced, but yes, it’s recommended to have the whole assembly checked as one unit and balanced if needed.” Trying to make sure everything works as perfect as possible..... Clutch assembly was 11 grams out of balance. Motor and trans is going back in tomorrow. |
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01-27-2018, 08:32 PM | #67 |
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Clutch on.
Whole thing bolted together and going back in. Engine, clutch and transmission halve to be together and go in from the top. With the engine in and the clutch installed there isn’t enough room to get the transmission in from the bottom. In a bit and lower a bit, in a bit and lower a bit...... Wasn’t a good situation to be snapping pictures so I only got two. And it’s in. Good room for the oil cooler lines Pan/rack clearance is a few mm, just atcthe pan brace, I can grind it if needed but I don’t think it will ever get closer unless the mounts sag. Front sump fits perfectly, covers will fit just fine. My heater core connections need a bit of a rethink |
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01-27-2018, 08:47 PM | #68 |
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I’ll order up a few standard radius AN hose ends and see if I can do something with them. Maybe I can bend them to work.
http://www.russellperformance.com/mc...w-swivel.shtml |
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01-29-2018, 05:29 PM | #69 |
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Starter hit the bell housing
Fixed that Installed the front steering rack chassis brace Tight fit and I had to dimple it to clearer the bell housing bolts Everything clears but not with very much room to spare Here’s what I’m working with for room for headers Time to start building out of PVC Trunk and third brake light done too |
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01-29-2018, 06:19 PM | #70 |
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Clutch hydraulics are done too
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The Following User Says Thank You to ILLSMOQ For This Useful Post: | Sportsguy83 (01-30-2018) |
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