Jackson Racing Rotrex Supercharger System Info and Discussion

[Ralph Spoilsport]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

It is, in the sense that it's regulated by the coolant...

The coolant in your engine is regulated. The coolant in your radiator is not. So a guy in Canada (eh?) commuting to work in Winter would see his oil chilled quite undesirably.

Water entering the radiator does so at the temperature of the water outlet manifold, but under low load, that water flow is really small and it's cooling rapidly as soon as it hits the radiator.

[glamcem]

Originally Posted by OrbitalEllipses

And the car comes with nothing stock...

In any case, I'd prefer the "OEM" cooler in-line with an air to oil cooler if that makes sense. The problem with coolers is that they are too efficient (see: winter) and this engine already has a cold oil issue as well as a hot oil issue - either a higher temp thermostat, a piece of cardboard, or the two cooler solution I speak of is what I'd be interested in.

Or this cooler with a more efficient radiator would also work and be less complex while still providing both adequate cooling and heating.

Exactly, I believe the OEM cooler should work as a nice "regulator" and would be enough with a better radiator. If the top mounted intercooled turbo FA20 engine works fine in desert with OEM radiator, it should also work fine with a bigger radiator and a FMIC'd Rotrex unit.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by glamcem

Exactly, I believe the OEM cooler should work as a nice "regulator" and would be enough with a better radiator. If the top mounted intercooled turbo FA20 engine works fine in desert with OEM radiator, it should also work fine with a bigger radiator and a FMIC'd Rotrex unit.

A better radiator isn't going to keep your coolant any cooler under normal circumstances.

Have you guys seen how little the contact area is?

[Calum]

Originally Posted by Ralph Spoilsport

The coolant in your engine is regulated. The coolant in your radiator is not. So a guy in Canada (eh?) commuting to work in Winter would see his oil chilled quite undesirably.

Water entering the radiator does so at the temperature of the water outlet manifold, but under low load, that water flow is really small and it's cooling rapidly as soon as it hits the radiator.

You might just be right. I was thinking the water flow being so little would prevent the oil from being cooled further. But the water sitting in the radiator is going to cool while it sits in there and thus cool the oil as well. The temperature difference created by the oil heating the water would likely be enough to cause the water in the radiator to flow internally, ensuring the oil is cooled even more.

Thanks for the eye opener, eh.

[FAER]

anyone used the larger Rotrex unit? If so, what power is it making

[sw20kosh]

So we know the ecu pulls back at 240 F oil temps. Does it pull back power at the lower end of the spectrum too? Anyone know this temperature?

[OrbitalEllipses]

Originally Posted by sw20kosh

So we know the ecu pulls back at 240 F oil temps. Does it pull back power at the lower end of the spectrum too? Anyone know this temperature?

I can't verify what the engine control logic is, but oil that is TOO cold isn't good either - I think we can all agree on that. It's about the middle path, as Aristotle said.

[sw20kosh]

Originally Posted by OrbitalEllipses

I can't verify what the engine control logic is, but oil that is TOO cold isn't good either - I think we can all agree on that. It's about the middle path, as Aristotle said.

Sweet spot is? 180 - 230F OIL?

[Poodles]

Originally Posted by OrbitalEllipses

I can't verify what the engine control logic is, but oil that is TOO cold isn't good either - I think we can all agree on that. It's about the middle path, as Aristotle said.

Yep, not hot enough and you don't boil off the water and fuel that gets into the oil. You also don't set off the additive pack until it's warm (additive pack stuff could take up an entire other thread)


Keep in mind that any thermostatic oil cooler is never truly closed all the way (how else would you fill the heat exchanger?), same goes for the coolant thermostat.


Factory oil to water coolers are used all the time because they're cheap. While they work, there's a reason race cars run thermostatic air-oil coolers...

[FullTuneZN6]

i read somewhere that there is a 10psi pulley....is that the factory pulley or the upgraded? @*LongFella are you running the perring overpipe too with your exhaust setup? thanks

[4032pauln]

Originally Posted by FullTuneZN6

i read somewhere that there is a 10psi pulley....is that the factory pulley or the upgraded? @*LongFella are you running the perring overpipe too with your exhaust setup? thanks

It is the factory pulley

[*LongFella]

Originally Posted by FullTuneZN6

i read somewhere that there is a 10psi pulley....is that the factory pulley or the upgraded? @*LongFella are you running the perring overpipe too with your exhaust setup? thanks

I believe the kit is stock at 10 psi. Don't quote me though, I'm not 100%.

Nope on the Perrin over pipe. I will eventually do the whole exhaust including headers, but I'm waiting "patiently" as CSG Mike recommended. I figured if this secret is really good, which I'm sure it is, I'll spend the money on it...upgrade the entire exhaust too, and have a custom tune done

[*LongFella]

Oh and don't forget I want to eventually run e85

[4032pauln]

Originally Posted by *LongFella

I believe the kit is stock at 10 psi. Don't quote me though, I'm not 100%.

Nope on the Perrin over pipe. I will eventually do the whole exhaust including headers, but I'm waiting "patiently" as CSG Mike recommended. I figured if this secret is really good, which I'm sure it is, I'll spend the money on it...upgrade the entire exhaust too, and have a custom tune done

You should gut out ur headers in the meantime, it real easy and quick, and ull get extra power