What are the must-do's on a basic motor build?

[SmsAlSuwaidi]

Originally Posted by COO86L

So basically still advised to change pistons from stock?
That's super helpful though, thank you!

Yes

[xkalelx]

I heard some interesting things at a local shop that has build a handful of FA20s . They said that when they torque the casehalfs down with new ARP hardware, they actually are twisting the block somewhat. Where seeing typical bearing clearances of .0025 on a similar EJ25X, the FA20 has a really tight .0010 bearing clearance, and after torquing, it can get thrown off by as much as .0005 .

The comment I heard was, "We haven't had any come back that were blown, but we dont feel confident building them because the block just isnt as robust of a casting as other motors. Anything more than 400-500whp, you should be looking at a motor swap"

I wonder what the findings of other motor builders would show as far as bearing tolerances after assembly.

Originally Posted by D_Thissen

Would ARP head studs, BC I beam connecting rods and Kelford valve springs be sufficient for someone shooting for <300whp

My understanding is that the stock motor can handle up to 300whp just fine. Plenty of stock block guys running 7-8psi on here. North of that, things start getting sketchy unless youre running e85, then you can extend that number out a little bit. Hope that helps.

Originally Posted by SmsAlSuwaidi

I have 5 motors under my belt, 2 stock, 3 built ( I've blown the stockers and one that's built) I'm making 600whp with stock CR and forged internals with the above parts.

Jeeeesus christ! hahaha. Thats crazy!

[xsnapshot]

Originally Posted by xkalelx

I heard some interesting things at a local shop that has build a handful of FA20s . They said that when they torque the casehalfs down with new ARP hardware, they actually are twisting the block somewhat. Where seeing typical bearing clearances of .0025 on a similar EJ25X, the FA20 has a really tight .0010 bearing clearance, and after torquing, it can get thrown off by as much as .0005 .

The comment I heard was, "We haven't had any come back that were blown, but we dont feel confident building them because the block just isnt as robust of a casting as other motors. Anything more than 400-500whp, you should be looking at a motor swap"

I wonder what the findings of other motor builders would show as far as bearing tolerances after assembly.

I'd be curious about that as well. Never hard anything like that before.

[xsnapshot]

Originally Posted by SmsAlSuwaidi

I have 5 motors under my belt, 2 stock, 3 built ( I've blown the stockers and one that's built)

Best combo for a daily "budget build"

Rods
Pistons
ARO hardware
Valve springs
OEM bearings ( haven't tested kings yet )

I'm making 600whp with stock CR and forged internals with the above parts.

Well that's about 250whp more than I'll ever want to make lol. This car is enough for me to handle already!

Good to know though. I'll just keep my eye out for some of this stuff to go on sale.

I guess the other question is what is better. To buy the parts individually, or source a built shortblock from Moto-East or something. I just don't trust anyone local to me to build the engine correctly. Down here in TN is mostly just a bunch of trucks or big muscle car power. It's not often you see guys building imports down here.

The other part of the equation is what state my stock block will be in upon it failing. Will I have a new window in my block, destroy a valve, spin a bearing....

[ChrisD]

I'm definitely not an expert as this is the first engine I've ever had built, but did a bit of asking around before getting my engine built recently, and in the end I went with:

con rods (Carrillo)
pistons (Carrillo, 10:1 compression ratio)
valve springs (Kelford Cams)
oil pump gear (Reimax)
head stud bolts (ARP)
head gaskets (Cosworth)
stock bearings

Also, not engine related, but a few tuning shops mentioned that the CV joints on the rear axles died when they started pushing higher power so I got the 600 bhp rated stronger axles from TheDriveShaftShop. Obviously also using a stronger clutch as the stock one won't take much.

I was advised not to bother with the ARP main block bolts, and you don't need to split the block to change the pistons and rods so its not like you'd be replacing them as part of the build anyway.

[-Phil]

Motor building, Can be varied in so many ways it all depends on your plans with the motor. We have had people who were stock power opt for only replacing the pistons and rods before.

[xsnapshot]

Originally Posted by Moto-Phil

Motor building, Can be varied in so many ways it all depends on your plans with the motor. We have had people who were stock power opt for only replacing the pistons and rods before.

What would you recommend if all the power I want would be whatever the JRSC (C30) and high-boost pulley could make?

Surprised someone at stock power would replace anything at all. Did they have a failure at stock power levels attributed to weak rods and pistons?

[-Phil]

Originally Posted by xsnapshot

What would you recommend if all the power I want would be whatever the JRSC (C30) and high-boost pulley could make?

Surprised someone at stock power would replace anything at all. Did they have a failure at stock power levels attributed to weak rods and pistons?

They had an oiling issue which ended up taking out the entire bottom end. they ended up also adding a reimax oil pump to the build, for the JRSC c30 high boost pulley and e85 I'd recommend using the following

ARP head studs
Reimax oil pump
King bearings ( cheaper option Oem )
Carrilo rods (CARR) - You could get away with a cheaper option like Skunk2)
CP or JE pistons 10.5 Compression (je pistons cheaper)
GSC springs
Cometic head gasket
New OEM seals

[xwd]

The Carillo rods are nice but plenty of people have had luck in other cars running much cheaper options. If you are looking to make 500+WHP then by all means use the Carillos. Does anyone in the US carry the Reimax pump gears?

[SmsAlSuwaidi]

Originally Posted by Moto-Phil

They had an oiling issue which ended up taking out the entire bottom end. they ended up also adding a reimax oil pump to the build, for the JRSC c30 high boost pulley and e85 I'd recommend using the following

ARP head studs
Reimax oil pump
King bearings ( cheaper option Oem )
Carrilo rods (CARR) - You could get away with a cheaper option like Skunk2)
CP or JE pistons 10.5 Compression (je pistons cheaper)
GSC springs
Cometic head gasket
New OEM seals

Have you tried the Remax oil pump ? If not I'd stay away, I think a built motor failed from it

My new motor has way more power and the stock pump is sufficient (for my usage ).

[-Phil]

Originally Posted by SmsAlSuwaidi

Have you tried the Remax oil pump ? If not I'd stay away, I think a built motor failed from it

My new motor has way more power and the stock pump is sufficient (for my usage ).

I wouldn't recommend it if we didn't use it, we have had no issues with it Hopefully in the next month we will have some comparisons on it.

[-Phil]

Originally Posted by SmsAlSuwaidi

Have you tried the Remax oil pump ? If not I'd stay away, I think a built motor failed from it

My new motor has way more power and the stock pump is sufficient (for my usage ).

Link me that thread though i'd like to see it

best regards,
-Phil

[ChrisD]

Originally Posted by Moto-Phil

I wouldn't recommend it if we didn't use it, we have had no issues with it Hopefully in the next month we will have some comparisons on it.

Yeah I'm surprised at his comment too. I've seen a few other people using the Reimax oil pump on here and not heard of any complaints. Plus I can't see how it could make your engine fail, as its simply a replacement gear that's very similar to the OEM one but just lets a bit more oil through each time. I've got it in my engine now but haven't put many miles on it yet so I guess I can't comment, but so far no problems