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| Scion FR-S / Toyota 86 GT86 General Forum The place to start for the Scion FR-S / Toyota 86 | GT86 |
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#1 |
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Someone tried to steal my wheels. Can't remove wheel locks.
While working overnight in a shady area, someone tried to steal my wheels (not sure who would want stock wheels...). I had wheel locks from the dealership that saved my wheels, but now I am unable to remove them.
The wheel lock is loose up to a certain point and then it can no longer turn. I'm not sure how to go about removing them and I was quoted $160 at the dealership to have it done there. Anyone have any idea how to get them off with minimal damage to my wheels and stud? ![]() ![]() Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Tapatalk |
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#2 |
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Ooo... Looks like a McGard lock without the key slot?
You might have to take it off like a thief might take it off; freeze it with Freon and then whack/crack it with a chisel? Although that might just be urban legend... |
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#3 |
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Well, back in the day, when we had a situation like that, we would squirt a bit of kerosene on the "frozen" (or battered up) nut ......... have a beer while it sank in, then fire up a blow torch and heat the nut (to expand it a bit).
Then take a cold chisel and big hammer, make as notch in a counter clock wise fashion ...... and pound on it till the nut broke loose. Then grab onto it with some vice grips and spin it off. If that didn't work, we would have two more beers and then split the nut in half ..... humfrz |
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#4 |
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Thupercharged
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Cobalt bit, steady pressure, lots of coolant
Should be able to get through the stud, the lock should fall off after that. You would then need a stud installed, but should be cheaper than 160 at the dealership. If the lock is loose, but gets stuck when trying to remove... could be damaged threads from the theft attempt, the head of the stud could be mushroomed.... and you would need a press to install a new stud anyways. If you have some thinwall sockets, try putting one over the wheel lock if you have room and whack it on with a hammer. Cheap 12 point sockets are nice for that, make sure its slightly too small to go on easily. Then, try backing it out with a ratchet. Alternatively, find a cheaper place to do the work. Some tire shops might do it, call around and get prices.
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#5 | |
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Thupercharged
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__________________
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Vortech V3 11psi Revworks UEL - PLM Overpipe - MOTIV catted frontpipe - Invidia Q300 2019 Series.Grey STI - Stage1+ SF |
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| The Following 9 Users Say Thank You to DJCarbine For This Useful Post: | brandonblt2 (12-01-2015), finch1750 (12-04-2015), humfrz (11-30-2015), meWant (12-04-2015), MisterSheep (12-04-2015), Packofcrows (11-30-2015), rhythmM (12-09-2015), Toyarzee (12-01-2015), Ultramaroon (12-01-2015) |
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#6 |
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hey you, yeah you <3
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24 ok?
all "haha's" asided, My dad had to buy a special nut remover tool that vibrated the whole wheel. He ended up bending one of the metal rods(?), but it worked! This was in his old trucker days. Asked my dad and he says he cant remember tool but he had to deform the nut with a chisel first. [ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vkyrixli_Ac"]How To Get Bad Lug Nuts Off the Wheel - YouTube[/ame] ???????????????????????????????????
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#7 |
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Sounds like the threads are borked, I tried to replace my studs last weekend and it was a struggle but it got done with a little help, might be able to find an independent shop who can get it down to $100 or a little less but I wouldn't expect to spend less than that to remove the lock and replace the stud and lug/lock by a professional. Maybe post up in the local section for a shop recommendation or someone who's willing to help who's done their own studs?
$160 from the dealership isn't the worst deal in the world, about $20 of that is parts so about an hours worth of labor for someone who know's what's up and a little profit on top. Here's the DIY for stud replacement. http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=21563 Edit: Great video above shows how useful a wheel lock set really is. |
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#8 |
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http://www.harborfreight.com/9-pc-38...set-67894.html
Worked for me the two times I've used it. |
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#9 | |
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Bite the bullet and let somebody else mess with it. The odds of screwing something up outweigh the benefits of DIY in this case.
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#10 |
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+10000. If you haven't done it before then I'd recommend letting someone else be responsible for it. $160 is obviously a decent chunk of cash for the situation but I'd rather pay that then damage the wheel or even myself. Don't think there are many more solutions other than the ones that were proposed above anyway, but I'd just bite the bullet, pay someone to do it so the liability is more with them.
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#11 | |
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#12 |
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[ame="http://www.amazon.com/Sunex-2840-Piece-Hubcap-Removal/dp/B000R6U084"]Sunex 2840 9 Piece Hubcap and Wheel Lock Removal Kit - Sockets - Amazon.com[/ame]
This is the set I have at work. Works perfect for McGard style locks. You do need an impact though. |
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#13 |
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With a MIG welder, I'd have that thing off in 20 minutes flat. I'd clean it up to remove any chroming or anything on it (probably just with sandpaper by hand), then I'd take a shitty piece of A36 and weld it to it, and use that as a wrench. The heat from the welding itself would probably help a lot in loosening it up on its own.
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#14 | |
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__________________
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