Anyone had luck installing Perrin Crank Pulley on AT

[efactor84]

I was wondering if anyone has ran into this issue installing Perrin Crank Pulley on the FRS on an auto transmission. Ive tried and realize I couldn't install it like a manual like before and scratching my head with the auto tranny. I've looked at the crank pulley tools and look at the Perrrin Lightcrank Pulley and wonder how am I going to get this thing on. Any help will be appreciated.

[humfrz]

Do you have the "special tool" .... ??

"Originally Posted by mjsivee View Post

I have all the tools there is to install my new Perrin Crank pulley for my Scion Fr-S except for the special tool that Perrin says is required to install the new crank pulley for an automatic transmission car.

The quote in the instructions says "If car is equipped with automatic transmission pleace sonsult factory service manual. This will require a special tool that locks the flex plate from turning."



humfrz

[Weapon86]

My mechanic wired the starter directly on the battery with a trigger button. he placed the breaker bar on the bolt for the crank pulley then pushed the trigger. its a little scary to watch him install it, but its been almost a year since he installed it and i havent had any problem.

[efactor84]

Originally Posted by Weapon86

My mechanic wired the starter directly on the battery with a trigger button. he placed the breaker bar on the bolt for the crank pulley then pushed the trigger. its a little scary to watch him install it, but its been almost a year since he installed it and i havent had any problem.

Damn, that does sound scary. Be thinking the bolt would snap. I appreciate for the input. I'm gonna order the pulley tool and go from there

[Impureclient]

Wilmar W89208 Cam Pulley Holder is what I used.

I bought mine from Advance Auto and had my crank pulley out real quick. I didn't install a Perrin and rather a Circuit Werks 3 pc. set so, the the Perrin may not fit exactly like it did on mine. In that case it would be an adjustable one: look up "Universal Cam Adjuster".

Something like this: [ame="http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-38220-Universal-Cam-Adjuster/dp/B0002SQZPO"]Amazon.com: Lisle 38220 Universal Cam Adjuster: Automotive[/ame]

[humfrz]

Originally Posted by efactor84

Damn, that does sound scary. Be thinking the bolt would snap. I appreciate for the input. I'm gonna order the pulley tool and go from there

Well, OK, if you don't like rusty chain, just go right ahead and buy that new fangled, store bought tool .....


humfrz

[Wes]

you can get a chain wrench to lock the pulley in place while you tighten it.

[efactor84]

Originally Posted by Impureclient

Wilmar W89208 Cam Pulley Holder is what I used.

I bought mine from Advance Auto and had my crank pulley out real quick. I didn't install a Perrin and rather a Circuit Werks 3 pc. set so, the the Perrin may not fit exactly like it did on mine. In that case it would be an adjustable one: look up "Universal Cam Adjuster".

Something like this: Amazon.com: Lisle 38220 Universal Cam Adjuster: Automotive

I like that idea better than using the crank pulley tool. What areas in the engine did you have to uncover in order to use the cam pulley holder? This may help the issue with Perrin not having holes in its crank pulley and making the process go a lot smoother.

[Impureclient]

I disconnected the airbox and the inlet hose from the throttle body and moved it up and to the left out of the way. Everything is easy to work on from there.
Those adjustable cam pulley tools seem like they should fit between the slots of the Perrin pulley. The nubs at the end are for sure smaller than the Wilmar tool I used.
The triangular slots seem pretty close, slightly smaller, in size to the round holes that were on my Circuit werks one if you look at the pics.
Worst case, you just grind the two nubs on the pulley tool down a little to fit inside the slots of the Perrin one. The nubs on the Wilmar tool are 5/8" and can be ground down to 7/16". It looks like the adjustable one nubs are 1/2" or less.


After the fact, knowing what I know now, I would just get a piece of flat bar steel like 18"x1"x1/8" and cut two holes in it at the end to coincide with the holes on the pulley. Then just thread two 1/2" bolts about 1.5" long through and lock it with nuts and you have the same tool for a couple bucks. If you can access that piece of steel and get it drilled out, I would just go that route and save $20-30.

[Koa]

All that work for no realizable gain.. :'

[Impureclient]

There are plenty of sources online that have ran their cars on a professional butt dyno and realized incredible gains from these.
Besides it's only around a hundred bucks for this, $75 for all three pulleys in my case, and because racecar.

[efactor84]

Originally Posted by Impureclient

There are plenty of sources online that have ran their cars on a professional butt dyno and realized incredible gains from these.
Besides it's only around a hundred bucks for this, $75 for all three pulleys in my case, and because racecar.

agreed because of race car. I have the other two pulleys installed from Perrin and I have also received my crank pulley tool from Company 23 in the mail. I'm just waiting on the perfect day to do it because I'm being busy with work and doing great things for my country.